engine rebuild signs?
#1
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engine rebuild signs?
My force .26, from an ofna 9.5, is not behaving correctly I feel. After getting it started from the "baseline settings" given by ofna, i start to lean the mixture. when i get it running so that the low end has good acceleration if i try to take it into the high end it will stall and it seems that after that the engine wont start, even reverting back to baseline settings does not allow for starting. Is this a sign that i will have to rebuild my engine? if so, what would i need to replace. or is this just my ineptitude at tuning showing up? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Andrew.
Andrew.
#2
RE: engine rebuild signs?
ive got the same motor and car as you. the motor is very finicky to me, just 1/8 of a turn on either needles will make a big difference, whereas im used to tuning an engine (dynamite .12spd) where you must turn the needles in more than 1/2 a turn to see any kind of difference. you say when you hit the high end it stalls, what does it sound like when it stalls? if it bogs down and rpm drops as the engine is revving up to full rpms, and puffs out really heavy smoke, then dies, then the hsn is set too rich. if it just stalls, like suddenly, then it may be too lean. try the stock settings (hsn 2 turns in from flush, lsn flush) and go in very very little at a time on the hsn until you see good temps and power. and make SURE that the engine is at operating temps (over 200). if it bogs when you go full, let off as it will die, this is a sign its too rich. after the hsn is set, tune lsn for good throttle response. bring it in and pinch the fuel line and it should die within 3-4 seconds. if it dies instantly the lsn is too lean. takes too long to die its too rich. im definitely not an expert tuner but i do know some, i hope that helps you out
also try adding another glow plug shim. this retards the timing and makes engine tuning a bit easier. works kind of the same way as adding head shims. and power loss, as far as i can see is unnoticeable.
turn the flywheel with your hand. does it get easy to turn, then get hard to turn? if its pretty easy to turn then then the compression is pretty low. you may need to replace the piston and sleeve and re-do the break in process. after 2 gallons of gas, mine still has loads and loads of compression.
also try adding another glow plug shim. this retards the timing and makes engine tuning a bit easier. works kind of the same way as adding head shims. and power loss, as far as i can see is unnoticeable.
turn the flywheel with your hand. does it get easy to turn, then get hard to turn? if its pretty easy to turn then then the compression is pretty low. you may need to replace the piston and sleeve and re-do the break in process. after 2 gallons of gas, mine still has loads and loads of compression.