ARC Jupiter
 

Currently putting together a ARC Jupiter kit ive looked over all the steps for construction & there isnt a single picture or any mention on where to mount the engine. Has anyone built this kit or have an idea where on the mount the engine should be?

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I'd put it up front somewhere. :D

Sorry, couldn't resist being the first to say that. I'll do some research and see what I can find.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

:eek:

Man, there's got to be one in every crowd!!! :D:D

I don't have any experience with this plane. Does this come with the engine mounts with the plane, or do you have to provide those yourself? Is the firewall pre-drilled for an engine mount? Does the firewall have a center mark on it (usually an "+" shape on the front to of the firewall). I'm asking these questions to hopefully get some info to try and help you out here.

Ken

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Sorry again for the above. Is the plane the one listed in this page?
http://www.hobbyhorse.com/falcon_kits.shtml

Is ARC the brand name or does it stand for "Almost Ready to Cover"?

You have not given much to work with.

Ken's question about the cross on the firewall is excellent though. It would indicate the thrust centerline if it is there. May be hard to see, so look closely. If it is there, you could determine the mount locations.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Hey guys the model is made by ARC Modelfly sorry for not including the full title. Right the whole plane is made of some kind of plastic not sure what? The firewall doesn't have a + on it. There was 3 dimples which you drill through for the mounting screws. There is a motor mount ring which is glued on the opposite side of the firewall it has 3 nuts on it which line up with the holes i previously drilled. there is a engine mount which came with the kit this also has the 3 holes so the whole assembly secures together with 3 bolts which fasten through the motor mount ring on the inside of the fuse. The engine mount can only be mounted 1 way due to the large hole cut in the right handside of the fuse for the engine to stick out. so its just a case of figuring out how far along the mount do i position the engine. Ofcourse the spinner has to clear the opening but how much of a gap should it be? The instructions for the kit are not the best in the world the pics are way to small can't figure out what half of them are.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

A gap of 1/16-1/8 INCH would be fine.

If this has a "clamp type" mount:
1- try to assemble to motor/prop/spinner assy and slide it into place. May need to assemble in place in some a/c.
2- Loosely install the clamps so the engine can slide a bit.
3- position the engine assy for desired clearance.
4- tighten screws in clamps

If not clamp type, do steps 1 & 3. Then mark where holes need to be drilled. Remove motor and drill holes. Mount engine.

You can usually leave the muffler off until last but not always

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Thanks bruce will do what you say. Never had a kit yet that hasn't explained the mounting position of the engine. Im sure i will in time know how to position it without instructions, still learning at the moment. oh ive just had another thought the instructions say the C of G is between 85-90mm from the leading edge of the wing but where exactly on the wing is that ? They dont specify a particular part of the wing for example on a P-51 the balace point is normally behind where wing leading edge angles. Should the wing have a specified CofG point ? there isn't even a pic of where it should be located? Gets quite frustrating concidering this is supposed to be a beginner/intermediate kit.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

AAC --- That question about the engine mount was a real good one ( I think ). I've assembled about 6 of the Jupiters and NEVER even noticed that they didn't explain in detail how to mount the engine. Iv'e done all their planes and it's not on any of them.

On mine ( OS 46 ) the front
ear of the engine sets back from the front of the mount just under 1/4 inch, that puts the ears of the engine about center in the mount and leaves about 3/8 inch from the nose of the cowl to the back of the prop. That also leaves enough room to get the fuel lines out from behind the engine.

As far as the CG goes: measure the 85 - 90 mm back from the wing leading edge at the fuseledge and you should be good, that's where all mine were measured. If you are new to flying I suggest you stick close to the 85 now and maybe shift it back when you get some stick time on it. This plane can be very Aerobatic if you want it to but it can also be pretty forgiving, they are neat planes and I've ENJOYED them for years.

By the way they are made out of a special formulated ABS plastic that makes the material soft and some what plyable keeping them from cracking etc. like some of the older plastic planes did. With CARE you can reform some areas with a heat gun but you have to be REAL CAREFULL with the heat.

I hope this helps and I'm sure you will ENJOY your Jupiter as much as I have all of mine. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I've never seen a Jupiter in person but from the picture it looks like a straight wing (no sweep) so it doesn't really matter where you measure the CG from along the wing. It will be physically easiest right next to the fuselage as suggested by Red Head. Most of the members seem to agree that low wing planes should be balanced inverted (unless the manual says otherwise) and I have a hunch the manual has little to say about this either. I usually just put a piece of tape on the wing in the approx correct area. Measure and mark the tape with the correct point and then suspend the plane on the balancing points. Balance by moving receiver and/or battery as first options before adding additional weights.
I also agree on the 85mm. A tail heavy plane can be a real hand full to fly.

Good luck.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Hey Red not sure if you still the jupiter or the instructions for it but i seem to have 2 little plastic nipples left over for the kit. They are identified by the letter V on the molded part there is no mention anywhere in the instructions what they are for? Did you find a use for them?

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

On the ready2 trainer the two plastic nipples are used to fill the holes drilled to allow the undercarriage legs to be screwed to the bulkhead. The undercarriage is the same on the Jupiter and I presume that the hole drilling exercise is the same on this model. Hope this helps.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

So they are to keep fuel/oil out of the interior?

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I guess so, plus grass, mud/dust and so on. However, given that the suspension legs can (and often do) snap, it would be unwise to glue these nipples in place too effectively!

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

AAC --- I'm sorry but I don't remember any nipple types with a V on them and I just looked in my junk box and there aren't any there. I took a quick look at the plans but didn't see anything, will look further if I get a chance.
I do have some little dome types with a short leg off the bottom of the dome and those were for the early Ready's and were probably just left on the mold block. They were for the holes in the wing tips and could be painted so they gave the impression of wing tip lights. The Jupiter didn't have them but they were on the mold block.

Checkmate -- I don't have the Ready 11 but the only change was in the trim from the original except possibly that they didn't have the holes in the wing anymore ( Ready & Jupiter -- same wing just a different center section ). On the Ready when you drill the holes to screw the landing gear on you DON'T plug the holes, they stay open for access to the gear with that nice long screw driver they gave you. The Jupiter uses a different system. It has 3 bolts going into the mount and gets tightened with allen wrenches, the Beaver also uses allen bolts.

Bruce --- See the comment for Checkmate

Hope this helped but I don't know how !!! I can't do pictures but if you can I might remember seeing them. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Thanks red i'll just leave the nipples out :D couldnt resist hehe ive checked the model over & there is nowhere they could go, maybe they are left over from the mold. I test fit the wing today & tightened up the plastic bolt as tight as it would go but i still seem to get some play either way with the wing, this will cause me probs when trying to check alignment of the elevator with the wing tips [&o] looked everywhere for a steel bolt as the plastic one is fast loosing its thread but no look hmm i'll just leave it & hope it sorts itself.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

AAC --- you shouldn't need a metal bolt for your wing, I've been using the nylon bolt that comes with the plane for years. I did replace the one I have now as I had used it a LONG time and it was getting hard to tighten. You may have to tighten it a few times and maybe even reef on it a bit. I sometimes think I'm tightening it to much but in about 8 years I've never broke one ( except on a hard ground loop when the wind got the Ready ).
I have a coin that fits the slot of the bolt that I filed flat on one side that I use to tighten mine. If you can find a Canadian quarter they work great and just go along with your change in the pocket. Just don't try to buy anything with it, the stores have NO sence of humor for some reason.
When you get really comfortable with the plane get back to me and I'll tell you how to Have some real fun with it, but not till you are REAL comfortable with it.
Another little hint I forgot about : I don't know if you SCORED all your glue areas or not I hope so but anyway -- On your landing gear bulkhead -- go back in and run some more medium CA all along the mount edges. They have a tendency to loosen up after a while. I've had to go back and reglue one. Not from hard landings, just rough ground --- --- and if you believe that I've got a couple bridges I'd like to sell you. ( ha ha ) Hope this helps and keep us informed how you are doing. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

hi just orderd a jupiter its my first low wing i was wondering if my thunder tiger gp 42 would power it ,i have got a irvine 53 but i think that would be to fast for my first flights prob end up in a tree (only been flying gas 1 month) :D

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

The 42 should fly it fine especially for some one new. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

thanks for that red one more question what prop size should i use for my gp42 and irvine 53 on this plane:)

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

On the 42 I'd lean toward a 10 X6 or 10 X 5 And on the 53 I'd start with an 11 X 6 or 11 X 5. These would just be starting points as you will probably want to experiment a bit to see which you like best. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

hello again just puting the jupiter together, there is no bar through the wings to strenthen them is this correct,is there no support for the fuel tank eather apart from packing it full of sponge..will the plane move left and right when taxing with out the tail wheel moveing.thanks for the help [img][/img]

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

SIDAV :
1. There is no bar for the wing. Once the 2 halves are glued (epoxy ) togeather inside the wing joiner it will be super strong. Suggestion : make sure you SCORE all parts to be glued, it gives a better grip for the glue.

2. The rubber gromet on the front of the tank is supposed to fit tight enough that you don't need a support, I still do something like the foam or what ever. I use Styrofoam blocks in some cases, it's light and easy to work with.

3. I don't really understand what you mean by the plane moving left and right without the tail wheel moving ????
RE READ your instructions and REALLY look at the pictures. Your tail wheel steering is controled by linkage off your rudder servo. see pictures # 56, 57 and 60 . Make sure when you pin the tail wheel that you don't squeese the tail wheel mount to tight. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I think i know the parts your talking about, if your not using a fuel valve and have a fuel filler pipe to the tank they are used to plug the pipe so the tank can be pressurised, they provide 2 so you have a spare

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I have flown most of the arc range and the 42 might be a little under powered i personally would go for the irvine, you don;t need to use full throttle

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I agree with red, don;t use a metal bolt on your wings, if you do it makes a hell of a mess if you are unlucky enough to start doing ground aerobatics, don;t worry to much these planes do fly very nicely

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

hello need some advise again,arc jupiter, what degree is the engine serposed to be?,i seem to have to mutch up thrust,havent flown it yet but when i do i want it to be right...thanks si[&:]

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

If you installed the engine mount correctly, it will be right and on that plane it would be pretty hard to screw it up. :D

That engine mount is bolted right to the firewall and the engine is mounted directly to the mount, no spacers etc. If that's how yours is, you should be OK !!! ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Hi Sidav
from memory i think the engine is mounted horizontaly, make sure the mounting lugs on the engine with the screw holes in them are in line with the sides of the engine mount, if you have the engine skewed in the mounting it will give you up or down thrust. hope that sounds clear.
regards Tony

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Hi guys just got this model given to me as a gift, but have no instructions and looks like some one before put it toguether very badly, so i am having to dismantle all the bits and start again! All the glue that was used on the model is kind of coming of and i am not taking any chances... a bit more work but will be better, but need some advice; should i use epoxy or med CA?? If some one was kind to email me a copy of the instructions would be nice!

Many thanks in advance,

Marco

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Well, I've put three of the ARC kits together now, first used epoxy (which fell apart), second used plastic cement (which didnt fall apart) and third used cyano which is holding up fine. Personally I'd go with the chemical glues which really bind the surfaces together, epoxy just seems to sit on top and, once fuel residue gets in the way, eventually falls apart...

I don't have Jupiter instructions (having only put together a ready2 and beaver), check out their website http://www.arcmodelfly.it they appear to be thinking about making instructions available (but not yet), a flying buddy of mine has a jupiter however and I can ask him to see if he still has the instruction sheet if you need it.

Regards,
Andy

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Checkmate91,
Thanks for the help, have scrapped all the old glue off the bits was a major job, now will glue it all again hope will work. Have a ervine 53 should be a good motor for it!? If there are any advice please let me know guys, I do whant to fly this plastic beast this weekend so if I can will post some pictures or video!!!
Once again any tips or mods from the pros, please fire ahead...
Many thanks in advance for your help.

Happy flying ;)

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Hi,

I have the Jupiter. If I remember correctly, there are three plastic pins that you glue into the fuselage to index the firewall to. In other words, you push the firewall up to these pins and the thrust angle for the engine is set. The engine mount is of the ordinary variety. A circular back with two beams which you mount your engine to. It screws to the firewall. You have to grind away at the beams which the engine rests on to get the proper width for your engine.

The Jupiter flies well but it's not my favorite plane. I've been experimenting with my CG but can't get the plane to land smoothly. It really likes to bounce - the springy landing gear doesn't help. The firewall is hollow, unlike the Beaver, which allows the engine to vibrate quite a bit. The wing doesn't index to the fuselage (like the Beaver) - only held on with one bolt. I put some spruce on the wing so that it mates with the inside of the fuselage keeping the wing / fuselage more ridgedly fitted when assembled. Mine has an ASP 61 4-stroke in it, which I really hate (not the engine just the combo). Makes the plane fly slower than I'm used too. Wish I had put a 2-stroke something in it. Eventually I'll change the engine, figure out what's up with the landing, or give the plane away...

PS There's little dimples in the fuselage that you drill out to put the pins into. Pins look like thumb tacks with round heads. Once they are glued in place, push the firewall in place from the wing saddle opening in the fuselage.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

WROB : Try keeping a little more RPM on on your landings. Also set the CG at 85 mm and it should work fine.
They do have a tendency to bounce a bit if you are to slow. I've owned a few of them and I really enjoyed them.

I never had a vibration problem either, but I never had a 4cyl on mine either, sounds like you may have a problem maybe with the prop or the way you mounted the engine.

As far as indexing the wing, if it's set in right and tightened tight, you won't have a problem. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Cool... I'll check my CG this weekend. I've already put Dave Brown low bounce tires on it - no help.

Ocassionally, I've seen posts on the web complaining about wearing out the plastic bolt. I'll eventually have to go to a steel one, so that I don't worry about it. I figure keeping the wing as stable as possible will take some wear off that bolt. I'm working on a Four Star 120 right now. Can't find a prop reamer that's 10mm locally - I'm stuck. Will problably have time to look at the Jupiter this weekend. The weather here is very windy.

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I don't suggest a steel bolt !!!! That's a good way to really mess up a good plane. I have flown ARC planes for years and have only had to replace one bolt and that was because I caught a wing tip and twisted the wing around and streached the bolt. If you put metal ones in you will most likely end up tearing out some of the interior structure.

I hate to rain on some of your parades but ARC puts out a GREAT plane if you don't try to fix it your way. Ever hear the saying " if it works don't fix it ". Put their planes togeather the way they say and just GO FLY THEM.
ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

The company is Modelfly...

Here's a review where a guy has been through three of these and had bad results with the plastic screw.

http://www.flyingsites.co.uk/reviews/arcbeaver.htm

If you get your hands on a Beaver, a model introduced later than the Jupiter, you'll see that Modelfly has incorporated the changes to the wing saddle and firewall.

The Jupiter is my windy day plane. Nothing to write home about. Build and fly yours how you want (LOL).

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

WROB : check your instructions for the Beaver and just above picture #1 is the logo !!! Modelfly / ARC The first planes sent to the US were labeled ARC but due to the confusion ( ARC meaning almost ready to cover in the US market at the time ) the ARC wasn't always used in the States trying to keep the confusion down. Modelfly was used in most adds. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Anybody know where to buy a jupiter or carousel in U.S.A. model fly said hobby people they only have ready and beaver and said they will not be ordering anymore with arc THANKS

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

I don't know of anyone in the U.S. selling any of the modelfly planes but I did hear that Thunder Tiger was going to handle them for what that's worth. ENJOY !!! RED

RE: ARC Jupiter
 

Does anyone have the instructions for putting together the Jupiter? I just picked one up and it does not have instructions.