how to 'revive' engine thats been put down for a while
#1
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From: , JAMAICA
i have an OS .18 CV-R that was put down for a while (about 2 years)..i took it up the other day and its now seized.
is it screwed?? or can it be revived some way? my buddy told my to pull it apart and soak the sleeve and piston in acetone for about 24 hours..are there any other alternatives to that?
is it screwed?? or can it be revived some way? my buddy told my to pull it apart and soak the sleeve and piston in acetone for about 24 hours..are there any other alternatives to that?
#2
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From: radcliff,
KY
you can
A. heat it in your oven at 300 degrees for about 15 minuets, and remove it wearing good gloves to remove the piston and sleeve.
B. try taking the glow plug out and putting in some break free, available in the gun department at walmart usually, or some PB blaster, which is available at most auto parts stores, let it soak for a while then try to turn her over.
C. really really hot water, but youll have to make sure you dissasymble it all the way and clean it thouroughly.
all these methods require a new piston and sleeve.
however your first step would be to detirmine whether the front bearing is the stuck part, or if its the piston and sleeve. needless to say, youve got some work ahead of you.
let us know how it goes, most everyone on here is willing to help.
A. heat it in your oven at 300 degrees for about 15 minuets, and remove it wearing good gloves to remove the piston and sleeve.
B. try taking the glow plug out and putting in some break free, available in the gun department at walmart usually, or some PB blaster, which is available at most auto parts stores, let it soak for a while then try to turn her over.
C. really really hot water, but youll have to make sure you dissasymble it all the way and clean it thouroughly.
all these methods require a new piston and sleeve.
however your first step would be to detirmine whether the front bearing is the stuck part, or if its the piston and sleeve. needless to say, youve got some work ahead of you.
let us know how it goes, most everyone on here is willing to help.
#3
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From: , ME
Take the head off and remove the back plate. Spray the piston and sleeve with WD40, spray the bearings, con rod, and carb with WD40 as well. Let it sit overnight and she should free up. Do not turn the engine over at this point, as any stray rust and debris will surely scratch the piston and sleeve. Once free you will need to disassemble the engine to clean any left over gook and dirt that might be in there, I use denatured alchohol for this. Inspect the piston and sleeve for scratches, check bearings for any rust. Replace any parts that look worn or rusty. If castor oil was in the fuel you may have deposits that can look like rust, after soaking overnight in the alcohol these deposits will be gone, any stains or pits in the metal remaining would then be rust. Most of the time the engine isn't actually siezed, but rather the oil has dried up into a sticky gluey mess that makes the engine appear to be seized. I recently went through this with an engine that sat for 15 years with no after run oil in it.
The only parts I needed to replace were the crank bearings due to a small amount of rust there. Engine runs great. As a previous poster said, heat will help to free things up as well. Hope this helps.
The only parts I needed to replace were the crank bearings due to a small amount of rust there. Engine runs great. As a previous poster said, heat will help to free things up as well. Hope this helps.
#4
I agree with the above guys. It's probably "stuck" due to gummed up fuel residue and not actually seized (as in "rusted together").
If you lack some of the mentioned solvents, an easy solution is to pour a bit of fuel down the glowplug hole. The carb should be taken apart and cleaned. So should the engine, but if it frees up nicely with the fuel in it, you can be lazy like me and just try to get it started.
I just got all my RCs going. They all sat, without ARO, all winter. A few were sticky to turn over, but once the fuel got to the cylinder, they were fine. Two required I clean the carbs.
If you lack some of the mentioned solvents, an easy solution is to pour a bit of fuel down the glowplug hole. The carb should be taken apart and cleaned. So should the engine, but if it frees up nicely with the fuel in it, you can be lazy like me and just try to get it started.
I just got all my RCs going. They all sat, without ARO, all winter. A few were sticky to turn over, but once the fuel got to the cylinder, they were fine. Two required I clean the carbs.
#5
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From: , JAMAICA
thanks for the responses guys..when i have some time i will get to it and report back..
need to go pick up some WD40
need to go pick up some WD40
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From: radcliff,
KY
i hear ya. i just got done freeing up my pro 15. its heavily modded, if you noticed my post asking for a good tuned pipe for it lol,
i had to use the hot water method plus fuel to get it all the way free. (tryed fuel first)
but its running now. bench tested with stock exhaust.
i had to use the hot water method plus fuel to get it all the way free. (tryed fuel first)
but its running now. bench tested with stock exhaust.




