How to cover a curved verticle stab?
#3
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An inside curve is definitely tricky, but that's a small one, so it shouldn't be too difficult.
I would start by adding a 3/8" strip about 2" long to the front of the curve (Like you did on the seams). Then cover the fin as you normally would, but leave some extra in that curved area for pulling. Heat it as you pull it just as you would around any curve. If you need to, you can cut a slit at a 45 degree angle, but be careful that the split doesn't travel too much as you stretch
I would start by adding a 3/8" strip about 2" long to the front of the curve (Like you did on the seams). Then cover the fin as you normally would, but leave some extra in that curved area for pulling. Heat it as you pull it just as you would around any curve. If you need to, you can cut a slit at a 45 degree angle, but be careful that the split doesn't travel too much as you stretch
#4
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From: Nutley,
NJ
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
An inside curve is definitely tricky, but that's a small one, so it shouldn't be too difficult.
I would start by adding a 3/8'' strip about 2'' long to the front of the curve (Like you did on the seams). Then cover the fin as you normally would, but leave some extra in that curved area for pulling. Heat it as you pull it just as you would around any curve. If you need to, you can cut a slit at a 45 degree angle, but be careful that the split doesn't travel too much as you stretch
An inside curve is definitely tricky, but that's a small one, so it shouldn't be too difficult.
I would start by adding a 3/8'' strip about 2'' long to the front of the curve (Like you did on the seams). Then cover the fin as you normally would, but leave some extra in that curved area for pulling. Heat it as you pull it just as you would around any curve. If you need to, you can cut a slit at a 45 degree angle, but be careful that the split doesn't travel too much as you stretch
Thanks for the support guys!
#8
Just my take on it. Try using your heat gun after you have cut it like MinnFlyer says. I think it will be easier to stretch it around when you apply some heat to it. That is what my wife's job on covering is,,,,she operates the heat gun. 

#9
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From: , MI
Just whatever you do, don't push down on the top of the iron with your finger to get a little more pressure on the film in the corner.
#10
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From: Lake County,
CA
RO,
Stop being so hard on yourself.
This is your first time at a very difficult process.
Perfection is nice but don't let it kill the fun.
I remember my first major covering job - I HATED IT!
Second job was easier - third even easier.
I'm getting to the point where I almost enjoy it.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter
Stop being so hard on yourself.
This is your first time at a very difficult process.
Perfection is nice but don't let it kill the fun.
I remember my first major covering job - I HATED IT!
Second job was easier - third even easier.
I'm getting to the point where I almost enjoy it.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter
#12
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From: Nutley,
NJ
ORIGINAL: KW_Counter
RO,
Stop being so hard on yourself.
This is your first time at a very difficult process.
Perfection is nice but don't let it kill the fun.
I remember my first major covering job - I HATED IT!
Second job was easier - third even easier.
I'm getting to the point where I almost enjoy it.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter
RO,
Stop being so hard on yourself.
This is your first time at a very difficult process.
Perfection is nice but don't let it kill the fun.
I remember my first major covering job - I HATED IT!
Second job was easier - third even easier.
I'm getting to the point where I almost enjoy it.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter
#14
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From: Nutley,
NJ
ORIGINAL: jaka
Hi!
First of all ...covering a stab or fin is always easier to do before you glue them in place!!!!
Hi!
First of all ...covering a stab or fin is always easier to do before you glue them in place!!!!
#15
Ultracote stretches very nicely using Minn's suggestions. I use a small trim iron on hi heat - holding it within 1/16" of the surface. This heat is up into the stretch / shrink temp range of the film. I don't need a glove as I would if I used a heat gun so I can be fairly accurate with my "tugs". With Ultracote you should be able to stretch the film 1/4" onto the back side without splitting the film. Totally unfamiliar with Monokote and its characteristics.
#17
That's not bad.
When the plane is finished no one will notice.
You may want to trim a bit more of the excess away from the base ( fuselage ).
This will help you smooth it down a bit more, especially when you cover the fuse.
When the plane is finished no one will notice.
You may want to trim a bit more of the excess away from the base ( fuselage ).
This will help you smooth it down a bit more, especially when you cover the fuse.
#18
opjose is so right on with his comment that nobody will notice. I also understand that you know that you can improve on it next time.
Enquiring minds ...
Looking at MinnFlyer's picture it appears that he (Mike) attached the fin side covering to the trailing edge 1st, thus establishing a nice straight anchor for stretching the film at the leading edge. This would have been done by tacking at the bottom of the fin at the trailing edge and pulling it taught vertically to the fin tip at the trailing edge. The open covering along the trailing edge would then be tacked at the center, then each remaining open half tacked in the center, repeating until the entire trailing edge covering was attached to the fin's trailing edge. Run your iron over the completed trailing edge. This would give him a solid anchor for pulling the covering straight forward to the leading edge. Then using the excess at the "cursed curve" at the bottom of the leading edge pull, heat to stretching point and wrapping the covering around the leading edge.
Forgive the poor use of tense in the previous paragraph but it ain't worth retyping
Your next effort will be easier I'm sure. Maybe it will meet your expectations - maybe not. Keep working on your stretching techniques and you'll be the one teaching others.
Good luck - looking forward to seeing the rest of your covering job.
Sign me "trying to get motivate to cover my Killer Chaos" ...
Enquiring minds ...
Looking at MinnFlyer's picture it appears that he (Mike) attached the fin side covering to the trailing edge 1st, thus establishing a nice straight anchor for stretching the film at the leading edge. This would have been done by tacking at the bottom of the fin at the trailing edge and pulling it taught vertically to the fin tip at the trailing edge. The open covering along the trailing edge would then be tacked at the center, then each remaining open half tacked in the center, repeating until the entire trailing edge covering was attached to the fin's trailing edge. Run your iron over the completed trailing edge. This would give him a solid anchor for pulling the covering straight forward to the leading edge. Then using the excess at the "cursed curve" at the bottom of the leading edge pull, heat to stretching point and wrapping the covering around the leading edge.
Forgive the poor use of tense in the previous paragraph but it ain't worth retyping

Your next effort will be easier I'm sure. Maybe it will meet your expectations - maybe not. Keep working on your stretching techniques and you'll be the one teaching others.
Good luck - looking forward to seeing the rest of your covering job.
Sign me "trying to get motivate to cover my Killer Chaos" ...
#21
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From: OZark,
MO
Sometimes multiple slits help. Also you might try heating it up and use a soft cloth to GENTLY rub down the bumps. A pin hole in trapped air bumps helps too. the small TRIM monokote iron is a good tool for these kind of tight spots. I did notice your wrinkles or bumps are on the flat part.
Iron down all the flat parts first and sheild the area with cardboard or whatever then do the curve as you did before. this way the flat stays put, if its hot it can pullaway making wrinkles.
I give GREAT advice as long as when you look at my planes you keep the 10 foot rule in mind.
IF YOU CAN'T SEE IT FROM 10 FEET ITS PERFECT!
Iron down all the flat parts first and sheild the area with cardboard or whatever then do the curve as you did before. this way the flat stays put, if its hot it can pullaway making wrinkles.
I give GREAT advice as long as when you look at my planes you keep the 10 foot rule in mind.
IF YOU CAN'T SEE IT FROM 10 FEET ITS PERFECT!
#22
My $.02 - a new X-acto 11 blade leaves no residual marks when ya poke air bubbles whereas a small "T" pin or needle leaves a small round dimple.





