jikkuria

i have a t-maxx 2.5 with a 3.3 in it, it had has about a gallon on it in a year. i have been running traxxas 30% for a little while and had it running good at about 230-240. well, my local hobby shop was out of traxxas 30% so i bought some trinity stuff and i seemed to run well until i took the temp at 340. the motor wasn't cutting out or anything, but i know it wasn't right. i played with the carb and richened it, i got the temp down to 320 and it was at like 6 turns out. i also rune this fuel in my picco/ofna t8 and have never had these excessive temps. i realize that this was probabaly my fault because of some unseen error, but if you have any advice plz help.

savagecommander

six turns out and still running? something has to be clogged. my guess is you arent getting enough (or any) fuel. clean the carb, and i mean take it all apart and clean every little thing in it, take the motor apart and re seal everything to assure it isnt an airleak(which i doubt) switching fuels might give you a 10-15 deg change in temp.....maybe.

jikkuria

i know hat the trinity fuel is a lower oil content, and i knew it would run a lil hotter but at a 100 degree jump i tried to tune a lil for a minute, then just shut it down. i see what happened now, i believe that your right. i had sat for a little while longer than usual, and i dont think i did an after run on it that time. next free weekend i will check the carb. but lets hope the motor is trashed so i have a reason to bigblock it.

PrjctStrtFrce

My Feedback: (10)

Holly crap! Didn't know that a carb can go 6 turns out. Factory is usually around 3 turns out and that is pig rich.

Definitely take the motor apart and give it a good cleaning. Make sure that your fuel lines are intact as well as the fuel tank.

jikkuria

running 30% i usually have it about 4 1/2 turns out. but it had sat for a while without an after run i believe. i know the tank and lines are good cuz that was the first thing i checked. that leaves the fuel or the motor, and im certain the fuel isn't some factory reject. but i will go over the whole motor. i believe savagecommander made the right call with the carb being clogged. but on another note, any one know about the picco .26 carbs on a 3.3?

scarletboa

My Feedback: (1)

it actually could be the fuel. i had the same problem with my savage x 4.6 but instead, i switched back to my old fuel and got the power and the lower temps back. that traxxas fuel makes a huge difference in temps where i live (about 50-60F difference). my savage runs best on traxxas but also pretty good on XTM fuel. nitrotane is also good. it runs terrible on trinity though. it needs to be pig rich to not overheat on trinity. all my engines run best on traxxas in my opinion.

also, all the fuels i've used have been 20% nitro. i tried 25% trinity and it was decent but not as good as XTM or traxxas.
another side note , it is usually about (105-115F) in june, july and august where i live. (las vegas)

jikkuria

in my area of missouri it was around 100 degrees. i wasn't running the engine especially hard, just a few full throttle runs and mostly racing my friends buggy around the track in his back yard. i had my 17mm hexes on it and was running my buggy wheels, so it was hitting a few higher rpms. after this gallon of trinity i have i will go back to my good old traxxas.

SAVAGEJIM

Well, lets look at some other basics otehr than the needle settings itself. Yes, 6 turns out is TOO rich for TRX3.3. Something else is wrong. Other simple checks are to do the following:

1) Completely replace all fuel lines and the fuel tank. There might be holes and air leaks.
2) Replace the rubber coupler on the header and pipe. It might be ripped and giving teh fuel tank very little pressure, thuse extreme lean running.
3) Do you have the RB Innovations supercharger on it? If so, remove it! RB Innobvations is junk and that is why you are running extremely lean.
4) Dismount the engine, clean it, and inspect for obvious cracks in the block, if teh carb is loose, if the back plate is loose. If anything is loose, tighten it back up to stop air leaks there.
5) Remove the heat sinc and make sure you have teh proper number of head shims in place. If you compression ratio is too high, you could advance your ignition timing too much and worse, make your engine ping (this will DESTROY it).
6) Completely tear down the engine, completely clean and inspect it. Replace anything that is broken, worn, damaged,impropperly marred and scratched, etc.
7) As you begin to rebuild the engine, RTV seal it to eliminate any possible air leaks or future possible air leaks.
8) On the carb itself, take out teh needles, disassemble, carefully clean, and inspect thoroughly. Replace the needle O-rings. If the needle tips are damaged, replace the needle. RTV thr carb when you put it back onto teh block. Most of all, when you tighten the carb back onto teh block, DO NOT oertightern the retaining scre, this will compress teh carb barrel from round to oval,this will creat a air leak.

jikkuria

i once looked at the supercharger, but i looked up some info, and decided not to. im running the dynamite pipe on it, and i replaced the rubber seal between the header and the pipe not too long ago. i will check both seals though. i will take the entire motor apart and inspect everything and may even take it to my lhs and have them look over it if i cant find a flaw/issue. i dont believe i have taken this motor apart since i bought it, but i hope too see good things in the block, because i can get a new carb lickety split. i have the sealent at my house and i planned to seal that motor, as i sealed my others. but i'll tell soon when i take a look.