Here's my list, what am I missing other than prop,fuel, and building supplies?

Hobbico Avistar 40 II MonoKote ARF
O.S. 46LA ABN w/Muffler
Futaba 6EXP 6-Channel FM w/ four S3001 Servos
Hobbico Exhaust Deflector .35-.90
Hobbico Hand Crank Fuel Pump
Great Planes Filling Station Can Fitting Set
Hobbico #64 Rubber Bands 1/4 lb
Tower Hobbies Power Starter 12V Deluxe & 12V battery
Hobbico Glow Starter

BumpI'm ordering the plane tomorrow guys, can you double check my list please?

Good choice. The Avistar is a great flying plane. I have a couple of them.

Bjfrankl

Bottle of 409 and paper towels for the field cleanup.

Take appropriately sized hex wrenches and screwdrivers to the field. Buy them if they are not in your tool box.

Monocoat can get warm and sag. Maybe an iron for it?

Tom

Alright thanks guys, so I can run the .46 engine in the Avistar correct?I have chosen a prop yet, but is there any major differences between wooden and nylon?

Don't use paper towels, they will scratch the covering. Paper towels are essentially wood fibers often with a little metal fiber mixed in for good measure. Over time the finish will dull with paper towel use. Better to purchase some cheap terry cloth rags. You can either hand wash or soak in detergent and rinse before putting in the wash (you don't want to suffer the wrath of the wife.)

Save money and go to the office supply store and buy a pound of #64 rubber bands. I have found a VoltWatch to be very handy installed on my Avistar. You're going to need some glue. Thin CA, 2hr epoxy for the wing halves, 30 min epoxy.

All right guys, but can I use the O.S. 46LA on the avistar?

Oh sure, that's a fine engine. In my first, I had a Thunder Tiger GP.42, and it flew fine. The OS LA 46 is fine. Just make sure you get your CG close to 3 1/4" behind the leading edge. I've had to move my battery back behind the former where the rear wing dowel is.

Some may say it's not needed, but some marvel mystery oil for after run at the end of the day. Really cheap insurance especially if you live in a high humidity area.

My secret formula is Marvel Mystery Airtool Oil and Automatic Transmission Fluid 50/50.

The 46LA is a decent engine for the Avistar, but you may consider a 46AX or even 55AX. Both of these have greater power which you will need when you try out aerobatics and ball bearing supproted crank which will give you better life. However, lots of people have flown the 46LA as well with good results if you are on a budget.

The prop I would suggest is the 11x6 or 11x7. Try it out and if you find it too fast after all adjustments, try a 12x5 or so. For a 55AX it would be 12x6 or 13x4. Remember a trainer needs speed to keep flying so I would keep the smaller size-higher pitch in each range. I would suggest Master Air Screw over APC as they have soft GRP that prevents prop breakage if you mistakenly hit the ground at take-off and landing.

Just use some soap water with cloth or a old toothbrush to keep the monocote clean. The toothbrush method, even if labour intensive, lets you detect breakages, cuts before they cost you the airplane. If it sags, use a heat gun set to low heat (I use a hair drier on my Phoenix as they come with cheaper PVC covering and a hair drier works quite well). Best still, borrow this from a fellow flier when you need it.

Keeping the wrenches and screwdriver handy is a good idea.

You dont need a electric starter for now, but get yourself a chicken stick. If your engine doesnt start, you can use a fellow flier's starter. Take the starter after you get a more advanced airplane

Look at what fuel you are using. I had a lot of problems till I was using plain castor. Using 100% synthetic is also not recommended as castor offers protection against wear when the lubrication is low. We now use Klotz 100 which has 20-80 blend of castor and synthetic in the lubricant itself. Other than this home brew is OK. Use a small amount of nitro 5-10% as it will give you more reliable idle. Nitro is its own oxidiser and will not let your engine stall if you suddenly apply throttle

And when you are up in the air, forget all this and simply have fun

Ameyam

Thank you for all the help guys.

Will the 4.8v RX battery that comes with the Futaba radio, be sufficient to power the four S3001 servos?

Yes, it should be fine for 3 - 4 flights. I second the suggestion of getting a VoltWatch.

Bruce

Is it 600 mah? Yes, but fully charged, be safe and limit yourself to 4 ten minute flights. I've pushed mine to 5 but its a better (safer?) idea to do a quick charge at the field

Alright, thank for all your help guys, it is really appreciated.

One last question before I place the order tonight.

What is the main difference between the wooden and nylon propellers? Are there any differences in performance?

The typical battery that ships with the Futaba is 4.8V and something around 700mAh. As a thumbrule, the larger the mAh value, the longer the battery charge will last and the faster it will become unusable.

The 4.8v Futaba battery will be good for 3~4 fights like Landeck suggested but I would suggest you get yoursefl a 6V (5cell pack) of atleast 1100mAh rating. As with the 55AX, it will help you build additional safety when you go into aerobatics. At our club we make these ourselves. I just lost a 2200mAh 6V NiMh set that I had used every week for more than a year, but during the week it would almost never discharge and I am into 3D flying with 90-size engined airplanes and hi-torque servos, so that was quite good duty they gave.

If you are on a budget, the Futaba battries are good enough for now

Ameyam

A bit silly, but dont you also need an instructor to help you fly?

When I thought I was a "purest", I used only wood. They would break, I'd replace them, they would break, I'd replace them. Get the idea. Lately I'm perfectly happy with a good APC say 11-6. That APC prop is a good prop. They're some kind of fiber/nylon molding. From Tower's description. Computer-optimized design gives these props a thinner profile and more "bite" with less noise. Lightweight molded nylon construction reduces rotating mass for higher output and longer life. Reinforcing carbon fibers help maintain true, constant pitch at any rpm. A nylon/fiber prop will also break, but seems like I get luckier more often.

Thanks for the Information Tom Neid.

@ Ameyam I already belong to a club, and I have an instructor to fly with

Get some extra glow plugs to bring with you to the field.
 I always forget em'!

my 2 cents...don't get the la. Spend a little more and get an ax engine. You will have a much better engine and less trouble. Ask me how I know?
Shaggy

Ditto on the extra glow plugs. Also extra props and all the tools you may need to adjust controls, engine settings, change glow plugs and props. Some clear packing tape for the unforeseen holes and tears and some c.a. glue for the minor breaks.

The LA is a fine engine, it would be just fine on the Avistar. An OS 46AX is going to cost $50 more, and is an extremely fine motor. In the $80 range, I might suggest the Magnum XLS 46, only because it has ball bearings and would be a slightly more refined engine than the LA. My absolute favorite is the Thunder Tiger Pro 46, but that costs $95. The choice is yours and what your budget allows. I've got two Magnums and they roar and I'm quite impressed with them. Don't mean to add confusion to your decisions. They're all pretty good in my opinion. I had plenty of power with a Thunder Tiger GP 42 on my Avistar, even in windy conditions. Still like that engine. If you're not familiar with starting and tuning a model engine, you might want to go with what your instructor suggests and what he's familiar with.

Just when I thought I had the list done

I think I'll stick with the OS 46, another flier at the club uses it, and I haven't seen him have any problems with that engine yet.
But do you gain a major advantage with bearings?
Who knew picking out the parts could be so stressful