I flew my Escapade last week and the new 55ax ran great.This week it is 20 degrees warmer and more humid and it deadsticked everytime.The motor is new with about 5-6 tanks run through it. I tried Setting the needle at 500 rpm less than peak then went richer on the next couple flights but same result. I tried a new glow plug also. The deadsticks seem to happen when I slow down and fly at about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle the motor just shuts down. Breaking it in it would never die out even when it was very rich and loading up,no deadsticks.I did not touch the low speed screw.What do you guys think I should try next? It runs great on the ground and at full throttle flight and even 1/2 throttle seems good, and it even transitions pretty good considering its not broken in fully yet. I have a 46ax and it never had this problem.

If it has 5 or 6 tanks through it the engine is broken in. You need to read the instructions about adjusting the needle valves once broken in. If the engine just quits when you go to idle it's most likely too lean on the bottom end. If it loads up and then dies it's too rich. Read the instructions, they will walk you through the adjustments.

Hi Mugen Mbx5
At 20 degrees warmer it will be rich. Go through the whole procedure of adjusting the LSNV and the HSNV. Start with the factory settings and then go from there.

i have the same motor and i have had a few dead sticks also

The 55 AX is a very, very fine engine. You are probably running the recommended prop found in the owner's manual and got away with it because it was cooler. The manual is is optimistic to say the least (good for low noise but sux for power/efficiency and can over heat). Try a Master Airscrew 11X7 S-2 series (dark gray, not black) or 11x6, 11X7 APC prop (second choice).

In your installation it has one thing going against it and that is the fuel tank height in relation to the carb center line. Your engine may be going leaner as the tank empty's or on high G pull up's or turns ( the engine sags). Unfortunately, many sport and trainers are set up this way. This can be rectified by rotating the engine so the cylinder is horizontal and the muffler is at the bottom. You will need to cut a hole in the cheek and fabricate top cover to clean up the looks a bit. If you do this, you will have near perfect fuel draw from take off to landing without the need of any finicky pump or regulators gizmo's.

Hope you have many great flights with it.

Mugen; mine did the same thing as yours, found out I was too rich on the low side after a few tanks, adjusted using the pinch method, no problems now

Hard to be 100% sure without actually seeing an engine but your description sound like a low end mixture problem to me. Adjust the low speed screw until you get a nice smooth idle and good throttle response. You may need to readjust the idle speed after doing this.

Yeah, even OS's need a little fine tuning once they are "broken in". Getting both the high and low speed needles can be a pain but it's necessary and worth it in the end. All of my AX's fly just fine, but I did have a problem with one of my .75 AX's dead-sticking occasionally, and I made a few minor adjustments and it seemed to stop. But, that could have been just about anything.. piece of crap in the line, a stuck clunk, both of which could have cleared on themselves. It's hard to say.

But adjust away, but remember very small adjustments in the low speed needle produce large changes in performance... so do these in small increments.

CGr.

As others have advised, fine tune that screw.

Read thru this thread; the best tip against dead sticks:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...tm.htm#8844410

I know of several (including me) that were having unexplained flame outs and we all know how to tune an engine. Switched to an OS F plug and prob. solved!!!!!! Not a deadstick since!!! Search and you will see this is a very common thing.

My 95ax would deadstick until I switched to an OSF plug too. I set the lsnv by letting it idle for 10 seconds that going to a quick WOT. If it sputtered and spit fuel in the transition, I would lean the lsnv 1/16 of a turn and continued to do this until I got a crisp, clean transition. Took about 3-4 turns of 1/16 before I got it right.