Question
 

Hello all! I am new here and this site is the greatest! I just bought my first plane. It is a Piper SuperCub Kit and I am in the middle of putting it together. I have laid out the plans and put wax paper over the plans. I than build my airplane over the wax paper. My problem is that the parts are sticking to the wax paper in places when I remove the part. Is this normal? Is there a way to prevent it and what is the best way to remove the wax from the balsa wood. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Bill

RE: Question
 

Bill
get your self some plastic for windows at your local supply store and throw the wax paper in the trash. CA will not stick and it is cheap;)
Edit
I for got to say the CA gets hot when it cures and melts the wax and it will bond to the paper[:@][:@][>:]

RE: Question
 

Ditto what RCHawk had to say. You can find the plastic sheeting in the painting section of Lowe's/Home Depot or Wal-mart. Get the 3 or 4 mil thickness. One roll is enough to do about 7-8 (or more) planes.

Hope this helps

Ken

RE: Question
 

Welcome to RCU Bill!

I find that waxed paper works fine. If you're sticking, you're using too much CA!

You may still get a small amount of sticking, but that can be removed with a razor, or sandpaper.

RE: Question
 

Thanks heaps... I will try all your suggestions although I have a feeling I am using too much glue.

RE: Question
 

is this first plane as in first period, or first kit? a cub was a bad idea for a first plane(although it will be a fun build....)

RE: Question
 

first plane, first kit... It is a rubberband flyer that I bought for $10 bucks. I had my eye on a F6F but the guy at the store said I should start with this one. It is one of those Guillian? models. I was wondering if you could put a small electric motor in it but I somehow doubt it. It has no moveable surfaces. I am just trying to learn on this one (building that is) I am having a blast. RC airplanes is what I have always wanted to do, but never found the time.

RE: Question
 

HI BILL,CHECK this for a look at a GUILLOW`S KIT.This one is sheeted with1/32`nd balsa. Building it with/for, nephews. You might get a few ideas , and answers here....DAVE B.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3182877/tm.htm

RE: Question
 

that link shows not available, if there is another way to get to it, I would love to view it..

RE: Question
 

got it now Bill, sorry about that ..GIVE `it a click...D.B.

RE: Question
 

AH i gotcha, i thought we were talking R/c lol:) sorry ill sht up now :)

RE: Question
 

I have heard that wax paper has a side that is more waxy than the other. Not sure which but I use wax paper and it works fine. Not worth it in my opinion to go out and spend more money on plastic. It stick on me some times as well just oull it off real slow and it usually comes off.

RE: Question
 

Well Bill, just so you know...

If you can build a Guillow's kit and do a reasonably good job, you'll have NO trouble building a respectable R/C Trainer from one of today's kits.

RE: Question
 

Jonesy is correct, one side of the paper is waxed, the other is not; keep the waxed side up. And, yes, to much CA will cause the noted problem.

RE: Question
 

I have another question, are most airplanes including the giant ones, in regards to the framing is balsa pretty much it, or can you buy kits with other types of materials and what is the most common and best way to go. I am mostly interested in warbirds, My next project I want to tackle is an F6F with a 36 to 50 inch wingspan. What kit would you guys suggest. Hobby Lobby had a Guillows fit for $42. Also in regards to jets which is what I would like to do in the future, what materials do you use to build them? sorry for all the questions as I am pretty new to this hobby.

RE: Question
 

Bill, if you actually want to FLY these after you build them, I would recommend you avoid Guillows kits. You should also stay clear of warbirds for a while - You need to learn to walk before you can run, and believe me, flying warbirds is running.

Look into a basic trainer kit such as the Sig LT-40, Great Planes PT-40, Tower Trainer, Etc. (There are way too many to list, ask around)

Once you have mastered a basic trainer, you'll need to step up to an intermediate trainer.

The rest depends on your skills. If you pick it up quickly, you may be ready for that warbird at that point, some people may need another plane or two before they're ready for a warbird.

RE: Question
 

OK, I have been working on a gameplan on the best way to get started in this hobby. I have joined a club and I purchased a used Hobbico Avisatar 40 trainer this weekend for $125. You guys were right in all of your advice. I am going to steer clear of Guillows because I do want to fly them, although they make pretty nice static models. anyways in my adventures I am taking my time setting up this airplane to fly, I have started it up to get a feel for the motor and taxing it around the driveway to get a feel for the controls while it is on the ground. with wing off because I am too big of a chicken just yet. anyways on to my question I was able to find tech data on this aircraft as well as a user manual and it says the Center of Gravity is 3 1/4. What is the 3 1/4? also what is Elevator, Aileron and Rudder throw? also it gives 2 numbers High rate and low rate. for instance Elevator throw high rate is 3/8 up 1/4 down and low rate is 1/4 down. any explantions would be helpful or maybe you can direct me to a website with info such as this and other techinal jargon. Thanks for all your tips and ideas. It has made my entry into this hobby a bit easier and this site is a wonderful resource.

Bill

RE: Question
 

a picture of my trainer

RE: Question
 

HI Bill that center of gravity means you measure "Back" on the wings, from the Leading edge, the stated measurement .Yours is 3 1/4 " THAT is the point ,where you want your plane ,to balance..

The high rate :is when you activate ,your high rate switch (dual rate),, on your radio transmiter. NOT all radios have this feature.does yours.?.. Normally giving a larger total movement, of the effected control surfaces on the air craft.......When switched to high rate, you`ll have a greater Total movement, of those surfaces,than if switched to LOW rate


High rate is: 3/8" up, and,1/4" down, from it`s "neutral position"

LOW RATE: also up, and down, from your "neutral position",. You need to check your manual closer for the measurements .Your post only has half the specs in it. But it`s the same sort of principal as the high rate. I hope that this is, begining to make a little more sense to you now DAVE B.

P.S If your TX doesn`t have the dual rate switch, you can split the differences between the, low and high. suggested rates to have a happy medium.You`ll need to make those adjustments, on your planes linkages. I`m thinking though if the plane came with a radio and reciever that it would be already set up for you...A , BIG , BUT here, it is wise to keep an eye on these sorts of things and to check to be sure things are correct..AN awful lot of wrecks over this type of stuff D.B.

RE: Question
 

I have a OS .40. How can I tell the dif between a FX and LA.

RE: Question
 

I can tell the difference. It's an LA. The FX (and AX) are not made in blue.

-Scott

RE: Question
 

Bingo, we have a winner.

Yep, only the LA's are made in blue.

Ken

RE: Question
 

Ken-

So what's my prize? :D

-Scott

RE: Question
 

Scott,
Prize?? Hmmm, an official RCU "Attaboy" for getting the correct answer??? :D

Ken

RE: Question
 

Thanks, but I'll pass. It would have to be a tougher question to deserve that.:D