Fudge

My Feedback: (104)

I jusy bought a 1982 boat with a in?out board drive, and every time I hit it into revese it chokes and dies, and ideas?
it works perfect ir forward thought, but also dies in forward when driving slow for more than 2 minutes, so trolling is impossble!!
any ideas?
lmk!

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

You should provide more info then "it dies"..
What outdrive & what motor, being specific.

Fudge

My Feedback: (104)

it has a 4 cyclinder engine not sure what size, but if you go all the way in revese it ckokes but catches on and engine won't die, but if you need to back up slower it chokes and dies!!!
And about the out drive I'm not sure, the dud I got it from has no idea about boats (I don't know that much either) and the only paper work I got was a bill of sale!!
but the engine idles REALLY low to if that helps!!!
it sounds like a car with a clogged fuel filter!!
I was thinking that's what is was but not sure if boats have them!
Well lmk if you still need more info, lmk what U need, a nd I'll try to find somthing!

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Boats DO have fuel filters.. Change it..
Next, idle should be about 900 IN GEAR..
Never slowly put into gear.. It causes it to grind..
Just 'slam it in'.. The clutch is more of a 'dampener'
than an actual clutch..
Timing is very important.. You will need to know excat motor for excat specs..
28 to 32 total is usually good.. And check to be sure the advance IS working..

Fudge

My Feedback: (104)

what's advance?
and how do I check it?

Robby

My Feedback: (18)

Advance is inside the dist.

Has two weights that have springs on them..
Make sure the weights move FREELY..
They do not move very far at all,, bit
must be free to work properly..

Fudge

My Feedback: (104)

ok thanx man U've been a great help, I'll check it out, and maybe take it out to C if it work ok, but in the mean time thanx!

on pipe

Probably crap in the carb. Pull the mixture screws out of the base of the carb and spray gumout in there. Follow up with a shot of air from a blowgun if you have access to a compressor. If that doesn't work,
the carb may have to come off of the engine and have the idle circuit cleaned out. They tend to plug first as they are the smallest passages in the carb. Also, when aluminum carburetors corrode they produce a hard, white substance, like that found in the inside of old water pipes. Sometimes it needs to be physically cleaned out. (I use a piece of small diameter stainless wire to poke through the passages.) Do some detective work and follow the path the fuel takes from the float bowl to the mixture screws, running the wire through every single passage. This of course should be done after you are sure it's not losing a cylinder from ignition problems. (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) Also, as Robby said, it doesn't hurt to make sure the advance weights go back to their "start" position. These tend to rust/stick badly on boats. Anyway, start with the mixture screws 1 1/2- 2 turns out, and adjust each one gradually for the smoothest idle. Ross

Fudge

My Feedback: (104)

Wow man you seen to know boat weel, I haven't ven had time to check the advance yet, cause I was stuck in the offic these couple of days, well thanx for your help, I'll let you know if that help anything again thanx!

bdtsr

My Feedback: (5)

Also base timing will be about 8 degrees before top dead center with full timing at 28 to 32 degrees before top dead center. Idle should be about 650rpm in gear, any higher can cause problems with the shift interupt switch making it hard to pull out of gear. Your motor is most likely a 2.5 liter gm engine rated at 120hp. Cruising rpm will be between 3000 and 3500 rpm. Full throttle should be around 4400 rpm. Check your intermediate shift cable (goes from shift plate to outdrive) for sticking. This plate also holds the shift interupt switch. Make sure this switch is not sticking either.