HELP SETTING VALVE PLEASE
07-21-2006 | 11:14 PM
#2
RE: HELP SETTING VALVE PLEASE
reading that in caps gives me a headache, almost like your screaming
i will start by saying the factory specs are not always correct since nitro engines need tuning every time they are run, here is something copied and pasted on tuning
crash course:
-Rich: more fuel than needed, therefore, more oil than needed also, make engine run cooler
-Lean: too little fuel, less fuel means less oil, will run good, but less oil is deadly to your engine, never run lean, also makes engine run hotter
TUNING:
low speed needle: (lsn) usually found on the side of engine mounted horizontally, this adjusts the amount of ooomph it has when it first takes off, too rich of a lsn setting makes it slightly hesitate and slow down, too lean will make the engine overheat and flame out(ideal engine temps are generally between 220-260F but always tune for performance) just right will make it snappy and powerful
high speed needle: (hsn) this adjust the total amount of fuel flow going into the engine, turning clockwise leans the mixture out, turning counterclockwise richens the mixture out, only adjust in 1/8th of a turn increments and give 30 seconds of driving for effects to fully take place, if it is not getting up to higher rpms and temp and seems boggy, lean it out, if it is getting very hot or dying suddenly, then richen it up, if its running too hot, you should cut some cooling holes in the body to make sure it has proper ventilation, and richen out by 1/8th of a turn, once you find the sweet spot for tuning that day, richen it out about 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn to make sure your engine is getting plenty of oil, make sure when you are driving there is a good smoke trail too, too rich can cause it to bog and cut out, and it is hard on the connecting rod
idle screw: sometimes adjusted by an allen wrench, this is typically on the front of the carb (the savages might be different) this adjust how open the throttle is at idle, if the truck is moving at idle, its prolly open too much (or tuning could be an issue) it needs to be open 1-2mm at idle, and not cut off when brake is applied, also make sure it doesnt overly open when servo is fully aplied
another way to check your tuning is by reading the glow plug, here is something copied and pasted from another thread:
rule of thumb.
1** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!
Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune change's
i hope this really helps you out and gets you going, the learning curve with nitro is kinda steep, but in a while tuning ill become second nature to you, if i am wrong on any of this someone please correct me, now go have fun with your car
i will start by saying the factory specs are not always correct since nitro engines need tuning every time they are run, here is something copied and pasted on tuning
crash course:
-Rich: more fuel than needed, therefore, more oil than needed also, make engine run cooler
-Lean: too little fuel, less fuel means less oil, will run good, but less oil is deadly to your engine, never run lean, also makes engine run hotter
TUNING:
low speed needle: (lsn) usually found on the side of engine mounted horizontally, this adjusts the amount of ooomph it has when it first takes off, too rich of a lsn setting makes it slightly hesitate and slow down, too lean will make the engine overheat and flame out(ideal engine temps are generally between 220-260F but always tune for performance) just right will make it snappy and powerful
high speed needle: (hsn) this adjust the total amount of fuel flow going into the engine, turning clockwise leans the mixture out, turning counterclockwise richens the mixture out, only adjust in 1/8th of a turn increments and give 30 seconds of driving for effects to fully take place, if it is not getting up to higher rpms and temp and seems boggy, lean it out, if it is getting very hot or dying suddenly, then richen it up, if its running too hot, you should cut some cooling holes in the body to make sure it has proper ventilation, and richen out by 1/8th of a turn, once you find the sweet spot for tuning that day, richen it out about 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn to make sure your engine is getting plenty of oil, make sure when you are driving there is a good smoke trail too, too rich can cause it to bog and cut out, and it is hard on the connecting rod
idle screw: sometimes adjusted by an allen wrench, this is typically on the front of the carb (the savages might be different) this adjust how open the throttle is at idle, if the truck is moving at idle, its prolly open too much (or tuning could be an issue) it needs to be open 1-2mm at idle, and not cut off when brake is applied, also make sure it doesnt overly open when servo is fully aplied
another way to check your tuning is by reading the glow plug, here is something copied and pasted from another thread:
rule of thumb.
1** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!
Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune change's
i hope this really helps you out and gets you going, the learning curve with nitro is kinda steep, but in a while tuning ill become second nature to you, if i am wrong on any of this someone please correct me, now go have fun with your car
07-22-2006 | 01:28 AM
#4
RE: HELP SETTING VALVE PLEASE
when you are first breaking an engine is you should not run it very rich, its should get up to at least 220 degree F and only be slightly rich, slightly being key word, when you take the igniter off it should run fine withoput it, if it needs the ignter, it is too rich, running the engine rich for the first tfew tanks can be really hard on it and detrimental to its life, sure it will run fine for a while but you wont get as many gallons out of it as you should, using Fuelmans way (the guy from Cooper Fuels LLC.) you will be able to get alot more power and life from your engine, right now i would lean it out and start to tune to performance and nto be afraid to drive it, dont drive it hard, just make sure it gets a workout through the rpm ranges
and the idle screw adjusts how much the carb barrel closes, if its clloses too much, at full brake the engine stall, too little and the idle is high which can make the car move without you and burn the clutch shoes
and the idle screw adjusts how much the carb barrel closes, if its clloses too much, at full brake the engine stall, too little and the idle is high which can make the car move without you and burn the clutch shoes
