UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

It should be able to go WOT, but it would be stressful on the conrod.

Generalx5

I have no idea why it woudnt WOT. I have the HSN set 3 and a half to 4 rotations out. Makes this rich, rich enought that it would WOT rich. The LSN is set so its just perfect, it its leaned, the engine wouldnt start. if its rich it would spew white smoke. I have it set so its got some smoke, but not alot like before.

Im going to try to go to lean again, i think its possible that the HSN might be too rich and boggs up the engine. If I do that, I would have to rich the LSN cuz my main valve has been turned down a notch. Am I doing this right?

Tell me if this is correct, if everything im doing is right, then is there such a thing as RMA? I might just RMA this set or engine itself for a new one. Its not acting the way everyone is telling me.

Generalx5

Hey guys, thanks for all the support so far, this break in cycle is long and trecherous.

It is 9:30pm local time and IM still breaking in my engine, I have ran another half tank since my last post....talking about running off the rest 20%, well I did run it down, i ran out and filled her back up again, and ran 50% more.

My progress has been slow, but im slowly reaching there. I have been able to WOT!!!!!!!!!!!

I can do it for a split second...the time the servo moves to full and back again. Here is the response on my engine. It is super responsive, a little pull would make the engine scream, after the WOT, the rpm would drop a little below my high rpm idle, and then takes about another second to recover to the high rpm idle, my guess is that my engine needs more fuel....is this right? but I have a doubt, because its not acting like it needs fuel, if my engine needed more fuel, it would rev up the rpm and then die off. but it didnt, it would recover from the WOT. If I WOT longer than 1 sec, then then engine stalls. I have just tested this, and is waiting to let the engine cool again, im breaking it in via the heat cycle method. My idle is still pretty, high, but by making the LSN leaner, I was able to drop it down a bit. Untill I fully broken in, i cant drop it anymore. Not to the point where the flywheel turns but the clutch bell doesnt....Hm...more time.

Ill keep y'all posted. I dont generally use Y'alll but its pretty popular down in the states isnt it?

=D

Generalx5

OMG Like I could never have been so wrong. I CAN WOT FOREVER!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

My expierence: Everything is so rich, breaking in more makes WOT easier to do.

For somereason, my engine would go nuts if there was no load on it. I put it on the ground and poshed on it hard so the tires wont slip. and the WOT, it went all the way. THis is bad for clutch but Im okay as long as i can break it in under load. Xtream load. Im happy because, if i had it off the ground, the engine would simply drive the wheels fast, and then stall for some reason, well that was before I havnt tested it WOT off the ground with this needle setting. Im going to remember how I set this. Its actually Lean on both HSN and LSN, Idle will be fixed later on. Im going out tomorrow and break the engine, break it in...some more.HAHAHHA YAY FOR WOT!!!!!!!

etopsflight

you should be breaking in using the heat cycle method, where the car is set slight rich and run on the ground for periods of 3 minutes then naturally cooled to ambient for a total running period of 15 minutes. car should then be run at 4 minute cycles; with cooling in between, for another 25 minutes.

the car should be driven with caution and WOT should not be for prolonged periods and quick bursts of the throttle avoided.

since you are in a cold climate, you should heat up the cylinder heat with a hair dryer/heat gun. this will help expand the piston/sleeve pinch clearance. wrap aluminium foil on the lower half of your head to keep the heat in as you want to heat the engone up as soon as possible.

GXR28 HSN factory advised settings are very rich so dun be bashful leaning it and have a temp gauge to make sure you reach the magic numbers with enough white fumes from the exhaust.

i disassembled my engine and cleaned it before running it for the first time, loads of minute dust particles left druing the manufacturing process.

my new IGT has 2.0 litres thru the engine and half way thru breaking in. very little problems so far. she starts, idles and runs a dream. dun know why people have so much problems. i'm just a basher, there are probably better engines out there but my GXR28 is a sweetie - perhaps it's just the honeymoon period! *LOL*

cheers

etopsflight

Generalx5

For some reason I think the GXR28 is too powerful for the Inferno GT Body. I dont know why. but I am able to WOT with the clutch fully engaged and tires on the floor pinned down no slippage. It seems that the engine would WOT and stay WOT if there were tremendous loads on the engine. If I lift it off the ground, it would scream for 50% throttle and past that it would just die off.

Day 5: I have ran another tank. To my surprise, I had a whole tank run dry, and I restarted so many times, forgot to check for fuel, eventually I did. It was dry, no wonder it didnt start. Filled her up and ran it out.

Adjusted LSN rich so that the engine idle rpm lowered to a heavy put put put sound... HSN 2 and a half out for running. Ran it outside in the ally doing super long figure eights. Anyways tweeked with many different adjustments. and uh....my best was 50% throttle without death. Past that the engine would cut out, I richend it, and still it would cut out. Leaned it, still cuts out.

My LSN has been more outwards because it would be rich that the engine would lower idle rpm.

Can someone explaine to me why engines would cut out if throttle past half way or so? What are the causes? Solutions for this? (My mixtures most of the time are rich.)

Generalx5

Engine wont WOT unless under constant load. Anyone has the GXR28 4.5cc engine? What are your needle settings? Please let me know...Im starting to suspect somethings wrong with my fuel....Got a lot of condensation forming in the tank. Dangit

image079

Hi, here are some things to try:

1. check fuel lines for cracks, leaks, holes etc
2. Check for leaks by blowing through exhaust, fuel line, fuel pressure line, tank and anything else you can find. Listen for leaks.
3. What fuel are you running? Go to a reputable hobby shop and buy the fuel% recommended. Don't buy from toy shop or unknown brand.
4. Change glow plug to better quality. eg O.S
5. remove HSN, dismantle and clean. There could be something caught in there.
6. check that when you screw HSN in, it actually screws all the way in. I had one that never screwed closed all the way because factory didn't cut thread to bottom.
Check by screwing closed and blowing through it. If good, open up 3.5 turns. (or factory settings)

Now to start:
1. Carby should be open 1-1.5mm. Even when brakes applied. Take air filter off and check. Adjust idle screw.
2. Now with carby open 1-1.5mm adjust LSN by screwing it all the way in GENTLY, and then back out 1.5 turns. (or factory settings)
3. HSN fully close and open out 3.5 turns. (or factory settings)
4. Remember, you may need to give a bit of throttle or adjust throttle trim to open carby a bit more for initial starting. After all these are carbys not fuel injection.

Some other things to check:
1. Glow plug screwed in tight
2. Head bolts screwed on tight.
3. Back plate screwed on tight
4. Exhaust on tight
5. Exhaust fuel pressure line not blocked (check by blowing through it)

Also, don't aim for WOT yet, just get it to run reliably with out stalling upto 50% throttle.
Then when run-in for 5 tanks, go to a large carpark and start tuning.

I hope this helps, it's all I've got for now.

image079

[X(]Ohh... I forgot to mention to check that the clutch spring isn't broken.

If it is, it will constantly drive the wheels, even at idle. And when you put it on the ground it stalls or if idle is high it takes off.

Generalx5

THanks guys! I checked it today. Took about an hour to do so, then went out and started it up. I finally made proper adjustments,

Here was my problem:

1. The HSN Was set too rich, wayyy too rich. I had not realized this untill I adjusted the Low speed Idle fuel to air mixture screw.

2. I had played around with the Air to Fuel screw for idle and realized that My idle was too rich, it would bog the engine down when I throttled. At the same time I had to cut back the HSN to make it lean.

3. The HSN was adjusted according to the idle fuel to air mixture scew, contradicting what the Supposed manual said. I found that the initial acceleration had to be lean, as well as the Hish speed settings too.

these two lean mixtures gave me perfect crazy out of this world acceleration, as well as Crazy WOT 100% throttle response. For the first time I was seeing blue smoke as apposed to White smoke.

As a bonus, It was snowing out today, the roads were slushy in my back ally. It was awesome!!!!! Luckily everyhting is built out of aluminum except the clutch bell, which Im replacing soon, as well as the clutch set.

BTW guy, 2 days ago when I WOT the car against the wall pinned down. I had severely damaged the Clutch assembly. THE ALUMINUM CLUTCH MELTED!!!! THe side walls of the clutch bell had aluminum stuck on to it, and I had totally messed it up, but I had a 10K rpm dremil drill handy, and buzzed that off and cleaned up the clutch as well. THe spring doesnt work as well as it should. So my idle has to be fairly high.

Problem fixed guys, I was able to get the fouth tank in it today as well as some crazy WOT in the snow. I seriously think that the KYOSHO INFERNO GT HAS A VERY BEEFY ENGINE!!! It would burn rubber even pinned down. THis is hard on the clutch, as I mentioned above about the aftermath.

Human error would my the first fault in any situation. As it is in my case, the lack of experience would explaine it all. This is my first Nitro car btw, or the first nitro anything. Hope it stops snowing and get to some dry ground.

Is everyone elses buggy, car a dirt magnet? Mine picked up a lot of dirt on it. I pressure washed it with my garden hose....is this okay? I was careful not to spray over the carb intake. But everything else I Jet blasted all the dirt away....


Washing nitro car with H2O is okay?

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

Watch your servos, definitely your servos.

Glad you finally got it working, and enjoy it.

Generalx5

Thanks UG0TB4NN3D
I definitly will enjoy it. Thanks for all the tips and help dude, your awesome! Servos are water proof I though...?are they not?

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

They're water resistant, but not waterproof. I wouldn't test it if they were my only servos. Lol.

pkaras1

Kyosho GXR28 BMW3 i can feel your pain from reading all this, 1 week ago i got the exact same rc with that stuborn 28GXR, i m in to engine cars for 8 years and i ve never came across this engine so difficult to break-in, i got all the symptoms, TO ALL this engine came from hell, still breaking in and any small adjustment to the needles is just to much to jump to certain conclusions (rich/lean/heat/engine fault/fuel/1mm-1.5mm/?). thank got i found this thread, i thought i was alone in the whole universe, it helps a lot to read this and i m most grateful to all that helped. my opinion is that the manufacturers of this engine designed it so that at high rpms the engine will have more than enough fuel (oil) to lube the moving parts but, from the point where the needle is fully retracted at around 40-50% of throttle the fuel that goes in is just to much for the engine to handle, and stalls. you can easily work with low rpm and set the engine to run smoothly to that amount of fuel but, when you go 50% or more it just dies, oh and one more thing, the point where the needle is fully retracted can sometimes be the point where 2nd gear engages and that puts another extra load (and too much fuel) on the engine which makes it easier to stall. the settings of this engine are not fixed by numbers, not even close, and they will never be any, my settings started from 3.5 HSN and now i think they dropped to around 2-2.2, when cutting down HSN increase slightly the flow of LSN to maintain idle rpms to normal, idle screw is the last to set. never go full throttle in just 0.5 sec, but try to increase rpm very slowly, this way you can easily correct your fault. hope i ve been of help and sorry to hear about your clutch and all.
thanks

Generalx5

Hey! Welcome to the forum!

Exactly like you said. My HSN settings are at 2.3 right now. Im in a really cold region and 2.3 should be fine wiht my engine. starting at 3 is a bad start, even from what the manufacture suggests. I feel that the needles are a bit too sensitive. Im finding myseld doing 1/16th adjustments in order to keep it running nicely.

Generalx5

Wow, what a difference, Last night I could WOT no problem, and then this morning, I couldnt, needle settings were left untouched. I tried to tune it so it could, but it just got worse. This engine is hard to maintain, gosh, I spent so much on it and I regret getting such a complicated RC nitro.

I know that my engine cuts when its too rich. My HSN is set to 2 and a quarter out from closed, and this is ideal, 3 turns out is too rich. and 2 turns or less is lean and stalls the engine. In order to keep my engine from being bogged down with fuel, I need to lean the LSN, I know that for a fact, but whenever I do that, the engine cuts down from a lack of fuel. My air to fuel mixture screw is set at about 0.7mm from flush, the manual says 0.5mm, I did some research of my own, and found that other users have needles set from 1.8mm to 1.0mm from flush. But somehow, when I screw it in to lean the idle mixture, it would stall the engine...strange. The fault Im guessing is from the design of the needle in the carb. its pitch is short, and so it could leave the little nozzle inside the carb when the mouth of the carb hasnt even opened 100%. This I think, the engineers need to redesign, it would flood before engine has a chance to climb to its max rpm. What a pain...


If you have a GXR28 engine, it would help if you could list your needle settings, any suggestions or tips too. Thanks. I did have a perfect setting just yesterday. But today is a totally different story, conditions change etc. etc.

Generalx5

Well....I have to say, the needle on that dam inferno is super super sensitive. a difference of 1 hour would make the difference between running WOT on the ground, to stalling at 30% throttle. I have discovered that the performance modifications for this GXR28 engine is within half an hour added or subtracted from 2.3 hours out from the HSN.

For those of you with the GXR 28 engine, after you get the LSN fuel to air mixture needle right. Leave it alone. The only adjustments you will be needing to do will be done on the HSN only! And make sure you don't do quarter rotations because the ideal settings are more precise than quarter turns. The needle is so short, a small 1 hour rotation is plenty for making adjustments according to your temp, humidity and etc.

Here are my idea settings.

HSN: 2.3 turns from closed position. Adjustments with + or - half an hour.
LSN(Fuel to AIR mixture screw) : 0.6mm in from Flush. the flat head screw driver slot would be horizontal to the body pan(chassy).
Idle setting: Roughly 0.9mm opening. Its close enough to being 1mm but short of it.

Hope all of you with the Inferno GT have as much fun as I do. Go out there and race, not spin around making doughtnuts.

Also A neat feature with the GXR28 engine. Is the blue Head that it comes with, if your running too lean, the temps will rise. The color will actually change form Blue to purble. You will notice the color difference between Hot and Boiling Hot.

THIS ONE IS VERY HOT.



THIS ONE IS SUPER SUPER HOT!!! SO HOT THAT THE FUEL REFUSES TO ENTER THE CARBURATOR. IT WOULD VAPOURIZE THE INSTANT IT ENTERS.



Regards,

Kyosho GXR28 Engine working dude.

Edit: Added the two pictures.

Generalx5

OMGawed!!! I broke a wheel. ran 20mph into a metal pole, all 5 spokes torn off. I want aluminum rims or something!!!

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

Oh, that's a pretty cool feature, more engines should do that. :P

Maybe you shouldn't hit poles? Lmao...Or just get dish wheels? Regardless, I think hitting a pole at 20MPH would kill the wheel.

Generalx5

Yeah, I don't know if this is only on the GXR28 engine, can anyone else confirm if the color changes from blue to purple on other engines? GXR15 or GXR21.


Are there such thing as aluminum rims? So far I have only found plastic ones. Then again, If I upgrade my rim to aluminum, I might break some other expensive parts in a bash, and then theres the trouble with CA with the tires glued onto the aluminum rim.

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, there are aluminum rims, but they'd add a lot of weight to your tires, and decrease your acceleration, and deceleration.

Generalx5

Hey guys, please check the tune, I know its hard to describe sound......Please take a minute to look at my Youtube video, this is my IGT starting up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvT_iVNQP6k

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds too rich already, and I just watched the first start. :P

Generalx5

First off! CHeck out my selections (View pictures).


Thanks UGOTB4NN3D, I leaned it some more. Now my IGT is crazy.

Sorry guys, but heres a new problem, please tell me why this happens!

If I WOT my IGT and burn rubber on the ground, after the burst of WOT, I release trigger so it goes back to idle, the engines RPM will drop below idle for about 2 to 4 seconds before climbing back to idle rpm. If i hear this happening, I would add some throttle before it would stall, most of the time it wouldnt stall, but few times it would when rpm drops below idle.

If I did this in the air, the wheels would spin fat and with the engine at high rpm, and when trigger released, the engine will drop to half of high rpm and then remain at middle rpm for a second to 3 seconds before finally dropping its rpm down to idle, it seems that the wheels spining freely helped the engine maintain high rpm...

What is my error here? My HSN too rich?

Edit: Added pictures

pkaras1

ok i ll throw my 2p in this... well my theory is that when the wheels are free and you wot, the clutch shoe sticks on the clutch bell, when you release the trigger, the current movement of the wheels are delaying the engine from going to idle for 1 or 2 secs (hence half high rpm) beware that at that point engine runs with more rpm than the air and fuel can support!. so what happens on the ground... you said you burned rubber, well after wot you immediately cut off the air and fuel and since the clutch bell is immobilized because of the car is not moving the clutch bell forces the shoe to do the same and it puts an extra load on the engine and drops your rpm for a couple of secs, at that point if you increase rpm it will most surely stall the engine. suggestions?hmmm.. i m no expert in this but i d try to lean the lsn so that when rpm are increased the engine wont choke. before you do this try cruising the car and see what happens after wot, but dont apply the brakes, the car will keep going at half max rpm even if your trigger is released! anyone any other suggestions? gxr28 is tricky and unpredictable so i would blame the engines performance on this one as other engines have better control of air and fuel mixture, yes got the same engine and does that to me as well!! i bought a new one as spare from a pro who knows about kyosho engines, he ll break it in for me and i ll check the difference, probably on monday. good luck with yours though

oh nice spare front left wheel, i see you got two IGTs both gxrs 28?