Fuel Tank Help
#1
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From: Guelph,
ON, CANADA
So i got my plane up for the first time and it flew great and everything. Once back on land I noticed a lot of fuel leaked into the fuselage. So my question is, how can i seal the cap to the fuel tank better so there is no leak? Any advice on this would help. Thank you for your kind consideration.
#2
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From: Lewisville, TX
I don't like putting fuel tanks together, however, the screw is either too tight or too loose! If it's too tight then things will start to distort. Too loose and it'll leak.
Try heading up to the flying dutchmen just north of waterloo. They will help, they are a great bunch. Also the hobby shop east of kitchener by the bakery are a decent bunch.
Try heading up to the flying dutchmen just north of waterloo. They will help, they are a great bunch. Also the hobby shop east of kitchener by the bakery are a decent bunch.
#4
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If it is an ARF plane, pull the tank and check to see if the seam is split. Tightening the bung screw to tight tends to split the tank.Select a Durbo or Sulivan tank of a proper size and replace the ARF tank. Be aware that you may have to do a little carving to get it to fit.
After having two ARF tanks split, I try to fit one of the name brands tanks in when I assemble the plane.
Just tightening the screw may be the reason the tank split in the first place. Check it to see if it is split before just tightening the screw.
It would also be a good idea to clean the wood as best as possible to prevent it from coming unglued later. There is a dry cleaning powder, D?? that doesn't seem to be available here in CA but might be in other states. Denatured Alcohol from the hardware store mixed with baking powder and painted on thick will lift some of the oil out of the wood. It's a mess to clean up after, but easier the picking up little pieces of balsa that result from an airframe failure in fight.
Don
After having two ARF tanks split, I try to fit one of the name brands tanks in when I assemble the plane.
Just tightening the screw may be the reason the tank split in the first place. Check it to see if it is split before just tightening the screw.
It would also be a good idea to clean the wood as best as possible to prevent it from coming unglued later. There is a dry cleaning powder, D?? that doesn't seem to be available here in CA but might be in other states. Denatured Alcohol from the hardware store mixed with baking powder and painted on thick will lift some of the oil out of the wood. It's a mess to clean up after, but easier the picking up little pieces of balsa that result from an airframe failure in fight.
Don
#5

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Indeed many Arf tanks are problamatical and its not neccessarily related to how expensive the arf was either.
To avoid all the problems of a conventional expansion plug type consider a genuine Hayes 'O' ring type tank. Far more reliable and durable, can be assembled many times with no leakage and no adjustment as well as far easier to assemble. Perfect for two line systems and I use them for perhaps nine out of ten of my aircraft.
John
To avoid all the problems of a conventional expansion plug type consider a genuine Hayes 'O' ring type tank. Far more reliable and durable, can be assembled many times with no leakage and no adjustment as well as far easier to assemble. Perfect for two line systems and I use them for perhaps nine out of ten of my aircraft.
John
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From: Guelph,
ON, CANADA
Yes it is indeed an ARF plane. I actually did buy a new tank but the only problem is that it differently shaped and i cannot get the bung of the new tank to fit so that it comes out the hole right behind the Engine. Is there way to use the same tank that came with the plane and just change the bung part?
#7
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Whatever you end up doing, when you have your tank assembled, attach fuel tubing to both the pressure outlet and clunk outlet then fill up your bathroom sink with water. Pinch the clunk line and submerge the tank into the water, then blow into the pressure line until you've got some pressure in the tank and look for air bubbles in the water. If you see some, then you have a leak, otherwise you're good to go.
#8
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ORIGINAL: marxoverkill
Yes it is indeed an ARF plane. I actually did buy a new tank but the only problem is that it differently shaped and i cannot get the bung of the new tank to fit so that it comes out the hole right behind the Engine. Is there way to use the same tank that came with the plane and just change the bung part?
Yes it is indeed an ARF plane. I actually did buy a new tank but the only problem is that it differently shaped and i cannot get the bung of the new tank to fit so that it comes out the hole right behind the Engine. Is there way to use the same tank that came with the plane and just change the bung part?
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From: Lewisville, TX
ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
To avoid all the problems of a conventional expansion plug type consider a genuine Hayes 'O' ring type tank. Far more reliable and durable, can be assembled many times with no leakage and no adjustment as well as far easier to assemble. Perfect for two line systems and I use them for perhaps nine out of ten of my aircraft.
To avoid all the problems of a conventional expansion plug type consider a genuine Hayes 'O' ring type tank. Far more reliable and durable, can be assembled many times with no leakage and no adjustment as well as far easier to assemble. Perfect for two line systems and I use them for perhaps nine out of ten of my aircraft.
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From: Omaha,
NE
I've had some good success with using a bead of silicone around the whole stopper of the tank, as well as around the connections on the intake/vent lines as well. Since doing this to all my tanks, haven't had any issues with leaks. Might be worth a thought as well........
Dax
Dax
#14
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If it is a brand new plane and the tank split, any repudable LHS will replace it or order a new one from their distributer. The big mail order houses are pretty good about this, too. Hong Kong, Taiwan, etc. just buy a new tank. Too tight is more likely to leak than any other cause... and BTW, search the Tips section for how to dry up fuel in yor plane,. If you let it set and accumulate, it gets very nasty and softens the wood.
Good flying!
Mike
Good flying!
Mike
#15
I had the same problem a while back, upon close inspection the fuel line was split right at the end of the brass tubing. The engine still ran in this condition, although it would have a hiccup while coming around from being inverted. Had fuel all over the inside. Just something else you might want to check[8D]



