Plug selection
#2
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From: Spring, TX
The "right" glow plug for your engine is the one that gives you the best performance. And you can choose the right plug for any situation, just by following the guidelines below.
1. Engine Type
Guideline 1: Know what type of engine you have. Is it a standard - or a turbo?
Standard engines (engines with a 1-piece head) are most common. Standard plugs are easily available, inexpensive and fit almost all standard engines. Standard plugs are installed with a washer, which creates a compression seal with the head.
Many new O.S. engines are turbo engines, which feature a special 2-piece turbo head. The biggest benefit of turbo plugs is superior performance. Unlike standard plugs, turbo plugs (identified by a "P" in the description) feature a tapered "seat" that matches perfectly with the head. That creates a superior compression seal and with it, maximum efficiency and power. Turbo plugs are the choice for racers who want - and need - top performance.
A word of caution: you should never install a turbo plug in a standard engine or vice versa. Doing so risks doing serious (and expensive!) damage.
2. Displacement
Size matters to glow plugs. What size is your engine? A .12? .15? .21? Big engines have more mass and retain heat better. Smaller, lighter engines don't, and need the help a hotter plug can offer.
Guideline 2: The smaller the engine, the hotter the plug.
3. Fuel Nitromethane Content
What's the nitro percentage in your fuel? High-nitro fuels produce more power than low-nitro fuels, but also produce more heat.
Guideline 3: The higher the nitro content, the colder the plug.
4. Temperature
Smart modelers tend to keep a variety of glow plugs on hand. The reason? Because the "right" plug for your engine can change with the temperature. To achieve top performance, your choice of plug needs to change, too.
Guideline 5: The hotter the day, the colder the plug.
5, 6 & 7. Other Considerations
Here are a few other things you should know.
Hot plugs promote better idling and acceleration. If your engine runs rough or accelerates sluggishly, a hotter plug will help.
Cold plugs produce more power and may improve performance if your engine runs hot. The downside is rougher idling and more difficulty in tuning.
Where you run also plays a part. If the track/course has a lot of twists and turns, a hot plug is fine. If the track/course has long straights where you'll reach maximum rpm, a colder plug is best.
Fuel-air mix not only affects how your engine performs; it can also have an impact on how long your plug lasts. If you run rich, it means that you're using more fuel than necessary for top performance. Modelers are often advised to run rich during engine break-in, because it helps cool the engine. However, running too rich can also cause an engine to "bog down" or quit entirely. In addition, it also means that the glow element is being exposed to more contaminants than necessary, which shortens plug life.
Running lean means that you're using less fuel. "Leaning down" an engine has a positive effect on performance. However, care is needed here, because over-leaning an engine can harm it, by raising operating temperatures, "burn up" a plug before its time.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right glow plug not only improves performance, but can also extend the life of your engine and the glow plug itself. With the guidelines above and the tips below, you're well on your way to achieving both.
Buy quality plugs. You're protecting your investment.
Store plugs where it's dry. Moisture can ruin them.
Use the right glow plug. Follow the guidelines above.
Follow proper break-in procedures.
Tune your engine carefully. Running too lean will make your engine "blow" plugs more often. Proper tuning helps extend plug life.
Never touch the filament of a glow plug. Doing so can break the filament and ruin a plug.
Don't overtighten your plug. Tighten it until it's just snug.
Be sure to shim your engine correctly. A plug that's too close to the piston can cause pre-detonation, which will quickly damage a glow plug.
Use only a glow starter or 1.5V battery to heat your plug. Otherwise, your plug may burn out ahead of its time.
Don't be afraid to ask for help. Experienced modelers have already "been there, done that." Their experience can save you time and money - and most are glad to help.
Taken from: http://www.osengines.com/accys/choosing-glowplugs.html
1. Engine Type
Guideline 1: Know what type of engine you have. Is it a standard - or a turbo?
Standard engines (engines with a 1-piece head) are most common. Standard plugs are easily available, inexpensive and fit almost all standard engines. Standard plugs are installed with a washer, which creates a compression seal with the head.
Many new O.S. engines are turbo engines, which feature a special 2-piece turbo head. The biggest benefit of turbo plugs is superior performance. Unlike standard plugs, turbo plugs (identified by a "P" in the description) feature a tapered "seat" that matches perfectly with the head. That creates a superior compression seal and with it, maximum efficiency and power. Turbo plugs are the choice for racers who want - and need - top performance.
A word of caution: you should never install a turbo plug in a standard engine or vice versa. Doing so risks doing serious (and expensive!) damage.
2. Displacement
Size matters to glow plugs. What size is your engine? A .12? .15? .21? Big engines have more mass and retain heat better. Smaller, lighter engines don't, and need the help a hotter plug can offer.
Guideline 2: The smaller the engine, the hotter the plug.
3. Fuel Nitromethane Content
What's the nitro percentage in your fuel? High-nitro fuels produce more power than low-nitro fuels, but also produce more heat.
Guideline 3: The higher the nitro content, the colder the plug.
4. Temperature
Smart modelers tend to keep a variety of glow plugs on hand. The reason? Because the "right" plug for your engine can change with the temperature. To achieve top performance, your choice of plug needs to change, too.
Guideline 5: The hotter the day, the colder the plug.
5, 6 & 7. Other Considerations
Here are a few other things you should know.
Hot plugs promote better idling and acceleration. If your engine runs rough or accelerates sluggishly, a hotter plug will help.
Cold plugs produce more power and may improve performance if your engine runs hot. The downside is rougher idling and more difficulty in tuning.
Where you run also plays a part. If the track/course has a lot of twists and turns, a hot plug is fine. If the track/course has long straights where you'll reach maximum rpm, a colder plug is best.
Fuel-air mix not only affects how your engine performs; it can also have an impact on how long your plug lasts. If you run rich, it means that you're using more fuel than necessary for top performance. Modelers are often advised to run rich during engine break-in, because it helps cool the engine. However, running too rich can also cause an engine to "bog down" or quit entirely. In addition, it also means that the glow element is being exposed to more contaminants than necessary, which shortens plug life.
Running lean means that you're using less fuel. "Leaning down" an engine has a positive effect on performance. However, care is needed here, because over-leaning an engine can harm it, by raising operating temperatures, "burn up" a plug before its time.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right glow plug not only improves performance, but can also extend the life of your engine and the glow plug itself. With the guidelines above and the tips below, you're well on your way to achieving both.
Buy quality plugs. You're protecting your investment.
Store plugs where it's dry. Moisture can ruin them.
Use the right glow plug. Follow the guidelines above.
Follow proper break-in procedures.
Tune your engine carefully. Running too lean will make your engine "blow" plugs more often. Proper tuning helps extend plug life.
Never touch the filament of a glow plug. Doing so can break the filament and ruin a plug.
Don't overtighten your plug. Tighten it until it's just snug.
Be sure to shim your engine correctly. A plug that's too close to the piston can cause pre-detonation, which will quickly damage a glow plug.
Use only a glow starter or 1.5V battery to heat your plug. Otherwise, your plug may burn out ahead of its time.
Don't be afraid to ask for help. Experienced modelers have already "been there, done that." Their experience can save you time and money - and most are glad to help.
Taken from: http://www.osengines.com/accys/choosing-glowplugs.html
#3

Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, USA
You can try, but most find that they need a colder plug than the #8 for BB and 30%. Try an R5 or A5. #8 seems to be great at 20% nitro and good/decent at 25% nitro. Generally, you go to a colder plug (thicker element) as the nitro increases.
#5
there is a section in here on glow plugs http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5517128/tm.htm
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
A bunch of good info there, but just to nitpick...
Guideline 5 should be just the opposite. Hot and/or humidy weather creates air that is less dense than cooler and drier air. This means less fuel and air enter the combustion chamber, which slightly reduces compression. This has the same effect of adding a head shim. The reduced compression causes the glow plug to "fire" later (timing is retarded). To compensate, a hotter plug would have to be used.
In all my years I personally have never needed to change plugs with weather changes. Along with that even extreme weather conditions (changing from 30's to 90's ambient temp and 0% to 95% humidity) needle settings usually don't need to be changed by more than 1/4 turn. One of the most overlooked factors in engine tuning is barometric pressure which can cause even more significant changes to needle settings than temp and humidity.
Back to actual plug choice. The plug you choose for an engine depends on the engine and fuel you are using. The majority of big blocks out there are shimmed from the factory to run on 20-30% nitro. An O.S. #8 plug is a good "medium" plug which works well in a lot of engines. As someone mentioned, find out whether or not your engine requires a short reach plug (O.S.) or standard long reach plug (like most others).
If you do happen to use the wrong heat range plug it's not the end of the world. Using a plug that is too "cold" really won't cause any problems. Most of the time the engine will still run, with just a bit less power. Using a plug that is too hot though can cause some problems. If the plug is too hot, compression too high, or too much nitro, you can get detonation. Detonation is when the fuel actually explodes inside the engine rather than burning quickly. When it happens it sounds like your engine is frying an egg. Usually when this happens you will get pitting on the top of the piston and on the head, and most likely you will burn through glow plugs extremely fast, often times just one run per plug.
Guideline 5 should be just the opposite. Hot and/or humidy weather creates air that is less dense than cooler and drier air. This means less fuel and air enter the combustion chamber, which slightly reduces compression. This has the same effect of adding a head shim. The reduced compression causes the glow plug to "fire" later (timing is retarded). To compensate, a hotter plug would have to be used.
In all my years I personally have never needed to change plugs with weather changes. Along with that even extreme weather conditions (changing from 30's to 90's ambient temp and 0% to 95% humidity) needle settings usually don't need to be changed by more than 1/4 turn. One of the most overlooked factors in engine tuning is barometric pressure which can cause even more significant changes to needle settings than temp and humidity.
Back to actual plug choice. The plug you choose for an engine depends on the engine and fuel you are using. The majority of big blocks out there are shimmed from the factory to run on 20-30% nitro. An O.S. #8 plug is a good "medium" plug which works well in a lot of engines. As someone mentioned, find out whether or not your engine requires a short reach plug (O.S.) or standard long reach plug (like most others).
If you do happen to use the wrong heat range plug it's not the end of the world. Using a plug that is too "cold" really won't cause any problems. Most of the time the engine will still run, with just a bit less power. Using a plug that is too hot though can cause some problems. If the plug is too hot, compression too high, or too much nitro, you can get detonation. Detonation is when the fuel actually explodes inside the engine rather than burning quickly. When it happens it sounds like your engine is frying an egg. Usually when this happens you will get pitting on the top of the piston and on the head, and most likely you will burn through glow plugs extremely fast, often times just one run per plug.



