MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

COULD NOT CONTAIN MYSELF FROM BUILDING THE KADET LT-40 ANY LONGER :D.

I have heard so many great things about this trainer [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif] that I am determined that this will be the one I finish to it’s end and have it completed and ready for flying by Spring (assuming I find an instructor in my area by then). That gives me quite a long time to take my time with it.

Ken, I will be following your thread committedly (don’t know if that is actually a word but it fits), and, HOPE YOU DON'T MIND, I will be using it as a kind of personalized instructional guide to my building (I will be certain not to do anything wrong now :D).

PHOTOS 1, 2 & 3: My new Kadet LT-40. Delivered all in one piece from cwrr5. Thank you so much.

PHOTO 4: I love the pre-drilled firewall. So convenient and much easier on me.

PHOTOS 5, 6 & 7: Inventory check - All parts checked off and accounted for.

PHOTOS 8 & 9: Damage report – Rudder deep gouge ride side and small nick at tip. Filled gouge with spackle. Very bad quality laser-cut on plywood sheet #13 (wingtip plate [WTP]/fuselage front [FS-F]) This wing tip plate was cracked and filled with some kind of filler and had to be cut out very carefully as to not break it further. But I think I was able to save it by gluing it with gap-filling CA Pacer.

PHOTO 10: Hardware package 1 which consists of (from top) 8 nylon R/C control links, nosegear steering arm, nosegear bearing, landing gear straps, CA hinges, aileron connectors, medium and small control horn, pushrod connectors w/retainers.

[sm=confused.gif] PLEASE GIVE YOUR OPINIONS ON THE FOLLOWING MATTER: Thank you!!!

Although the LT-40 comes complete with a bag of 4 pushrod connectors I am thinking of using
A] Z-bends at the servo end of the throttle and the steering arm of the nosegear.
B] Nylon R/C control links at the servo end of the nosegear steering arm and at the engine end of the throttle.
C] Z-bends to connect the aileron pushrods to the servo instead of soldering.

I am doing this cause I don’t know the trustworthiness of the nylon retainers on the 4 included pushrod connectors. So with this in perspective I have 8 nylon R/C control links instead of the 6 (2 for both ends of the elevator, 2 for both ends of the rudder, 2 for ailerons, 1 for throttle and 1 for steering arm). Unless someone convinces me that the nylon retainers are reliable and will stay on and put my mind at ease the changes will take effect. [sm=confused.gif]

PHOTO 11: Hardware 2. [Numbered parts in container lid in photo – 1,2,3,4,5,6 = various screws and bolts, 7 = pkg of 6 wheel collars, 8 = 4 small blindnuts for the nosegear bearing, 9 = 4 medium blindnuts for the engine mounts, 10 = 4 locknuts for the engine being mounted onto the engine mounts]. And all the other various parts, you know what they are.

P.S: I am seriously considering becoming an upgraded full-member to this great community of RCU. Any info on this will be greatly appreciated. Fees, benefits, what-have-you.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

You really didn’t think I would be able to stay away from building this baby did you? :D

PHOTO 1: Tail feather parts (stabilizer/elevator, fin/rudder) marked and organized.

PHOTO 2: Fuselage parts marked and organized. Lots of wood on this fuselage huh?

PHOTO 3: Wing panel parts marked and organized.

PHOTO 4: Misc. hardware and equipment. Futaba T4EXA, A.S.P .46, and decided to go with rubber tires instead of the included plastic.

PHOTO 5: The full assemble labeled, organized and ready for when I start building.

PHOTO 6: Even remembered to save the scraps [sm=thumbup.gif].

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

I would contact Sig about the damaged parts. I haven't ordered anything from them yet, but the answers I received about parts for a plane I'm SLOWLY scratch building were very helpful and quickly sent by their CS department.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

I agree with Hydro Junkie about contacting SIG about damaged parts. Give them the part numbers as called out in the plans. I don't like spackle. Did you try to raise the gouge with water? A little wood filler would have been better than spackle as it doesnt shrink and can be bought in balsa color so as not to show thru covering. You can make your own with balsa dust and wood glue.
Ask Ken about the specific hardware provided in the kit.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

You filled the boo boos with wall spackling?
That's too heavy. Get some balsa filler--balsa-rite works great, and is as light as balsa, or lighter!

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Oh no, my first booboo and I haven't even started the build yet, not looking good already :D

Thank you bruce & 2slow2matter
- wood glue and balsa dust. Sounds good but isn't wood glue (I use titebond II) hard to sand? And it stains the wood? I have had difficulties sanding titebond. Balsarite I tried and I find it to be a pain to press into gouges and gaps. Is there a better wood filler or a way to make Balsarite easier to press into gabs without it crumbling back out again when you smooth it? I used the Balsarite straight from the can, was that wrong?

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Have you called SIG? I have no problem sanding Tite Bond II, it is what I use also. Much easier than any CA too. Not sure how well it will adhere to spackle either, did you get all of it off? You could also just cut a new piece from a piece of sheet stock if it is too tough. Use old part for template.

Time for me to go home. Talk to you in morning. Hope problem resolved by then. Don't jump to solutions without asking unless absolutely sure. You have lots of time, use it. :)

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

No problem - I can remove the spackle and replace it with the titebond/balsa mix. QUESTION: Is the sawdust you buy for animal's cages and tanks OK to use if I can't find enough balsa for all my goofs? Or is that not fine enough?

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

I'd sand up a little pile of balsa dust using scraps from the kit. 80 grit paper will make quite a pile in a couple of minutes.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Z-bends all the way. There is no better method. Of course you need a clevis on one end, but z-bends at the servos (and nosegear) are ideal.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Mix the balsarite with just a little bit of water to soften it up and make it a little thinner so you can smear it on. Not so thin that it won't stick though...

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Yes, if you mix a little water with your balsa rite, it will just melt right into the hole. I've found that if you put a little pile of balsa rite in a small mixing cup, then just wet your fingertip and stir it into the filler--will soften right up. Put the filler on the wood, and scrape off with a credit card--will make a nice smooth surface that will require very little, if any, sanding. If it's a deep gouge, then apply a couple of thinner coats to facilitate drying. balsa Rite rocks, once you learn to use it. I was very frustrated and hated it at first, until I learned the little water trick. Careful, though, a little water (read, just on your fingertip) goes a LONG WAY!
Talk about sanding, man does that stuff sand!!!

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

I knew you couldn't wait!!!! :D

Filler isn't really a big deal for such a small area, most of it will be gone when you sand it down. I use micro baloons for larger areas - it adds almost zero weight and sand really easy. Doesn't taste very good though... [&o]

balsa dust & glue works well too, and cheap.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Sandpaper makes dust from scrap or use the wet finger in the balsa rite if you still have some. Either works fine. Did you try a drop of water on the wood and see if the gouge lifted?

I like to put a drop of water on the dent and then apply a Monokote iron to "steam" the wood a little. Usually pops up pretty well. Light sand and done.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Plans, instruction booklet and building supplies needed at this moment are laid out and ready to start construction. The glue I will be using for basic construction will be Titebond II unless otherwise stated. Instead of the usual wax paper covering the plans I am taking the advice of many of my fellow RCU members and using a 2 mil. painter’s drop cloth instead. I also scanned the 3-way diagram of the LT-40 into my computer that was supplied from Ken’s thread (thank you Ken) so I can begin thinking of a design.

Began by gluing the spar doublers onto the ends of the top and bottom main spars of the left wing panel.

PHOTOS:
1) Plans, instruction booklet and building supplies laid out. I am using two contractor’s ceiling tiles doubled up for the building board.
2) Spar doublers glued to the top and bottom main spars.
3) Wiping excess glue around the doubler.
4) Main spars now getting their drying time.
5) Studying and planning ahead in the instruction booklet while the main spars dry.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

I measured and re-measured the cutoffs of the bottom main and rear spars at the inboard end. Boy was Ken right about measuring and re-measuring :D. The first mark on the main spar was off a bit. Glad I am following his advice, getting the measurements perfected before doing the cutting and sanding. Still using Titebond II for the main structure unless otherwise noted.

PHOTOS:
1) Measured and re-measured the cutoff mark.
2) Cutting the excess tip off the bottom main spar at the mark indicated on the plans.
3) Sanding to the pencil mark.
4) Perfect at the root end.
5) Perfect at the tip end.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Bottom spar is now pinned in place on the plans for the next step. WS-B2 bottom wing sheeting glued and pinned in place, flush up against bottom main spar. Balsa bottom rear spar was next to be pinned in place while glued to WS-B2 bottom sheeting. Wing sheeting WS-B3 follows suit and is glued to the back of rear spar and the front of pre-formed trailing edge (T.E) and pinned in place.

PHOTOS:
1) Bottom main spar pinned in place.
2) WS-B2 sheeting glued and pinned.
3 & 4) Rear spar glued to WS-B2, and WS-B3 pinned and glued in place.
5) All the rib notches lined up perfectly to the rib locations on the plans.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

First two ribs (W2 & W3) are pinned and glued in place with Titebond II while keeping the alignment squared. The spacing is perfect above the ribs to fit the sheeting in. Ending the night with the first of the SW-2 and SW-3 shear webs glued in place. Unlike other models where the shear webs have not been wide enough to fully fit between the ribs, the LT-40 webs are perfectly cut to size to fit snug between the ribs. And I love the way the ribs and then the webs are placed in line one after the other, instead of the basic RIBS first and then the webs. All holds itself together as you go along. [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

So far the alignment of this kit is fantastic, all pieces fitting right into place. This airplane is so fun and easy to build. I LOVE IT.

PHOTOS:
1,2 & 3) First two ribs glued in place.
4 & 5) The first SW-2 and SW-3 shear webs glued in place.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Problem - - - The SW-2 shear web before the first W5 rib left a gap between where the web ended and where the plans say the rib goes. The spar doubler extended about 1/8” longer than the SW-2.

Solution - - - No big issue as I just removed about ¼” from the spar tab on the rib so it would fit proper into the way the construction and alignment of the rib ended up being. Tested the fit before gluing after the tiny modification. Perfect fit now and aligned with the rib location on the plans. Glued the W5 in place after being satisfied with the fit, squared nicely to a 90% angle. These L-brackets make great tools for squaring the ribs, fuselage and other parts that have to be at 90% angle. Gotta get more, especially the small L-braces. Like the clamps I can not do without these little helpers.

The first of the SW-1 shear webs and another SW-3 web glued in place. Unfortunately I don’t have the privilege of having presses for keeping pieces like these flat against the spar so I have to use the old tape method.

NOTE: I really love using the painter’s drop cloth over the plans compared to wax paper. I will never use wax paper again. Don’t know about CA or epoxy, but the Titebond glue peels right off the plastic.

PHOTOS:
1, 2 & 3) spar longer than anticipated it was SO . . .
4 & 5) . . . removed ¼” from the tab on the first W5 rib.
6, 7 & 8) testing the fit before gluing.
9, 10 & 11) W5 rib glued in place.
12) shear webs in place.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Jumped ahead a bit and test-fit (without glue) the remainder of the W5 ribs. Looks good so ahead with the gluing and webbing.

Later that day - - - All ribs except the last three are glued in place. Gonna take a coffee break and maybe get back to doing a little more.

PHOTOS:
1 & 2) test-fitting the remainder of the ribs.
3 & 4) all but three ribs glued in.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

good thread going on here but I think I may see some structural problems. Now, I'm not a kit builder and my experience is limited to a pair of SIG Something Extra's but I do understand the need for strength in certain areas.

In post number 19 pics numbered 1,2,3. Should you be cutting the spar dblr to fit per the planes or should you be cutting the rib. The ribs are already light balsa so cutting them may present strength problems on the rib.

In post 18 pics 2 and 3, it looks like a rather big gap between the first rib and the spar where the rib is notched to fit over the spar

I also noticed this thread is starting to look very similiar to the PIF build thread with the layouts, graphic editing and stuff.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

I agree the thread is going well. Let me see if I can answer your questions. I'm betting the spar doubler is about 1/8 inch too long at that end, often the root end gets sanded flush at the finish. However, as long as he gets a glue joint all around the rib/spar joint I don't believe there will be a strength problem here. EXACTLY where does the plan show the doubler ending? Which side of the rib? Use that point when laying out the other wing.

With reference to the gaps noticed in post #18, I'd guess that the extra opening will be filled later with the dihedral braces. I could be wrong. Make sure you don't accidentally fill them and leave no room for the braces. NOW would be a good time to double check that. Easy to remove any excess now, avoid in other wing.

Am I right Tigerdude

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Post 19, Looks like it's a mis-cut part from the kit. As long as the spar is a tight fit into the rib, it should be plenty strong. Either way is probably fine(cut spar doubler or cut rib). The ribs add more stength chord-wise than span wise, and there's plenty of material left between the spar cut-outs still. Remember there's still a top spar and shear webbing to add to the structure, which will greatly increase the strength of the wing at that joint.

Post 18, I believe that gap on each side of the spar is to leave space for the dihedral braces, which are added later? Maybe tigerdude can clarify that from the instructions?

Looks like the build is going well so far, keep it up! [sm=thumbup.gif]

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

I've had someone I know check a copy of plans/instructions they have and they say that the double is definitely supposed to end BEFORE the rib which would have made the alteration un-needed. Check the instructions.

RE: MY KADET LT-40 BUILD
 

Yes, bruce, you are entirely right!!! According to the plans everything is as marked an done in the pics. And there is a solid fit around the tabs of the rib I cut. Very solid bond.

That is where the dihedral wing joiners go when the two wing panels slide together.

The cut was so minor, only bout 1/4" that it is not sufficient enough to weaken it.

I am NOT stealing Ken's thread or ideas if that is what you are getting at. If you were not referring to that or accusing me I am sorry for giving that idea. cwrr5 has asked me (because he is the one who sent me the kit) if I can do a detailed cwrr5-style building thread, which I agreed. I am, however, (I admit) using Ken's building thread as a help guide for building mine (which is one of his intended purposes for doing his thread). But I am NOT plagirizing [spelling ???] his article.