How do I clean my engine properly?
#1
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From: Meridian,
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I crashed a plane today;
; It went nose in, so the engine is covered in dirt. How or what do I use to clean it. What about possible dirt down the carb? Do I use anything to clean it in terms of oil based cleaners or kitchen cleaners. Help me out here.
; It went nose in, so the engine is covered in dirt. How or what do I use to clean it. What about possible dirt down the carb? Do I use anything to clean it in terms of oil based cleaners or kitchen cleaners. Help me out here.
#2
I first brush out as much dirt and debris as possible.
Then I'll remove the carb ( to be separately cleaned later ) take off the backplate and cylinder head ( carefully noting orientations, etc... ) and wash the engine in warm water.
I'll run water through it repeatedly trying to get out evey little piece of grit and debris.
Then while still in the water I'll gently turn the piston rod, searching for any sensation that there is any grittyness or dirt still in the engine. Usually I'll flush the engine as I do this, just to get everything.
Once done, I'll blow the engine out a bit with compressed air and then flush it with WD-40 to dislodge what water remains.
After that I'll use a bit of glow fuel on the parts and put the engine back together.... minus the carb.
More glow or afterun oil is used in the crankcase ( no glow plug installed ! ).... and I'll then try to turn the engine over gently again checking for any grittyness or debris as I do so.
If it seems OK, I'll move on to the carb.
I tend not to have to dismantle the carb... usually I'll soak it in running water, then blow out all of the nipples with compressed air.
I'll also use compressed air on the needle ports, and check for airflow.
If it seems OK, I'll flush it with WD40, followed by afterun oil or glow fuel....
I'll wipe it with a towel, then re-install it on the engine.
Usually I bench test the engine at this point.... to make sure it is operating properly, using the recommended "break-in" prop size.
Then I'll remove the carb ( to be separately cleaned later ) take off the backplate and cylinder head ( carefully noting orientations, etc... ) and wash the engine in warm water.
I'll run water through it repeatedly trying to get out evey little piece of grit and debris.
Then while still in the water I'll gently turn the piston rod, searching for any sensation that there is any grittyness or dirt still in the engine. Usually I'll flush the engine as I do this, just to get everything.
Once done, I'll blow the engine out a bit with compressed air and then flush it with WD-40 to dislodge what water remains.
After that I'll use a bit of glow fuel on the parts and put the engine back together.... minus the carb.
More glow or afterun oil is used in the crankcase ( no glow plug installed ! ).... and I'll then try to turn the engine over gently again checking for any grittyness or debris as I do so.
If it seems OK, I'll move on to the carb.
I tend not to have to dismantle the carb... usually I'll soak it in running water, then blow out all of the nipples with compressed air.
I'll also use compressed air on the needle ports, and check for airflow.
If it seems OK, I'll flush it with WD40, followed by afterun oil or glow fuel....
I'll wipe it with a towel, then re-install it on the engine.
Usually I bench test the engine at this point.... to make sure it is operating properly, using the recommended "break-in" prop size.
#4
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From: Meridian,
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ORIGINAL: opjose
I first brush out as much dirt and debris as possible.
Then I'll remove the carb ( to be separately cleaned later ) take off the backplate and cylinder head ( carefully noting orientations, etc... ) and wash the engine in warm water.
I'll run water through it repeatedly trying to get out evey little piece of grit and debris.
Then while still in the water I'll gently turn the piston rod, searching for any sensation that there is any grittyness or dirt still in the engine. Usually I'll flush the engine as I do this, just to get everything.
Once done, I'll blow the engine out a bit with compressed air and then flush it with WD-40 to dislodge what water remains.
After that I'll use a bit of glow fuel on the parts and put the engine back together.... minus the carb.
More glow or afterun oil is used in the crankcase ( no glow plug installed ! ).... and I'll then try to turn the engine over gently again checking for any grittyness or debris as I do so.
If it seems OK, I'll move on to the carb.
I tend not to have to dismantle the carb... usually I'll soak it in running water, then blow out all of the nipples with compressed air.
I'll also use compressed air on the needle ports, and check for airflow.
If it seems OK, I'll flush it with WD40, followed by afterun oil or glow fuel....
I'll wipe it with a towel, then re-install it on the engine.
Usually I bench test the engine at this point.... to make sure it is operating properly, using the recommended "break-in" prop size.
I first brush out as much dirt and debris as possible.
Then I'll remove the carb ( to be separately cleaned later ) take off the backplate and cylinder head ( carefully noting orientations, etc... ) and wash the engine in warm water.
I'll run water through it repeatedly trying to get out evey little piece of grit and debris.
Then while still in the water I'll gently turn the piston rod, searching for any sensation that there is any grittyness or dirt still in the engine. Usually I'll flush the engine as I do this, just to get everything.
Once done, I'll blow the engine out a bit with compressed air and then flush it with WD-40 to dislodge what water remains.
After that I'll use a bit of glow fuel on the parts and put the engine back together.... minus the carb.
More glow or afterun oil is used in the crankcase ( no glow plug installed ! ).... and I'll then try to turn the engine over gently again checking for any grittyness or debris as I do so.
If it seems OK, I'll move on to the carb.
I tend not to have to dismantle the carb... usually I'll soak it in running water, then blow out all of the nipples with compressed air.
I'll also use compressed air on the needle ports, and check for airflow.
If it seems OK, I'll flush it with WD40, followed by afterun oil or glow fuel....
I'll wipe it with a towel, then re-install it on the engine.
Usually I bench test the engine at this point.... to make sure it is operating properly, using the recommended "break-in" prop size.
#6
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From: Mumbai, INDIA
Dont turn the engine over too much. The grit may be very tiny and you wont even feel it. Do like opJose said, just add an intermediate step.
1) Clean the engine externally with a brush first to get rid of external grit.
2) Then take off the backplate and the carb: easy enough to do that. Dont take off the head yet. Now check in both if there is any grit. If there is none, chances are you goy away without any internal grit.
3) If everything is OK, take the glow plug off and immerse for a couple of days in plain methanol. Methanol will slowly remove any dirt and also any gunking
4) After a couple of days turn the crank over slowly first and then with some speed if every thing is OK to rinse out any grit from the cylinder
5) Take the engine out and rinse under running water. At this time there is no lubrication so be careful.
6) Dry completely and oil thoroughly with light machine oil. Then assemble
Ideally you should do these steps in combination with what opJose has suggested. I am not suggesting to open the head as that will spoil the gasket. I have lost a 55AX that way. Avoid it but if your engine has grit inside go ahead and open it.
Ameyam
1) Clean the engine externally with a brush first to get rid of external grit.
2) Then take off the backplate and the carb: easy enough to do that. Dont take off the head yet. Now check in both if there is any grit. If there is none, chances are you goy away without any internal grit.
3) If everything is OK, take the glow plug off and immerse for a couple of days in plain methanol. Methanol will slowly remove any dirt and also any gunking
4) After a couple of days turn the crank over slowly first and then with some speed if every thing is OK to rinse out any grit from the cylinder
5) Take the engine out and rinse under running water. At this time there is no lubrication so be careful.
6) Dry completely and oil thoroughly with light machine oil. Then assemble
Ideally you should do these steps in combination with what opJose has suggested. I am not suggesting to open the head as that will spoil the gasket. I have lost a 55AX that way. Avoid it but if your engine has grit inside go ahead and open it.
Ameyam
#7
ORIGINAL: ameyam
2) Then take off the backplate and the carb: easy enough to do that. Dont take off the head yet. Now check in both if there is any grit. If there is none, chances are you goy away without any internal grit.
2) Then take off the backplate and the carb: easy enough to do that. Dont take off the head yet. Now check in both if there is any grit. If there is none, chances are you goy away without any internal grit.
Removing the backplate and flushing the engine with water first helps this.
Note I suggest WATER not Glow Fuel/Methanol FIRST.
Methanol can actually cause the particles to somewhat stick to the engine sides, making it harder to flush them out... while water tends to dissolve and carry away most dirt like debris.
ORIGINAL: ameyam
3) If everything is OK, take the glow plug off and immerse for a couple of days in plain methanol. Methanol will slowly remove any dirt and also any gunking
3) If everything is OK, take the glow plug off and immerse for a couple of days in plain methanol. Methanol will slowly remove any dirt and also any gunking
Usually I don't bother with the glow plug, I just replace it after a crash.
ORIGINAL: ameyam
I am not suggesting to open the head as that will spoil the gasket. I have lost a 55AX that way. Avoid it but if your engine has grit inside go ahead and open it.
I am not suggesting to open the head as that will spoil the gasket. I have lost a 55AX that way. Avoid it but if your engine has grit inside go ahead and open it.
Also you can remove dirt from the cylinder head simply by flushing water through it ( glow plug removed too ) with the muffler off, and the exhaust port open as far as it will go.
I've cleaned a couple of engines this way w/o having to pull the head.
The head may be pulled if you suspect scoring of the liner or cylinder.





