BREAKING IN A NEW NITRO ENGINE TRY THIS!!!
12-03-2006, 02:46 PM
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BREAKING IN A NEW NITRO ENGINE TRY THIS!!!
Nitro Engine Break In Procedure:
The key is to get the engine up to normal operating TEMPRATURE . Before the first initial start up pull carb, head, and engine backplate. While backplate is off check to see if there is any metal particals left from the the factory assembly/machining process. Most engines come from the factory without any problems but now is the time to check it out while you can see the internal surfaces of the crank, piston sleeve assembly. Now reassemble the engine using a SMALL !! amount of oxygen safe silicone sealer around the base of the carb and back plate. Most have a O ring so put a amount on the mating surfaces of backplate and carb and be sure to fully seat carb in to the crankcase . This is not totally necessary but this will ensure that there are not any air leaks that will cause a lean condition which causes a lack of lubrication and problems with high and low speed needle settings. This applies to new engines as well as engines that have had gallons of fuel run thru them. In order to properly break in a new engine you must get the temprature up to normal operating conditions. The old shcool rule is to run very rich with tires off the ground at an idle on a stand. Engines tend to run too cool with a rich break in needle setting. You need to have an external heat source to keep the engine up to operating temp. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to bring temps up to operating conditions. Pull glow plug and put a few of drops of after run oil on top of the piston and do the same thur the carb opening/venturi. Make sure to start engine with loose glow plug engine, preheated to 210-225 degrees. This helps with any new engine as there is a tight pinch at the top of the stroke and this expands the fit between piston and liner on inital break in and makes a stubborn engine with a tight pinch easier to turn over. What I am getting ready to explain is a "FLUSHING CYCLE" which means that you are pushing all the metal particals that are generated on initial run in between piston /sleeve and all bearing surfaces internally and running them out of the exhaust with excessive nitro/lubrication.
1st Tank: No Radio On. Engine throttle operated manually. Open main needle one full turn richer than factory setting. Prime engine by putting a couple of drops of fuel into carb. Heat engine with heat gun or hair dryer to 220 degrees. Be sure to monitor engine temps through out break in procedure with temp gun. Open carb to full throttle by hand and hold there. Start engine which should be so rich it barely runs. Richen additionally till engine flames out. Lean out main needle 1/4 - 1/3 turn and run engine full throttle thru entire first tank. Don't worry you are runnung a brand new engine at full throttle but at such a rich setting the engine is turning low RPM'S but maintaining the all important TEMP!
2nd Tank: Follow the same procedure as above not touching the main needle setting and maintaining the 220 degree engine temp. Run the entire tank at this setting, full throttle, stopping short of running tank dry as this causes a lean condition.
3rd Tank: Same as second tank but stopping short of tank running dry. Let engine completely cool. What we are doing is the heat cycle and the initial run in on alll internal mating surfaces.
4th Tank: With RADIO ON ! Lean carb till still extremely rich/barely running but engine is able to be throttled between idle and full throttle at 2 to 3 second intervals with engine at 220 to 240 degrees maintined with heat gun or hair dryer. After tank is almost empty let engine completely cool again.
5th Tank: Same procedure as fourth tank till almost empty with cool down period.
6th Tank: Run same as fifth tank but at half tank lean out carb 1/4 turn and continue throttling engine between idle and full while maintaining between 220-240 degrees.
7th Tank: Same as 6th tank. At this point you should be running vehicle on the ground and leaning engine toward more of a race setting. Maintain a slightly rich needle settting. Always stay on the rich side of being to lean to ensure long engine/glowplug life.
Break in on most smallblocks between .12 thru 18 is approx. 1/2 gallon of fuel. On most big block engines .21 thru.32 is one gallon is normal. These amounts are on an average. Every engine is different!! The engine is considered broke in when the flywheel/piston will not stick at top dead center when rotated by hand with engine cold, glow plug in place. If flywheel does not rotate to one side or the other past T.D.C. additional break in is required.
If you are not huffing nitro fumes and listening to the sweet song youn are not LIVING !!
The key is to get the engine up to normal operating TEMPRATURE . Before the first initial start up pull carb, head, and engine backplate. While backplate is off check to see if there is any metal particals left from the the factory assembly/machining process. Most engines come from the factory without any problems but now is the time to check it out while you can see the internal surfaces of the crank, piston sleeve assembly. Now reassemble the engine using a SMALL !! amount of oxygen safe silicone sealer around the base of the carb and back plate. Most have a O ring so put a amount on the mating surfaces of backplate and carb and be sure to fully seat carb in to the crankcase . This is not totally necessary but this will ensure that there are not any air leaks that will cause a lean condition which causes a lack of lubrication and problems with high and low speed needle settings. This applies to new engines as well as engines that have had gallons of fuel run thru them. In order to properly break in a new engine you must get the temprature up to normal operating conditions. The old shcool rule is to run very rich with tires off the ground at an idle on a stand. Engines tend to run too cool with a rich break in needle setting. You need to have an external heat source to keep the engine up to operating temp. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to bring temps up to operating conditions. Pull glow plug and put a few of drops of after run oil on top of the piston and do the same thur the carb opening/venturi. Make sure to start engine with loose glow plug engine, preheated to 210-225 degrees. This helps with any new engine as there is a tight pinch at the top of the stroke and this expands the fit between piston and liner on inital break in and makes a stubborn engine with a tight pinch easier to turn over. What I am getting ready to explain is a "FLUSHING CYCLE" which means that you are pushing all the metal particals that are generated on initial run in between piston /sleeve and all bearing surfaces internally and running them out of the exhaust with excessive nitro/lubrication.
1st Tank: No Radio On. Engine throttle operated manually. Open main needle one full turn richer than factory setting. Prime engine by putting a couple of drops of fuel into carb. Heat engine with heat gun or hair dryer to 220 degrees. Be sure to monitor engine temps through out break in procedure with temp gun. Open carb to full throttle by hand and hold there. Start engine which should be so rich it barely runs. Richen additionally till engine flames out. Lean out main needle 1/4 - 1/3 turn and run engine full throttle thru entire first tank. Don't worry you are runnung a brand new engine at full throttle but at such a rich setting the engine is turning low RPM'S but maintaining the all important TEMP!
2nd Tank: Follow the same procedure as above not touching the main needle setting and maintaining the 220 degree engine temp. Run the entire tank at this setting, full throttle, stopping short of running tank dry as this causes a lean condition.
3rd Tank: Same as second tank but stopping short of tank running dry. Let engine completely cool. What we are doing is the heat cycle and the initial run in on alll internal mating surfaces.
4th Tank: With RADIO ON ! Lean carb till still extremely rich/barely running but engine is able to be throttled between idle and full throttle at 2 to 3 second intervals with engine at 220 to 240 degrees maintined with heat gun or hair dryer. After tank is almost empty let engine completely cool again.
5th Tank: Same procedure as fourth tank till almost empty with cool down period.
6th Tank: Run same as fifth tank but at half tank lean out carb 1/4 turn and continue throttling engine between idle and full while maintaining between 220-240 degrees.
7th Tank: Same as 6th tank. At this point you should be running vehicle on the ground and leaning engine toward more of a race setting. Maintain a slightly rich needle settting. Always stay on the rich side of being to lean to ensure long engine/glowplug life.
Break in on most smallblocks between .12 thru 18 is approx. 1/2 gallon of fuel. On most big block engines .21 thru.32 is one gallon is normal. These amounts are on an average. Every engine is different!! The engine is considered broke in when the flywheel/piston will not stick at top dead center when rotated by hand with engine cold, glow plug in place. If flywheel does not rotate to one side or the other past T.D.C. additional break in is required.
If you are not huffing nitro fumes and listening to the sweet song youn are not LIVING !!
12-03-2006, 10:08 PM
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RE: BREAKING IN A NEW NITRO ENGINE TRY THIS!!!
ORIGINAL: NITRO FUMES RULE
Nitro Engine Break In Procedure:
The key is to get the engine up to normal operating TEMPRATURE . Before the first initial start up pull carb, head, and engine backplate. While backplate is off check to see if there is any metal particals left from the the factory assembly/machining process. Most engines come from the factory without any problems but now is the time to check it out while you can see the internal surfaces of the crank, piston sleeve assembly. Now reassemble the engine using a SMALL !! amount of oxygen safe silicone sealer around the base of the carb and back plate. Most have a O ring so put a amount on the mating surfaces of backplate and carb and be sure to fully seat carb in to the crankcase . This is not totally necessary but this will ensure that there are not any air leaks that will cause a lean condition which causes a lack of lubrication and problems with high and low speed needle settings. This applies to new engines as well as engines that have had gallons of fuel run thru them. In order to properly break in a new engine you must get the temprature up to normal operating conditions. The old shcool rule is to run very rich with tires off the ground at an idle on a stand. Engines tend to run too cool with a rich break in needle setting. You need to have an external heat source to keep the engine up to operating temp. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to bring temps up to operating conditions. Pull glow plug and put a few of drops of after run oil on top of the piston and do the same thur the carb opening/venturi. Make sure to start engine with loose glow plug engine, preheated to 210-225 degrees. This helps with any new engine as there is a tight pinch at the top of the stroke and this expands the fit between piston and liner on inital break in and makes a stubborn engine with a tight pinch easier to turn over. What I am getting ready to explain is a "FLUSHING CYCLE" which means that you are pushing all the metal particals that are generated on initial run in between piston /sleeve and all bearing surfaces internally and running them out of the exhaust with excessive nitro/lubrication.
1st Tank: No Radio On. Engine throttle operated manually. Open main needle one full turn richer than factory setting. Prime engine by putting a couple of drops of fuel into carb. Heat engine with heat gun or hair dryer to 220 degrees. Be sure to monitor engine temps through out break in procedure with temp gun. Open carb to full throttle by hand and hold there. Start engine which should be so rich it barely runs. Richen additionally till engine flames out. Lean out main needle 1/4 - 1/3 turn and run engine full throttle thru entire first tank. Don't worry you are runnung a brand new engine at full throttle but at such a rich setting the engine is turning low RPM'S but maintaining the all important TEMP!
2nd Tank: Follow the same procedure as above not touching the main needle setting and maintaining the 220 degree engine temp. Run the entire tank at this setting, full throttle, stopping short of running tank dry as this causes a lean condition.
3rd Tank: Same as second tank but stopping short of tank running dry. Let engine completely cool. What we are doing is the heat cycle and the initial run in on alll internal mating surfaces.
4th Tank: With RADIO ON ! Lean carb till still extremely rich/barely running but engine is able to be throttled between idle and full throttle at 2 to 3 second intervals with engine at 220 to 240 degrees maintined with heat gun or hair dryer. After tank is almost empty let engine completely cool again.
5th Tank: Same procedure as fourth tank till almost empty with cool down period.
6th Tank: Run same as fifth tank but at half tank lean out carb 1/4 turn and continue throttling engine between idle and full while maintaining between 220-240 degrees.
7th Tank: Same as 6th tank. At this point you should be running vehicle on the ground and leaning engine toward more of a race setting. Maintain a slightly rich needle settting. Always stay on the rich side of being to lean to ensure long engine/glowplug life.
Break in on most smallblocks between .12 thru 18 is approx. 1/2 gallon of fuel. On most big block engines .21 thru.32 is one gallon is normal. These amounts are on an average. Every engine is different!! The engine is considered broke in when the flywheel/piston will not stick at top dead center when rotated by hand with engine cold, glow plug in place. If flywheel does not rotate to one side or the other past T.D.C. additional break in is required.
If you are not huffing nitro fumes and listening to the sweet song youn are not LIVING !!
Nitro Engine Break In Procedure:
The key is to get the engine up to normal operating TEMPRATURE . Before the first initial start up pull carb, head, and engine backplate. While backplate is off check to see if there is any metal particals left from the the factory assembly/machining process. Most engines come from the factory without any problems but now is the time to check it out while you can see the internal surfaces of the crank, piston sleeve assembly. Now reassemble the engine using a SMALL !! amount of oxygen safe silicone sealer around the base of the carb and back plate. Most have a O ring so put a amount on the mating surfaces of backplate and carb and be sure to fully seat carb in to the crankcase . This is not totally necessary but this will ensure that there are not any air leaks that will cause a lean condition which causes a lack of lubrication and problems with high and low speed needle settings. This applies to new engines as well as engines that have had gallons of fuel run thru them. In order to properly break in a new engine you must get the temprature up to normal operating conditions. The old shcool rule is to run very rich with tires off the ground at an idle on a stand. Engines tend to run too cool with a rich break in needle setting. You need to have an external heat source to keep the engine up to operating temp. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to bring temps up to operating conditions. Pull glow plug and put a few of drops of after run oil on top of the piston and do the same thur the carb opening/venturi. Make sure to start engine with loose glow plug engine, preheated to 210-225 degrees. This helps with any new engine as there is a tight pinch at the top of the stroke and this expands the fit between piston and liner on inital break in and makes a stubborn engine with a tight pinch easier to turn over. What I am getting ready to explain is a "FLUSHING CYCLE" which means that you are pushing all the metal particals that are generated on initial run in between piston /sleeve and all bearing surfaces internally and running them out of the exhaust with excessive nitro/lubrication.
1st Tank: No Radio On. Engine throttle operated manually. Open main needle one full turn richer than factory setting. Prime engine by putting a couple of drops of fuel into carb. Heat engine with heat gun or hair dryer to 220 degrees. Be sure to monitor engine temps through out break in procedure with temp gun. Open carb to full throttle by hand and hold there. Start engine which should be so rich it barely runs. Richen additionally till engine flames out. Lean out main needle 1/4 - 1/3 turn and run engine full throttle thru entire first tank. Don't worry you are runnung a brand new engine at full throttle but at such a rich setting the engine is turning low RPM'S but maintaining the all important TEMP!
2nd Tank: Follow the same procedure as above not touching the main needle setting and maintaining the 220 degree engine temp. Run the entire tank at this setting, full throttle, stopping short of running tank dry as this causes a lean condition.
3rd Tank: Same as second tank but stopping short of tank running dry. Let engine completely cool. What we are doing is the heat cycle and the initial run in on alll internal mating surfaces.
4th Tank: With RADIO ON ! Lean carb till still extremely rich/barely running but engine is able to be throttled between idle and full throttle at 2 to 3 second intervals with engine at 220 to 240 degrees maintined with heat gun or hair dryer. After tank is almost empty let engine completely cool again.
5th Tank: Same procedure as fourth tank till almost empty with cool down period.
6th Tank: Run same as fifth tank but at half tank lean out carb 1/4 turn and continue throttling engine between idle and full while maintaining between 220-240 degrees.
7th Tank: Same as 6th tank. At this point you should be running vehicle on the ground and leaning engine toward more of a race setting. Maintain a slightly rich needle settting. Always stay on the rich side of being to lean to ensure long engine/glowplug life.
Break in on most smallblocks between .12 thru 18 is approx. 1/2 gallon of fuel. On most big block engines .21 thru.32 is one gallon is normal. These amounts are on an average. Every engine is different!! The engine is considered broke in when the flywheel/piston will not stick at top dead center when rotated by hand with engine cold, glow plug in place. If flywheel does not rotate to one side or the other past T.D.C. additional break in is required.
If you are not huffing nitro fumes and listening to the sweet song youn are not LIVING !!
12-05-2006, 08:31 PM
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RE: BREAKING IN A NEW NITRO ENGINE TRY THIS!!!
Nice instructional post. It's refreshing to see people do so without the usual banterings. Anyways, enough of my own baterings.
Good detailed instructions that will help any newbie perform the instructions religiously and ezcatly. Your steps are itemized, clear and concise. This is the type of information that I, when I was a newb, was looking for.
As for your procedure, I agree with 125cchyperman. To fully gain the beenefit of this break-in procedure, you must include the cool down steps. I'm not sure why this is, but I think this has something to do with anealing (like what blacksmiths do when quenching hot metals). Also, it's not necessary to run the first few tanks with the radio off. It should'nt make a difference with the radio on or off.
But overall, I thought this post was a great informational post. Like I said before, posts that are banter free are a blessing to us all.
Good detailed instructions that will help any newbie perform the instructions religiously and ezcatly. Your steps are itemized, clear and concise. This is the type of information that I, when I was a newb, was looking for.
As for your procedure, I agree with 125cchyperman. To fully gain the beenefit of this break-in procedure, you must include the cool down steps. I'm not sure why this is, but I think this has something to do with anealing (like what blacksmiths do when quenching hot metals). Also, it's not necessary to run the first few tanks with the radio off. It should'nt make a difference with the radio on or off.
But overall, I thought this post was a great informational post. Like I said before, posts that are banter free are a blessing to us all.
12-06-2006, 09:02 AM
#4
RE: BREAKING IN A NEW NITRO ENGINE TRY THIS!!!
Heat cycling doesn't do anything in an ABx type engine because they don't use any metals that can benefit by it. The only metal that needs heat cycling is cast iron as used in lapped pistons and piston rings but even that shouldn't be heat cycled until part way through the running in procedure.
One thing to be careful with when it's an ABX type is not to get too hot, especially in the first run or two. If the piston or liner aren't perfectly round then there'll be localised heating at the high point. This is particularly bad for the piston because of the silicon crystals (this is what gives the piston a mottled appearance if you look closely at them). Localised hot spots melt the crystals back into the alloy and the piston smears at the surface giving a localised shiny spot like a rub mark.
One thing to be careful with when it's an ABX type is not to get too hot, especially in the first run or two. If the piston or liner aren't perfectly round then there'll be localised heating at the high point. This is particularly bad for the piston because of the silicon crystals (this is what gives the piston a mottled appearance if you look closely at them). Localised hot spots melt the crystals back into the alloy and the piston smears at the surface giving a localised shiny spot like a rub mark.
