Saito FA-82~Which Fuel?
#1
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From: Up in the Mountains AZ
OK, I have an FA-82 on order for my next project.
I have already had some different opinions in a couple of posts but I will ask here.
What mixture do you like to run in your Saito 4 strokes for sport flying?
I have already had some different opinions in a couple of posts but I will ask here.
What mixture do you like to run in your Saito 4 strokes for sport flying?
#2
I run my 1.00 and 1.25 Saitos with 5% Cool Power fuel.
I run anything smaller with 10-15% Cool Power fuel.
I've never have had any problems with my Saitos, other than they tend to come set wrong out of the box.
Yet they tolerate VERY poor tuning and still fire up and run, unlike other engines.
I run anything smaller with 10-15% Cool Power fuel.
I've never have had any problems with my Saitos, other than they tend to come set wrong out of the box.
Yet they tolerate VERY poor tuning and still fire up and run, unlike other engines.
#3

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ORIGINAL: opjose
I run my 1.00 and 1.25 Saitos with 5% Cool Power fuel.
I run anything smaller with 10-15% Cool Power fuel.
I've never have had any problems with my Saitos, other than they tend to come set wrong out of the box.
Yet they tolerate VERY poor tuning and still fire up and run, unlike other engines.
I run my 1.00 and 1.25 Saitos with 5% Cool Power fuel.
I run anything smaller with 10-15% Cool Power fuel.
I've never have had any problems with my Saitos, other than they tend to come set wrong out of the box.
Yet they tolerate VERY poor tuning and still fire up and run, unlike other engines.
#4
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From: Andover,
MN
15 % and 18 % blended oil
Thried some Patroit from Hobby Town and darn good stuff as I run it in all my of planes 2 stroke and 4s and small to large
Thried some Patroit from Hobby Town and darn good stuff as I run it in all my of planes 2 stroke and 4s and small to large
#5
You'll hear a lot of people say you have to use 30% helicopter fuel or some other voodoo brew but that's just throwing money away in my opinion unless you have a specific need to extract every last bit of performance you can. A good 15% fuel will be just fine. I run 15% in just about everything. Ilike Coolpower, mainly because it is readilly availble in my area.
You'd probably do just fine with 10% too.
You'd probably do just fine with 10% too.
#7
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From: California City,
CA
Anything from 0% to 15% nitro will do, so long as you have 18% oil by volume, preferably a blend of synthetic and castor. All higher nitro content really gives you is more heat to dissipate.
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From: right here
I use Power Master 20/20. I have about 7 gallons left. I heard they are out of business now. So when I use up what I have, I will go to Cool Power, it is a great fuel also. Always add a little Castor oil, about 1 OZ, that brings it up to 20% oil content, which Saito recommends.
#10

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ORIGINAL: krashkart
Interesting, our local shop has about 6 gallons of that stuff on the shelf.
But it looks like it's been there awhile too.
Interesting, our local shop has about 6 gallons of that stuff on the shelf.
But it looks like it's been there awhile too.
#11

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What ever you do - do not punish your new Saito 82 with regular Cool Power. Four stroke Cool Power would be OK for it has some castor oil content.
The Omega fuel is OK.
Your fuel needs a little bit of castor oil in the mix. Use something that has a blend of synthetic oil and castor oil
The Omega fuel is OK.
Your fuel needs a little bit of castor oil in the mix. Use something that has a blend of synthetic oil and castor oil
#12

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ORIGINAL: w8ye
What ever you do - do not punish your new Saito 82 with regular Cool Power. Four stroke Cool Power would be OK for it has some castor oil content.
The Omega fuel is OK.
Your fuel needs a little bit of castor oil in the mix. Use something that has a blend of synthetic oil and castor oil
What ever you do - do not punish your new Saito 82 with regular Cool Power. Four stroke Cool Power would be OK for it has some castor oil content.
The Omega fuel is OK.
Your fuel needs a little bit of castor oil in the mix. Use something that has a blend of synthetic oil and castor oil
#13

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For two years I have been using Wildcat. I've used about 14 gallons. Prior to that I used Rich's brew for a couple years. Then 3 years using Omega then there were about 3 years using Rich's brew then Omega back in the 90's.
I like the Wildcat Premium Xtra and have been using 10 % nitro - 18% oil. I used 15% nitro in the other brands.
I have a couple cases of Wildcat 20-20 and it runs with a lot of power. No Castor oil just 20% synthetic.
Regular Wildcat Premium 10 or 15% nitro fuel just has 16% oil though. the ratio of synthetic to castor is 80/20
Omega and Rich's brew are 17% oil
The ratio of synthetic to castor in Omega is 70/30 and in Rich's Brew it is 75/25
I never had any bad fuel in any of these. It is a matter of availability and right place at the right time.
Regular Cool Power is OK if you put a couple ounces of castor in it.
Cool power four stroke has all the same ratios as Omega and runs good
I like the Wildcat Premium Xtra and have been using 10 % nitro - 18% oil. I used 15% nitro in the other brands.
I have a couple cases of Wildcat 20-20 and it runs with a lot of power. No Castor oil just 20% synthetic.
Regular Wildcat Premium 10 or 15% nitro fuel just has 16% oil though. the ratio of synthetic to castor is 80/20
Omega and Rich's brew are 17% oil
The ratio of synthetic to castor in Omega is 70/30 and in Rich's Brew it is 75/25
I never had any bad fuel in any of these. It is a matter of availability and right place at the right time.
Regular Cool Power is OK if you put a couple ounces of castor in it.
Cool power four stroke has all the same ratios as Omega and runs good
#15
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
Other then a little more tuning on the low end they all worked pretty good in my four strokes. The idle was a bit rougher with the 5% but I'm sure if I spent a little more time on it that wouldn't be any problem. The few added RPM I get with the 20% and 30% isn't worth the added cost. They are easier to tune with a higher nitro fuel though.
Other then a little more tuning on the low end they all worked pretty good in my four strokes. The idle was a bit rougher with the 5% but I'm sure if I spent a little more time on it that wouldn't be any problem. The few added RPM I get with the 20% and 30% isn't worth the added cost. They are easier to tune with a higher nitro fuel though.
There is quite a hike in fuel prices going up to 15%-30% compared to the lower nitro contents.
Many of the magazines have gone into nitro requirements, and the findings are that higher nitro serves best on the fairly small engines. .40 and below.
I've only used Castor on an engine or two, where it was recommended for break-in.
Other than that I run all brands without it to good effect.
BTW: The articles also discuss that as displacement increases oil content percentage requirements are lessened and will even rob power.
#16

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ORIGINAL: opjose
That is exactly what I've found as well.
There is quite a hike in fuel prices going up to 15%-30% compared to the lower nitro contents.
Many of the magazines have gone into nitro requirements, and the findings are that higher nitro serves best on the fairly small engines. .40 and below.
I've only used Castor on an engine or two, where it was recommended for break-in.
Other than that I run all brands without it to good effect.
BTW: The articles also discuss that as displacement increases oil content percentage requirements are lessened and will even rob power.
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
Other then a little more tuning on the low end they all worked pretty good in my four strokes. The idle was a bit rougher with the 5% but I'm sure if I spent a little more time on it that wouldn't be any problem. The few added RPM I get with the 20% and 30% isn't worth the added cost. They are easier to tune with a higher nitro fuel though.
Other then a little more tuning on the low end they all worked pretty good in my four strokes. The idle was a bit rougher with the 5% but I'm sure if I spent a little more time on it that wouldn't be any problem. The few added RPM I get with the 20% and 30% isn't worth the added cost. They are easier to tune with a higher nitro fuel though.
There is quite a hike in fuel prices going up to 15%-30% compared to the lower nitro contents.
Many of the magazines have gone into nitro requirements, and the findings are that higher nitro serves best on the fairly small engines. .40 and below.
I've only used Castor on an engine or two, where it was recommended for break-in.
Other than that I run all brands without it to good effect.
BTW: The articles also discuss that as displacement increases oil content percentage requirements are lessened and will even rob power.
They did OK on the 5%, not as well as the OS engines but OK.
#19

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ORIGINAL: w8ye
Regular Cool Power equals ''Rust City'' and bad bearings
But careful, Cool Power has expanded to different lube packages and some work very well like the multi vis versions
Regular Cool Power equals ''Rust City'' and bad bearings
But careful, Cool Power has expanded to different lube packages and some work very well like the multi vis versions
#20
In my neck of the woods, humidy tends to be QUITE high throughout the year.
I run Cool Power on all of my glow engines. Some of these have been sitting for two or three years after their last runs.
When I went to check them out early this year, I found absolutely NO rust in the engines.
Glow fuel tends to inherently absorb water. Castor content has little to do with that.
If you leave fuel with water content in the engine, you are bound to get rust over time.
But that will happen with ANY fuel, no matter what you use.
This is not a characteristic of Cool Power or other synthetic oil fuels, as is being implied, but rather habits on the part of the pilot/owner.
I run Cool Power on all of my glow engines. Some of these have been sitting for two or three years after their last runs.
When I went to check them out early this year, I found absolutely NO rust in the engines.
Glow fuel tends to inherently absorb water. Castor content has little to do with that.
If you leave fuel with water content in the engine, you are bound to get rust over time.
But that will happen with ANY fuel, no matter what you use.
This is not a characteristic of Cool Power or other synthetic oil fuels, as is being implied, but rather habits on the part of the pilot/owner.
#21

My Feedback: (-1)
ORIGINAL: opjose
In my neck of the woods, humidy tends to be QUITE high throughout the year.
I run Cool Power on all of my glow engines. Some of these have been sitting for two or three years after their last runs.
When I went to check them out early this year, I found absolutely NO rust in the engines.
Glow fuel tends to inherently absorb water. Castor content has little to do with that.
If you leave fuel with water content in the engine, you are bound to get rust over time.
But that will happen with ANY fuel, no matter what you use.
This is not a characteristic of Cool Power or other synthetic oil fuels, as is being implied, but rather habits on the part of the pilot/owner.
In my neck of the woods, humidy tends to be QUITE high throughout the year.
I run Cool Power on all of my glow engines. Some of these have been sitting for two or three years after their last runs.
When I went to check them out early this year, I found absolutely NO rust in the engines.
Glow fuel tends to inherently absorb water. Castor content has little to do with that.
If you leave fuel with water content in the engine, you are bound to get rust over time.
But that will happen with ANY fuel, no matter what you use.
This is not a characteristic of Cool Power or other synthetic oil fuels, as is being implied, but rather habits on the part of the pilot/owner.
#23
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From: Monterey Park, CA
I've been running 4 strokers since the late 70's. For general flying 10% to 15% nitro works fine, anything more is a waste of money. During the warm weather I would add a ounce of caster oil to a gallon of fuel if it is not already in it. During cool weather I usually leave out the caster oil.



