hawk sky binding
 

<div dir="ltr"><span>Dynam</span> <font color="#ff0000">Hawk</font> <font color="#ff0000">Sky</font> brushless powered glider

I am having a difficult time flying it. I believe I might not be getting full power out of my motor. I know its a not a battery problem as I have tested the battey and its full charge. I believe its a binding problem. The rest of the plane is working fine, I have a few questions that somebody might be able to answer.

1. What is the proper binding procedures, I bind it now by:
a. turn on the <span class="ecxsquiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word">tx</span>
<span class="ecxsquiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word">b</span>. plug in bat to <span class="ecxsquiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word">rc</span>, makes beeping noise followed by long beep then its binds
2. In other forums I have heard that it<span class="ecxsquiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word">s</span> common to have too baby the throttle and trim to get20% power, then I amable to get full throttle. Is this normal? I have never seen this action on any youtube videos.
3. As I <span class="ecxsquiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word">noobie</span> flyer any other hints would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time and looking forward to any reponses.

</div>

RE: hawk sky binding
 

If you can control the control surfaces and have throttle action, then it's not a binding problem. What is more likely is, although you have a full charge in the battery, it may not be capable of giving you what you want.

Electrics are very tempermental about throttle management. The more you push it, the less you have. With glow power, you pretty much have the same power from the beginning of the tank to the last drop of fuel. With electric, well, as the battery discharges, you have less available to push the motor as hard as you might wish.

Most likely you will have to learn that the throttle is not an on-off switch. You just don't push it to full and fly it that way because if you do, you will most likely get way less flying time than you would if you used some throttle management. That means get it airborne, reduce the throttle and fly the plane, only adding throttle when you need it. A lot of new pilots will run the throttle up to full and forget it's there until it's time to land.

The other possibility is that you may have a binding issue, not with the receiver, but with the servos and how they are adjusted. If a servo goes to the end stop and locks up, and you try to push it more, all you will do is draw more out of the battery because it can't move any further.

Check your servo linkage and make sure you are not running to the end stops when you use the controls (Rudder and Elevator.. if it has Ailerons, that too). When you move the individual stick, Rudder for instance, move it slowly all the way while looking at the rudder. If the servo goes all the way to the end and stops moving and you still have more stick movement, then it's not adjusted right. Adjust the controls so that when you move the stick all the way, the servo is not fully deflected to the end stops. This can be adjusted by moving the linkage on either end so that it does not lock up the servo when fully deflected.

CGr.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

So if the rudder works does that meanthat its <span word="binded" splc="splc" state="edited">bind</span>. Everything works fine except the engine sputters and thenpowersup. The motor is not in reverse. I believe the servos are working right. I have listen to the same plane on youtube and I noticed that my engine is not near as loud as the one in the videos. The other areas are the receiver and esc. Is there a way to test both of these.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

CGRetired is most likely to be correct in his assessment that the battery does not have enough capacity to sustain the load imposed upon it.

Melnick123, don't assume that "sputtering" has anything to do with it.

What you believe is "sputtering" indicates that the ESC's timing MAY be off a bit and may need reprogramming... however that is unlikely.

The ESC may be perfectly fine for your motor as is, you are just not used to the idiosyncracies of motors.


You should borrow a WATT meter from a fellow electric flyer and put it between your battery and ESC.

Then run the plane up to full throttle and observe the maximum amount of WATTS/AMPS the motor draws and the voltage.

If you are running a 3S pack, and the voltage drops to say 10.4v then the battery simply doesn't have enough power to supply the required energy to the motor.

If on the other hand your motor is rated at 200 watts and the highest draw you see on the watt meter is say 120 watts, then your prop is too small, so you are not getting enough power out of the plane.

If the motor is rated at 200 watts and the highest draw you see is over 200 watts, then your prop is too large and it may ruin the ESC, motor and battery..



All of that said, some ESC's "learn" the throttle range of the TX, and sometimes when you start changing things, the ESC may not remember the full range of the TX... in a situation such as this you must do the proceedure documented in the ESC's manual on how to retrain it for the throttle range...

I'll put my money on the battery pack issue though.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

The <span class="squiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word" word="skyhawk" splc="splc" state="new">skyhawk</span> is a stock trainer plane. I have already replace the balance charger and the <span class="squiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word" word="11.1v" splc="splc" state="new">11.1v</span> battery so I know the battery's are fully charge. As for the motor, I am hoping the <span class="squiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word" word="dynam" splc="splc" state="new">dynam</span> put the right motor with the right battery and so on.I have tested all three batteries and they are fine. The first three days the plane was up and away and now I have this issues. If the esc is off thenhow can I check that.New plane, new battery and receivers. When I tested the receiver, the receiver red light would blink fast then go solid, the <span class="squiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word" word="tx" splc="splc" state="new">tx</span> light blinks red. I was told this was not good. I am missing something between the esc, reviver and <span class="squiggly" title="To see spelling suggestions, click this word" word="tx" splc="splc" state="new">tx</span>.When I get hold of a meter I will check the watts on the esc. . Thank you.</p>

RE: hawk sky binding
 

No this has nothing to do with "fully charge" or the charge state.

It is very likely that the batteries you are using simply cannot keep up with the demands upon it.... but we do not know for certain.

The fact that you flew it fine for a while, then had a problem also hints that the battery pack itself is at fault.

Manufacturers tend to use the smallest packs they can get away with, so it often is barely enough. Add a bit of a problem, and you'll get a bad cell which will cause what you are seeing.

Did you check the temperature of the battery packs you used after you flew the plane?

Were the batteries very warm, and/or did they get squishy or "puffy"?


You should replace the pack with a higher capacity pack of the same type and voltage.

A WATT meter will tell you what is going on definitively.

If you run the motor up with the prop installed, and the voltage drops below the battery packs rated voltage, you KNOW the batteries are to blame... if you using the original prop.

If the voltage drops, the RPM's of the motor drops, and the corresponding power you see in the plane also drops.



The blinking red light means that the receiver at some point has lost the signal from the transmitter.

This can be normal if you've been disconnecting and reconnecting the battery in the plane.

The light is unlikely to be related to your problem, especially if the control surfaces are moving.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

ESC's on the Dynam Hawk Sky's are known to be sometimes defective. Mine kept cutting out on my first flight. I upgrated to a 36A {larger for future bigger motor] and everything is fine now.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

I also had problems with not being able to get full power. Take the prop off and see if you get full power. If you do then you mayhave a wire connection problem and should resolder.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

You don't understand the physics here. The power drawn by the system... system is the battery, ESC, Motor, and the prop, is as a unit, meaning everythiing contributes to the power consumed. This is how you measure the current draw, as a unit, using something like a "Wattsup" watt meter.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLMV0&P=ML

Remove the prop and you have no load and the motor will turn at it's KV rating. The current draw will be minimum. Solder joints do not make one bit of difference. The chances of a cold solder joint on an ESC from the factory are so slight that it's just not worthy of consideration.

In other words, put the soldering iron away and look elsewhere.

Look at the sketch I've attached here. This will give you the best indication of what may be going on here. And, I can almost 100% gurantee that it has nothing to do with solder joints, unless you have already messed with them. If you have, well, all bets are off.

CGr.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

Ailerond, rudder and elevator worked fine with or without the prop.
All's I know is the throttle on my HS would only go about 1/2 way and would quit.The motorwasalso heating up with the prop on. Someone on here suggested it might be a poor solder connection and to take the prop off and see what happened. Idid so and the motor ran wide open without the prop! Resoldered everything and motor runs fine now.

RE: hawk sky binding
 

I started out with a 1800 11.1v, then upgraded to a 2200 bat. If the 1800 was enogh power then the 2200 should be more then I need.