Sheeting help
#1
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Germantown,
TN
I am building a Great Planes Ultimate 40S full build bipe kit.
I am to the point of sheeting the rear/turtle deck.
Below is the link to the kit instructions. I am on P. 24, D3-D8.
http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma0240-manual-v1_1.pdf
I wanted to know what techniques people use to do this. As you can see from the instructions, it say to "soak" the balsa sheet in warm water. Any easy and effective techniques to do this would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I also threw in a pic of the airplane.
I am to the point of sheeting the rear/turtle deck.
Below is the link to the kit instructions. I am on P. 24, D3-D8.
http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma0240-manual-v1_1.pdf
I wanted to know what techniques people use to do this. As you can see from the instructions, it say to "soak" the balsa sheet in warm water. Any easy and effective techniques to do this would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I also threw in a pic of the airplane.
#2

My Feedback: (13)
for bending balsa I like to use a 50/50% denatured alcohol and water in a spray bottle, wet the sheeting untill its easaly bent to shape,place some wax paper on the fuse so it doesn't become wet and then pre form the balsa into he curve your after.
use rubber bands or masking tape to hold it into position untill its dry, the sheeting will hold its shape when dry, then you can fine cut it into shape and wet any small areas that need any fine adjustments with the spray bottle.
I like to use a spray bottle for material control so you can apply just enough liquid to get the job done.
some use strait water, some ammonia and water, I prefer the alcohol and water because it evaporates faster,speeding up the work time, less waiting involved.
you might need to wet and tack the wood down with some CA when your doing the final fitting, after spraying a small bit of liquid on the wood it will loosen up a bit and become flexable, but pre forming helps alot, so your not fighting the wood to get it in position, thats my method.
use rubber bands or masking tape to hold it into position untill its dry, the sheeting will hold its shape when dry, then you can fine cut it into shape and wet any small areas that need any fine adjustments with the spray bottle.
I like to use a spray bottle for material control so you can apply just enough liquid to get the job done.
some use strait water, some ammonia and water, I prefer the alcohol and water because it evaporates faster,speeding up the work time, less waiting involved.
you might need to wet and tack the wood down with some CA when your doing the final fitting, after spraying a small bit of liquid on the wood it will loosen up a bit and become flexable, but pre forming helps alot, so your not fighting the wood to get it in position, thats my method.
#3
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
I've built this kit and several others that do the same step. You don't need to do anything fancy.
Glue the bottom of the sheeting to the fuse side with medium CA. Once it has set, wet the outside only with warm water on a sponge.
Let it sit 5 minutes or so and it will curve most of the way. Now you can apply medium CA to the top stringer and the formers and tape it in place for a minute or so and you're all set.
Glue the bottom of the sheeting to the fuse side with medium CA. Once it has set, wet the outside only with warm water on a sponge.
Let it sit 5 minutes or so and it will curve most of the way. Now you can apply medium CA to the top stringer and the formers and tape it in place for a minute or so and you're all set.
#6

My Feedback: (-1)
Like Mike but I have a squirt bottle of 50/50 water and ammonia that I use. I also root around in my wood pile looking for soft wood if the kit wood is a bit too stiff. Just bend slowly!!! If it isn't bending enough then a bit more spray and light pressure. I love sheeting and bending, it's one of the few things I do well!!



