futronix

Hey all. Just got myself a 1/10th 4WD buggy running a .18CXP Vertex engine....... now I have a few questions in regards to fuel ratios, break in procedures and tunning......
Ive got some experience in bigger 2strokes so im not all that new to the engine scene.....

1. What fuel/oil ratio should be used for these little suckers??
2. What break in procedures should be followed? Throttle speeds, run times etc....
3. Does anyone know the recommended changes in carbie settings during break-in????

Some info ive scrapped up.. if ne1 can confirm these:
First 6hrs fuel/oil ratio 25:1 (ring change after 6 hrs)
after break in 32~35:1

snowbl!nd

1:- You want to stick with the same fuel for break-in as you will be using for regular use, there is no need for a "break-in fuel" (although there are some fuel manufacturers which actually produce special break-in fuel). Basically you want a fuel from a reputable brand with 10-20% nitromethane, and an oil content of between 10-18%. Most fuels do not disclose the amount of oil in the fuel, but "sport" fuels usually contain more oil than "race" fuels. I would reccomend Sidewinder "race" 20% nitro, 12% oil, i am currently running this in a .12 and a .21 and it performs well.

2:- Break-in procedures...hmm, there are a million different procedures which you can follow. If any procedures are suppied with the engine/buggy then follow those, if not then use the search function at the top of the page, as this question has been asked many times before, and there have been some very good (tried and tested) solutions.

3:- Every engine is different, so i cannot suggest needle settings for your engine. Have a look in any supplied engine manuals or ask this question in the "general discussions" area. If you are specific, then someone who has an identical engine may be able to give suggestions on needle settings for break-in.

As for the info you have "scraped-up", for these 2-strokes you do not need to change the ratios of fuel/oil (and it would be difficult to do so). Also, they are not "ringed" engines, so it would be impossible to change the ring after 6 hours (i am assuming you are reffering to the piston ring)

futronix

thnx for your info....

no rings on the piston??? then wat rebuilds are essential and at wat periods?

clarify one thing..... this is a petrol car not a NITRO... I thought it was a straight mix of Premium unleaded 100octane (wat we have down here) and 2T oil??

snowbl!nd

From what you said in your first post, i assumed that the buggy was "nitro" powered, and the engine .18 displacement would support this, as only the largest rc engines are powered by gasoline (usually found in 1/6 scale buggies/trucks).

To my knowledge there is only one ringed nitro engine on the market for cars/trucks , and this is the Thunder Tiger .70, a converted heli engine. I doubt that there are ANY rings in your piston, although if you are unsure you could always look at the piston (remove the exhaust manifold and look through the exhaust port whilst rotating the flywheel.) You should only need to rebuild the engine if something breaks, although some people dismantle the engine every couple of gallons to inspect the piston/sleeve and con-rod for wear.

I am positive the buggy is nitro powered, if you were to post a pic of the engine/buggy then i could tell you for sure.

futronix

ok... its a 1:10 Gas Powered 4WD Off-Road BUGGY with 18 cxp engine.... havent got the car wit me at the moment its due in tommorow so cant take a pic.... i guess the manual will shed some light on the correct fuel and run-in procedure for this car....