Nitro engine break in question
05-02-2012 | 12:03 PM
#1
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From: Spanaway,
WA
Nitro engine break in question
Hello fellow hobbiests.
I understand it takes 5 tanks of fuel for the break in period. However IM a little fuzzy on what is the best way to opperate your car during those tanks. I think the first tank you just idle through? Not sure if I should slowly increase speeds each tank, or what.
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05-03-2012 | 06:39 AM
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RE: Nitro engine break in question
For the first tank, alternate between idle and a high idle, pulsing the throttle. Second tank, do the same thing. Third tank, drive it around slow, never going over about a quarter throttle. fourth tank, do the same thing. You can start driving it faster during the fifth tank, but it's still a new engine and needs to be treated gently. Don't let it run out of fuel. Right as the tank gets low, plug the exhaust stinger to kill the engine. Between every tank, rotate the flywheel around until the piston is at the bottom, then let it cool.
05-03-2012 | 09:12 AM
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From: Theresa, WI
RE: Nitro engine break in question
ORIGINAL: proanti1
For the first tank, alternate between idle and a high idle, pulsing the throttle. Second tank, do the same thing. Third tank, drive it around slow, never going over about a quarter throttle. fourth tank, do the same thing. You can start driving it faster during the fifth tank, but it's still a new engine and needs to be treated gently. Don't let it run out of fuel. Right as the tank gets low, plug the exhaust stinger to kill the engine. Between every tank, rotate the flywheel around until the piston is at the bottom, then let it cool.
For the first tank, alternate between idle and a high idle, pulsing the throttle. Second tank, do the same thing. Third tank, drive it around slow, never going over about a quarter throttle. fourth tank, do the same thing. You can start driving it faster during the fifth tank, but it's still a new engine and needs to be treated gently. Don't let it run out of fuel. Right as the tank gets low, plug the exhaust stinger to kill the engine. Between every tank, rotate the flywheel around until the piston is at the bottom, then let it cool.
05-03-2012 | 11:21 AM
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From: Sonoma,
CA
RE: Nitro engine break in question
ORIGINAL: gearhead777
Hello fellow hobbiests.
I understand it takes 5 tanks of fuel for the break in period. However IM a little fuzzy on what is the best way to opperate your car during those tanks. I think the first tank you just idle through? Not sure if I should slowly increase speeds each tank, or what.
<span style="font-size: larger">
</span>
Hello fellow hobbiests.
I understand it takes 5 tanks of fuel for the break in period. However IM a little fuzzy on what is the best way to opperate your car during those tanks. I think the first tank you just idle through? Not sure if I should slowly increase speeds each tank, or what.
<span style="font-size: larger">
</span>
Personally, I follow the advise of the Fuelman. He's blended fuel for many years and broken inmore engines than any 8 people on this forum.
Preheat engine to at least200 degrees.
Run engine at least 200 degrees. Wrap the engine head to keep the temp up.
Do not idle tanks of fuel through engine. Run the vehicle on the ground.
Total break inusually takesabout a gallon + or -
Running slightly rich is OK, but low temps will stress the rod (tight pinch)and cause premature wear and failure of the rod.
Set piston to BDC during cool down.
"A good proper ABC type engine break in does not run too lean nor too rich. It involves loading the engine, freewheeling does the engine no appreciable good. Parking the needle at some magical temp displayed on a LED screen is 99% useless. Everything assumes we have some common sense so runaways from servo arms disconnected, bad clutch springs and so on should not be argument pursuaders for or against anything.
Guys, stop trying to re-invent the wheel. What is outlined on the break-in link in one of my previous posts is for the most part what the company that invented the ABC metalurgly / technology back in the mid 1960's came up with to achieve maximum power with longevity. Very very little has changed in the metalurgy and fits of the ABC pistons/ sleeves since then."
FUELMAN
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2786285/tm.htm Check post #5
05-07-2012 | 04:53 AM
#7
RE: Nitro engine break in question
ORIGINAL: nitroexpress
Ask 5 people, get 5 different responses. [img][/img]
Personally, I follow the advise of the Fuelman. He's blended fuel for many years and broken in more engines than any 8 people on this forum.
Preheat engine to at least 200 degrees.
Run engine at least 200 degrees. Wrap the engine head to keep the temp up.
Do not idle tanks of fuel through engine. Run the vehicle on the ground.
Total break in usually takes about a gallon + or -
Running slightly rich is OK, but low temps will stress the rod (tight pinch) and cause premature wear and failure of the rod.
Set piston to BDC during cool down.
''A good proper ABC type engine break in does not run too lean nor too rich. It involves loading the engine, freewheeling does the engine no appreciable good. Parking the needle at some magical temp displayed on a LED screen is 99% useless. Everything assumes we have some common sense so runaways from servo arms disconnected, bad clutch springs and so on should not be argument pursuaders for or against anything.
Guys, stop trying to re-invent the wheel. What is outlined on the break-in link in one of my previous posts is for the most part what the company that invented the ABC metalurgly / technology back in the mid 1960's came up with to achieve maximum power with longevity. Very very little has changed in the metalurgy and fits of the ABC pistons/ sleeves since then.''
FUELMAN
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2786285/tm.htm Check post #5
ORIGINAL: gearhead777
Hello fellow hobbiests.
I understand it takes 5 tanks of fuel for the break in period. However IM a little fuzzy on what is the best way to opperate your car during those tanks. I think the first tank you just idle through? Not sure if I should slowly increase speeds each tank, or what.
<span style=''font-size: larger''>
</span>
Hello fellow hobbiests.
I understand it takes 5 tanks of fuel for the break in period. However IM a little fuzzy on what is the best way to opperate your car during those tanks. I think the first tank you just idle through? Not sure if I should slowly increase speeds each tank, or what.
<span style=''font-size: larger''>
</span>
Personally, I follow the advise of the Fuelman. He's blended fuel for many years and broken in more engines than any 8 people on this forum.
Preheat engine to at least 200 degrees.
Run engine at least 200 degrees. Wrap the engine head to keep the temp up.
Do not idle tanks of fuel through engine. Run the vehicle on the ground.
Total break in usually takes about a gallon + or -
Running slightly rich is OK, but low temps will stress the rod (tight pinch) and cause premature wear and failure of the rod.
Set piston to BDC during cool down.
''A good proper ABC type engine break in does not run too lean nor too rich. It involves loading the engine, freewheeling does the engine no appreciable good. Parking the needle at some magical temp displayed on a LED screen is 99% useless. Everything assumes we have some common sense so runaways from servo arms disconnected, bad clutch springs and so on should not be argument pursuaders for or against anything.
Guys, stop trying to re-invent the wheel. What is outlined on the break-in link in one of my previous posts is for the most part what the company that invented the ABC metalurgly / technology back in the mid 1960's came up with to achieve maximum power with longevity. Very very little has changed in the metalurgy and fits of the ABC pistons/ sleeves since then.''
FUELMAN
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2786285/tm.htm Check post #5
ABC airplane engines are ran at WOT slightly rich with 1" less diameter prop than the flying prop right out of the box. I know some guys have ABC engines they got in the 70's and 80's new and are still on the original bearings and piston/liner. That says something about the method. +1 for Fuelman's method.
