Thanks aghin for all the help guys with a new plug shes up and runing, i have another question im trying to tune her and following the directions but being im a newbie, it would make more since to ask, whe she runs sounds good but seems my hand gets wet when i hold it behing the muffler is this normal the guy at the shop said a 2 oz tank world run out in about 5-6 min guesstamate with a .10 but seems to be more like3-4 min more fuel wasted on my arm not showering out but mabye and there no eexhast smoke at all is that cause shes new thanks jay

A 2-stroke will generally spit oil out the muffler. If you are getting an excessive amount of raw fuel though then it may be set a little bit rich.

Yep, you are going to have a lot of fuel residue coming out of the muffler. This is normal. What you want to do when tuning the engine is lean it out (turn the needle in, clockwise) until the engine hits it's max RPM's. Once it's running at it's max then you want to turn the needle back out 2-4 clicks. You are going to want to have a small trail of smoke coming out in the exhaust. If you do this the engine will last a lifetime, but it's even more important on a new engine that's still breaking-in. Also, you may not be able to see the smoke in the exhaust until the plane is in the air, then you'll be able to see the smoke against the sky.

Hope this helps


Ken

That oil on your arm is is a key portion of the cooling system in addition to just air moving past the cylinder fins.

Years ago, Model Airplane News published a technical tip on tuning engines, and it involved pinching off the fuel line just before the carb. I believe this was to get the idle mixture correct. Does anyone recall how that process worked?

Super Tigre still publish this method in their instructions... it involves running the engine at full throttle and pinching the fuel line. This will starve the engine and lean the mixture for a few seconds before it starts to die. You listen to the engine revs (or monitor them with a tacho) as the mixture leans out. If the revs go up before it dies the mixture's rich, if it just falters and dies the mixture's lean. You lean up the mixture one or two clicks at a time and give the engine a few revs between checks till it starts showing lean, then richen it up again till it just starts showing rich, which sets it near optimum while giving you a bit of leeway for altitude. Once you've set the high end you can use the same technique on your low end needle, but it takes a lot longer to have an effect (less fuel flow).

I use this technique on my two and four strokes - it works well.

Thanks Matt! Appreciate that a lot and will give it a try this week. I had that article in my flight box for years, but just could not remember it.

I tune differently.....at idle pinch the fuel line...the engine should continue to run for 5 or 6 seconds...start to rev up then begin to die....if it dies too soon, then the low end is lean, richen the low end and repeat the process..if it rus too long you're rich lean the low end and repeat.....only make adjustments at 1/8 of a turn at a time......once the low end is set go for the high end.....start out a bit richer than you like.....go to full throttle......start to lean you'll hear the engine pick up.....it will get to a point that the engine hits it's peak.....if you richen or lean it you can hear the engine slow down....go to peak and richen about a 1/4 of a turn...now the acid test.....run the engine at idle for a while......advance the throttle to full.....the engine should advance smoothly with no burbles.......if you have problems repeat the process......
Remember to make small adjustments..when finished you should see a slight smoke trail against a blue sky......its always better to run a tad rich than lean....good flyin

Great guys thank you all for your input I will do as you all said very nice work again and have agreat day !!! Jay

So, just for fun, what is this .10 flying in?...I have one in an .061 Sig Rascal...its only a 2 oz tank or so, dont know how many minutes I get, doesnt matter because I almost always deadstick in....but after changing to the .10 the nose drops a bit faster....Rog

Things to consider regarding exhaust smoke......
Different oils and additives influence the amount of smoke you'll get.
Your 0.10 engine puts out considerably less exhaust gases than a 0.40 or bigger engine so you may not see smoke even if it is there.

I have noticed what Ken wrote. In the air, especially at part throttle, the smoke is much more visible than when running the engine on the ground.

The .10 is in an boat the "windy" from dumas i wanted to get a feel for engines and how to tune and start and mantain them beforeI got a planes is always been my dream to fly planes now with my new jobI can affored to, im currenlty looking to buy a plane so if anyone has advice on what to start off on that would be awsome and a decint radio,Ihave a 2 channel now fromfutuba.I really wold like to get into thoses ducted fan jets but iI need to learn howto fly first !!! I really like prop planes like the p 51 mustang and theI cant spell it but the greman mess-sure- shmit (lol) sorry ) and that plane from the bah bah black sheep tv serise if anyone remembers bearcatI think . thanks again . andIm useing "cool power" synthedic fuel they told me at the shop I was good and I dint have torun any engine oil after useing it.

Jay

Well my sig .061 rascal is as floater of a plane as there is rudder/elevator/throttle...you could add ailerons if you wanted,,that is if you want to use the os.10 engine, if not than ,,everybody is gonna jump in here and say you need a .46 engine/trainer and 2.4 6 channel radio and a few hundred dollars worth of other stuff.....Rog

None of my OS engines [.10-.40] have ever needed much "needle work". The high speed needle might need a couple clicks one way or the other, but that is discovered when the plane is in the air during a high speed pass. There are many days when nothing gets touched, just "gas and go".
For the most part, the less you mess with these engines, the less you will have to mess with these engines. I see guys eagerly tweaking their engines right after start up before the engine has had a chance to fully warm up. ABC, ABN engines like to be fired up and ran hard ASAP, not left to sit and idle cold. Point the nose of the model straight up at WOT as part of your ground check, also. Let's see what this thing can do in a worse case before it has to in the air.
Seeing to it that all the screws on the engine are snug, the muffler, NVA and carb are snug and that the fuel tank and lines are well padded and in good shape is the main thing.

The Black Sheep flew the Corsair.

Here is RCKen's listing of trainers and second planes. It is a 'sticky' at the top of the Beginners forum
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4537845/tm.htm
ANY of the models listed as a trainer would be good for learning to fly.


Try to find local flyers and meet an instructor before buying anything. Put your zip code in the search box http://www.modelaircraft.org/clubsearch.aspx to find RC clubs in your area. Find out what kind of buddy box and trainer cords the instructor/club has.


Your last reply leads me to think you are open to getting a new engine that is suitable for the plane you choose. That will make it easier than trying to find a trainer plane suitable for a 0.10 engine.

As far as radios, I'm a firm believer in getting a basic radio for the first plane. You may decide the first plane is also the last plane so no reason to invest in "super radio" to begin. This is something to discuss with the instructor.

Thanks again but im not into clubs i like learning but with instructiuons like this forums

The pinch test as it's known is an excellent way to adjust the low speed needle. However, the main needle is best set as RCKen and a couple others suggested.

The needle really needs to be set for flight, and all the ground tricks fall short of predicting what mixture is going to work best with your engine, turning your prop, on your airplane once the airplane is in the air. Richening up 2-4 clicks from the peak ground rpm is absolutely good enough to get the airplane in the air with a safe initial setting that you can then judge IN THE AIR. All the tricks including the 2-4 clicks richer, really aren't the end of the process. How the plane flies after it's at altitude and your heartbeat is back to normal is what you THEN judge.

Bottom line is to get the plane in the air with what should be a safe needle setting and then see how the engine is running. You'll see experienced flyers maiden models and set 'em back down after a lap or two, adjust the needle a click or two, and go right back up. They're doing what you need to be prepared to do, set it by how it works after all the cute tricks have been done on the ground.

Okay, this Pinch Test worked really well. I've been having problems with an OS Max 25 faltering when going from idle to full throttle. I pinched off the fuel just before the carb at idle and the dang thing ran for over 20 seconds. As I went to lean the idle mixture screw, it had no resistance at all, it was that loose. Can't believe it backed itself out so it must have been that way from the factory. I have about 40 flights on the engine. Looks like doing the pinch test on a new engine is a good idea as I simply flew it rich for the first few flights to break it in and then leaned the main mixture valve without touching the idle screw. Thanks to all that commented.... great to have all these experienced forum members.

You've just illustrated beautifully why glow modelers need to have some basic understanding of how and why an engine works, and of how to tune it. Sure, if you buy a more expensive brand like OS or Saito they generally come set fairly close to right straight out of the box, with only the high end needing tweaking but there's always that monday morning/friday afternoon engine that's wrong, and settings can and do change with use. It's for the same reason that you should follow a sensible break-in procedure even with engines whose manufacturers claim it's not required.

Glad it's worked out well for you - you've learned a useful skill and can now look like the resident engine guru at your local club by passing it on.