STS 30 ?'S
11-19-2006, 01:52 AM
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STS 30 ?'S
Does anyone have any experience with this motor. So far, I have taken out two shims, using O.S. 8 plug and going to be running byron 20%. I put it in my muggy for now.
11-19-2006, 01:59 AM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
one of my friend is running the STS28 and it rocks! Why take the shims out? You may trigger over compression is my thought. Most engines are good upto 25% before you need to add shims. Anyway just a thought..
11-19-2006, 02:11 AM
#3
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
The STS 30 comes way over shimmed from factory... STS puts 3 extra shims in the motor to help during break in...they did this to help prevent people from breaking their pullstarts... The motor will not run correctly with all the shims, expecialy with only 20% nitro.... I run just once silver shim and 30% and its perfect, the motor is very powerful and runs like a dream... IMO this motor needs higher nitro like 30% to even run correctly, 2 shims with 20% is way overshimed and the motor will not perform very well...
One silver shim and 30% is the way the STS 30 like to run, dont mess around with 20%.
One silver shim and 30% is the way the STS 30 like to run, dont mess around with 20%.
11-19-2006, 10:26 PM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
hey super thats news to me! never heard that before. I know many people using this engine without removing the shims and providing extreme power. Where did you find about the shim situation?
11-20-2006, 01:15 AM
#6
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: mozzzy_2000
hey super thats news to me! never heard that before. I know many people using this engine without removing the shims and providing extreme power. Where did you find about the shim situation?
hey super thats news to me! never heard that before. I know many people using this engine without removing the shims and providing extreme power. Where did you find about the shim situation?
when X-Treme dyno tested this engine they also did not remove any shims LOL unfortunate as this thing really wakes up when you remove the shims...
11-20-2006, 03:12 AM
#8
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: mozzzy_2000
a beast it is! I shall let my friends know about that one! Do you think its the same with the STS28?
a beast it is! I shall let my friends know about that one! Do you think its the same with the STS28?
11-20-2006, 05:42 AM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
no worries! yeah one of my mates has just run a sts28 in on his hyper. Gee massive of power hey. Seems like an awesome engine for the price hey!
11-20-2006, 11:44 AM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: supertib
i have run both OS 8 and the MC-8......both are fine.
ORIGINAL: SManMTB
Just check if the STS actually needs the shorter OS#8 plug.
Just check if the STS actually needs the shorter OS#8 plug.
Engine performance will go down and it can be tricky to tune. Been there done that. Just check to make sure you get all the power that you should get.
I know many does not listen to things like this and I feel like a broken record... LOL
11-20-2006, 12:27 PM
#13
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: SManMTB
Yeah, that's the thing. You do know that the OS plug is 1 thread shorter and will not fit properly in a head for standard length plugs?
Engine performance will go down and it can be tricky to tune. Been there done that. Just check to make sure you get all the power that you should get.
I know many does not listen to things like this and I feel like a broken record... LOL
ORIGINAL: supertib
i have run both OS 8 and the MC-8......both are fine.
ORIGINAL: SManMTB
Just check if the STS actually needs the shorter OS#8 plug.
Just check if the STS actually needs the shorter OS#8 plug.
Engine performance will go down and it can be tricky to tune. Been there done that. Just check to make sure you get all the power that you should get.
I know many does not listen to things like this and I feel like a broken record... LOL
yes I know this... but honestly that one thread doesn't seem to make any difference....The STS is meant to run the longer plugs... but I have the same luck with the OS 8 as I do with the MC-8... No difference as far as I can tell.... No tuning issues, and more power then any other Savage i've seen ( I have it on video if you want to see)
11-20-2006, 01:30 PM
#15
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: redfox03
so, even if i take out the two head shims on the sts .30, the MC-8 plug will be fine? how about the MC-59 plugs?
so, even if i take out the two head shims on the sts .30, the MC-8 plug will be fine? how about the MC-59 plugs?
11-20-2006, 01:36 PM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: redfox03
so, even if i take out the two head shims on the sts .30, the MC-8 plug will be fine? how about the MC-59 plugs?
so, even if i take out the two head shims on the sts .30, the MC-8 plug will be fine? how about the MC-59 plugs?
11-20-2006, 01:50 PM
#17
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: SManMTB
I recommend that for any engine in this size (.21 to .30 or so) you should set the head-to-piston clearance to around 0.4mm regardless of how many shims are in there. It's always weird to define this measurement in 'number of shims'.
ORIGINAL: redfox03
so, even if i take out the two head shims on the sts .30, the MC-8 plug will be fine? how about the MC-59 plugs?
so, even if i take out the two head shims on the sts .30, the MC-8 plug will be fine? how about the MC-59 plugs?
the funny thing is when XRC dynoed the STS 30 they did it with 1.1 mm of head clearance, and it still pulled the same HP as the STS 28 and slightly less then the Axial 32... The dyno operator didn't feel he needed to remove the shims, even though STS suggests it after break in..... All i can say from first hand experience is the motor went thru a tranformation after I removed the shims, DR. Jekyl and Mr Hyde type transformation... Its really a shame they didn't dyno it with a proper head tolerance as this mill would have lit up the dyno.... But that typical of this industry, unless its a Nova or Picco nobody gives 2 ****s...
11-20-2006, 02:49 PM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
1.1 or even 0.65mm is actually way too much clearance for such small engines we talk about here. This distance is actually a very critical parameter and affects performance a great deal. It's way too complicated to explain in a few lines here but I could dig up some links later on that should give a good idea of what this actually does.
Measuring the distance is actually very simple. You need a caliper (preferably digital) and some time and patiense to get it right.
1. Remove cooling head and head button (it might be in one unit like on many other cheaper engines, or in two parts like on higher end engines)
2. Put piston at TDC and measure the distance from the top of the liner down to the piston. Write down this number, let's call this A.
3. Now meaasure the head button. Measure between the surface that mates to the top of the liner and the part that stick down into the cylinder. Do this either with or without the shims. Write down this number, let's call is B.
4. Take A minus B and you have the clearance between piston and head. Add or remove shims to adjust clearance.
Measuring the distance is actually very simple. You need a caliper (preferably digital) and some time and patiense to get it right.
1. Remove cooling head and head button (it might be in one unit like on many other cheaper engines, or in two parts like on higher end engines)
2. Put piston at TDC and measure the distance from the top of the liner down to the piston. Write down this number, let's call this A.
3. Now meaasure the head button. Measure between the surface that mates to the top of the liner and the part that stick down into the cylinder. Do this either with or without the shims. Write down this number, let's call is B.
4. Take A minus B and you have the clearance between piston and head. Add or remove shims to adjust clearance.
11-20-2006, 04:02 PM
#19
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: SManMTB
1.1 or even 0.65mm is actually way too much clearance for such small engines we talk about here. This distance is actually a very critical parameter and affects performance a great deal. It's way too complicated to explain in a few lines here but I could dig up some links later on that should give a good idea of what this actually does.
Measuring the distance is actually very simple. You need a caliper (preferably digital) and some time and patiense to get it right.
1. Remove cooling head and head button (it might be in one unit like on many other cheaper engines, or in two parts like on higher end engines)
2. Put piston at TDC and measure the distance from the top of the liner down to the piston. Write down this number, let's call this A.
3. Now meaasure the head button. Measure between the surface that mates to the top of the liner and the part that stick down into the cylinder. Do this either with or without the shims. Write down this number, let's call is B.
4. Take A minus B and you have the clearance between piston and head. Add or remove shims to adjust clearance.
1.1 or even 0.65mm is actually way too much clearance for such small engines we talk about here. This distance is actually a very critical parameter and affects performance a great deal. It's way too complicated to explain in a few lines here but I could dig up some links later on that should give a good idea of what this actually does.
Measuring the distance is actually very simple. You need a caliper (preferably digital) and some time and patiense to get it right.
1. Remove cooling head and head button (it might be in one unit like on many other cheaper engines, or in two parts like on higher end engines)
2. Put piston at TDC and measure the distance from the top of the liner down to the piston. Write down this number, let's call this A.
3. Now meaasure the head button. Measure between the surface that mates to the top of the liner and the part that stick down into the cylinder. Do this either with or without the shims. Write down this number, let's call is B.
4. Take A minus B and you have the clearance between piston and head. Add or remove shims to adjust clearance.
your preachin to the choir here bro... the motor comes with 1.1 mm, and it still dynoed pretty decently... And there is a gian difference once you shim down... I will do some more measuring, but I am thinking I will have to go down to one copper shim to hit a good tolerance... My own motor is still fresh so I have been shimming down in stages as more fuel passes thru the engine...
now can you see why I am telling people they aint seen nothing yet if they are running over 1mm head clearance ??
11-20-2006, 04:27 PM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
so far, I have taken the two copper shims out. Started it up with 20% byron and the motor was way too rich, so rich when I tried giving it throttle it would just die and there was alot of fuel coming out the exhaust. I could only start it up in my house since it is -25 below here in Alaska. I notice the screw that adjusts the low speed needle is way out, not flush. Well, guess I will have to order some 30% nitro since I live in remote village in Alaska. One last question, what brand 30% would you recommend.
Thanks for your help.....
Thanks for your help.....
11-20-2006, 06:29 PM
#22
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: Bobby33
so far, I have taken the two copper shims out. Started it up with 20% byron and the motor was way too rich, so rich when I tried giving it throttle it would just die and there was alot of fuel coming out the exhaust. I could only start it up in my house since it is -25 below here in Alaska. I notice the screw that adjusts the low speed needle is way out, not flush. Well, guess I will have to order some 30% nitro since I live in remote village in Alaska. One last question, what brand 30% would you recommend.
Thanks for your help.....
so far, I have taken the two copper shims out. Started it up with 20% byron and the motor was way too rich, so rich when I tried giving it throttle it would just die and there was alot of fuel coming out the exhaust. I could only start it up in my house since it is -25 below here in Alaska. I notice the screw that adjusts the low speed needle is way out, not flush. Well, guess I will have to order some 30% nitro since I live in remote village in Alaska. One last question, what brand 30% would you recommend.
Thanks for your help.....
with 2 silver shims you wil not get a good tune out of the STS 30, especialy with only 20%........its normal for the LSN to sit quite a ways outside of the housing......
11-20-2006, 11:23 PM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: supertib
yes I know this... but honestly that one thread doesn't seem to make any difference....The STS is meant to run the longer plugs... but I have the same luck with the OS 8 as I do with the MC-8... No difference as far as I can tell.... No tuning issues, and more power then any other Savage i've seen ( I have it on video if you want to see)
yes I know this... but honestly that one thread doesn't seem to make any difference....The STS is meant to run the longer plugs... but I have the same luck with the OS 8 as I do with the MC-8... No difference as far as I can tell.... No tuning issues, and more power then any other Savage i've seen ( I have it on video if you want to see)
Now, as for the D30M, I'm not sure if this engine demands long or short plugs. If it runs great on either plug, then go for it. I know that STS engines come with different heads, heck, their .21 has a head button that you can interchange with a turbo button or a standard glow plug button.
11-21-2006, 10:13 AM
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
What's so hard to understand when it come to short and long plugs? It has nothing to do with how 'tight' the engine is!
Just remove the head button and look at how the plug fits. If it's flush with the combustion chamber it's OK. If it's recessed the plug is too short. If it sticks down to far it's too long.
People have a brain right?
Just remove the head button and look at how the plug fits. If it's flush with the combustion chamber it's OK. If it's recessed the plug is too short. If it sticks down to far it's too long.
People have a brain right?
11-21-2006, 11:12 AM
#25
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RE: STS 30 ?'S
ORIGINAL: SManMTB
What's so hard to understand when it come to short and long plugs? It has nothing to do with how 'tight' the engine is!
Just remove the head button and look at how the plug fits. If it's flush with the combustion chamber it's OK. If it's recessed the plug is too short. If it sticks down to far it's too long.
People have a brain right?
What's so hard to understand when it come to short and long plugs? It has nothing to do with how 'tight' the engine is!
Just remove the head button and look at how the plug fits. If it's flush with the combustion chamber it's OK. If it's recessed the plug is too short. If it sticks down to far it's too long.
People have a brain right?