tuned pipe header cut?
#1
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From: Coral Springs,
FL
Hi - Ihave an 0s 46 with a tuned pipe. I bought a new header for it and it's a lot longer than the one it had.
Do Ihave to cut it, or can I just go with the way that it is?
I don't really care if Iget better performance out of it. I just like it because of the sound.
Will it overheat if I don't cut it?
Do Ihave to cut it, or can I just go with the way that it is?
I don't really care if Iget better performance out of it. I just like it because of the sound.
Will it overheat if I don't cut it?
#2
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If you really don't care about the performance, you can leave it as it is. If you want more power, I'll be glad to tell you what to do - it's easy.
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From: Northern Occupied Mexico,
CA
Shouldn't, actually it will overheat if the header is too short. http://tech.flygsw.org/tuned_pipe.htm What will happen though is that you will loose RPM's.
I also like the way they sound but try to get them set right, heck I even have one on my high wing trainer. Can anyone say FLUTTER!!!!!!
I also like the way they sound but try to get them set right, heck I even have one on my high wing trainer. Can anyone say FLUTTER!!!!!!
#5
uavflyer76,
If you want to tune your tuned pipe system, put the pipe on the uncut header and tach your engine at full throttle, pull the pipe, cut 1/4" of header (with the silicone coupler attached to the pipe), run the engine and tach it again looking for an in crease in RPM. Repeat this until you get a drop in RPM. Then take the last piece of material you cut off the pipe, insert it into the silicone coupler pushing it all the way to the pipe. The reason for this is to lengthen the header that 1/4" when you reassemble it.
Hogflyer
If you want to tune your tuned pipe system, put the pipe on the uncut header and tach your engine at full throttle, pull the pipe, cut 1/4" of header (with the silicone coupler attached to the pipe), run the engine and tach it again looking for an in crease in RPM. Repeat this until you get a drop in RPM. Then take the last piece of material you cut off the pipe, insert it into the silicone coupler pushing it all the way to the pipe. The reason for this is to lengthen the header that 1/4" when you reassemble it.
Hogflyer
#6

My Feedback: (-1)
ORIGINAL: hogflyer
uavflyer76,
If you want to tune your tuned pipe system, put the pipe on the uncut header and tach your engine at full throttle, pull the pipe, cut 1/4'' of header (with the silicone coupler attached to the pipe), run the engine and tach it again looking for an in crease in RPM. Repeat this until you get a drop in RPM. Then take the last piece of material you cut off the pipe, insert it into the silicone coupler pushing it all the way to the pipe. The reason for this is to lengthen the header that 1/4'' when you reassemble it.
Hogflyer
uavflyer76,
If you want to tune your tuned pipe system, put the pipe on the uncut header and tach your engine at full throttle, pull the pipe, cut 1/4'' of header (with the silicone coupler attached to the pipe), run the engine and tach it again looking for an in crease in RPM. Repeat this until you get a drop in RPM. Then take the last piece of material you cut off the pipe, insert it into the silicone coupler pushing it all the way to the pipe. The reason for this is to lengthen the header that 1/4'' when you reassemble it.
Hogflyer
#8
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
Isn't it easier to cut the silicone???
ORIGINAL: hogflyer
uavflyer76,
If you want to tune your tuned pipe system, put the pipe on the uncut header and tach your engine at full throttle, pull the pipe, cut 1/4'' of header (with the silicone coupler attached to the pipe), run the engine and tach it again looking for an in crease in RPM. Repeat this until you get a drop in RPM. Then take the last piece of material you cut off the pipe, insert it into the silicone coupler pushing it all the way to the pipe. The reason for this is to lengthen the header that 1/4'' when you reassemble it.
Hogflyer
uavflyer76,
If you want to tune your tuned pipe system, put the pipe on the uncut header and tach your engine at full throttle, pull the pipe, cut 1/4'' of header (with the silicone coupler attached to the pipe), run the engine and tach it again looking for an in crease in RPM. Repeat this until you get a drop in RPM. Then take the last piece of material you cut off the pipe, insert it into the silicone coupler pushing it all the way to the pipe. The reason for this is to lengthen the header that 1/4'' when you reassemble it.
Hogflyer
No - the silicone is just a coupler. You want to have the header and pipe up against each other making physical contact (and you won't get any radio interference with this - I flew like this for years with the old AM wide band radio's and never had an interference issue). If you tune it with a gap, then when the pipe gets bumped or removed you you'll have to adjust it to get it back to the optimal setting. Some planes you have to remove the pipe to remove the wing and you want it back at the same spot every time to function optimally.
Hogflyer
#10

You could do what we used to do at the drag strip and stock car tracks. Get a grease pen and draw a small line on the pipe. Run the engine till it gets hot enough to melt the grease. Where the grease stops melting is the cut off spot. Worked in the 50's before all the modern equipment. ENJOY !!! RED



