as722

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, Kregg.
Looking good, You might want to consider making a bottom removable hatch on the bottom rear of the fusealage, it will make life easy if you ever have to get back there. I'll post a picture of mine later.

Albert Santiago

jjamesrb

My Feedback: (39)

Hi Kregg,

You made the same mistake on your hatch bottom as i did, the strips don't go all the way back, if you look on the print (which i thought it was built the same way the 330 was but its not) the 1/8 sheeting starts in the foam area, i had to cut the small strips back,no big deal.Other than that everything is looking great.All i got left to sheet is the wings.

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

James, Do you mean the 1/2 inch wide strips under the top hatch? The top hatch being the part in front of the clear canopy. I'm not following you on your point. I will look at the plans closer this evening.

Alberto, I would love to see pix of your hatch. Please shoot away.

Thx,
Kregg

jjamesrb

My Feedback: (39)

Hi Kregg, yea the 1/2 wide strips under the top hatch ( and make sure you use 1/8 for stripping not 1/16). Look at the blueprint and you can see where the strips end and the 1/8th inch balsa sheeting begins for the flooring under the canopy.The 1/8th inch balsa sheeting glues to part of the top hatch under the canopy.

as722

My Feedback: (1)

As promised.

as722

My Feedback: (1)

If you decide to go with the removable hatch make sure you install gussets on the 3/8" square cross and diagonal members. I know a few guys that didn't do this and later whished they did. ( where are you Rob T.) LOL.

Albert Santiago

jjamesrb

My Feedback: (39)

You definitely want the removeable hatch underneath.Getting to the servo connections otherwise would be very difficult and if you need to add weight you can add it to the bottom hatch.

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

James, Thanks for the detailed description. Now I understand. I already used 1/16 for the strips. I guess I will just double them up where needed and remove for the floor.

Alberto, Thanks! Those pix are perfect. That is a very nice mod and I will do the same. Makes perfect sense.

PJFaller

Kregg,

Hows it coming...Keep this thread alive!!! Im just finishing my 40% Carden 330...hope to fly it soon.

Pete

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

Updates are going a bit slower. Here are a few.

These pix show the installation of the servo wire tube and the twin antenna tubes. I stole a clever idea from a friend. Look closely at the antenna tube. A thin thread has been preinstalled in these tubes to make the RX installation nice and smooth. After it is installed the thread will remain attached to the antenna end and the extra thread will be wrapped around something for use later. When you need to remove the RX, just slide it out and the thread is back in place.

Not quite genius, but simple and effective.

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

Next I have started gluing on the large fuse pieces. I used Ultimate glue on the large bottom panel since it is foam to wood. I used wood glue for the turtle deck since it is wood to wood. The fuse is starting to take shape. Another pic shows the rear ply plate for the beginning of my rear bottom hatch like someone showed above. Lastly, I have glued in the stab tube of my horiz stab cores. waiting for the Ultimate glue to expand and dry.

btomlinson

My Feedback: (58)

Lookin good Kregg... how much time would you estimate spent so far ??


Brian

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

If I had worked straight through to this point and not had to wait for glue to dry. I would say 25 hours??? Maybe. That would not include the 20 hours standing around looking at what I have done and what I need to do next. I often grab a beer or two and just look & think. Planning and anticipating is half the fun of building. Sometimes I almost feel let down when a project is finished. Then I start flying and forget about it.

cbk07

My Feedback: (64)

Kregg, it looks like your moving right along. I know a weak point on these is where the Rudder counterbalance meets the rudder (at the 90 deg cut). The guys up here have been boring a hole from the top of the counterbalance back at a 45 deg angle towards the trailing edge of the rudder. It passes right near the cutout. Then polyurethane in a small carbon rod. It eliminates the small crack that always seems to start there. I can forward a pic if it will help as my description is a little weak. Talk to you soon, Craig

btomlinson

My Feedback: (58)

cbk07... please post a pic of this coutnerbalance modd

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

Your description makes sense and i can picture the mod. If you have a pic that is always helpful. Thx

cbk07

My Feedback: (64)

Here is a pic of where I located the rod. You can bore a hole with sharpened or heated brass tubing and then insert rod on an angle as shown. Ideally, you would do it before capping the counterbalance. As the pic shows, I did it after. My last Edge as well as several others at the field have 1/4" - 1" cracks here. I also did my elevators, but don't believe the 260 has counter balanced elevators. Craig

Flyin Woodbutcher

My Feedback: (3)

Hi fellas , carbon fiber tissue works well also, keeps the crack from showing thru the covering. I have knocked this counter bal off before ,also have a dowel inserted.

Kent

Carden Cap 232 35%

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

do you soak the tissue with CA?

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

Excellent ideas on strengthening the counter balances.

I have been pretty busy today. here are some pix showing me cutting out the servo bays in the stabs. I'm going with two in each side.

Flyin Woodbutcher

My Feedback: (3)

yes , soaked it and rubbed it in good. As for the elevator counter bals. I laid carbon fiber tissue down on both sides of the cores before I vac bagged the stab asembly. These things are soild.

Kent

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

Next I sheeted the vertic stab base mount area on the fuse.

Kregg

My Feedback: (45)

Then I started working on the hatch and canopy. I cut down the canopy to use as a template. Marked the front canopy location and moved the line back .25 inches. A band saw comes in very handy for the cutting of the hatch deck to that curve.

as722

My Feedback: (1)

Kregg, I see you cut out for two servos per stab and just wanted to let you know that I now have 350 flights on my 330 with one 8611 per elvator with out any issues. The only reason they're showing two on the plans is because when the 330 was designed there wasn't many strong servos available. (stabs on 330 and 260 are the same with the exception of the counter balance). In fact when I built my 330 two years ago I built the stabs for two servos just in case I needed the second servo and I monokoted over the empty servo bay but it has never been an issue.

Albert Santiago

jjamesrb

My Feedback: (39)

Kregg, if you use a soldering iron its much easier to do the servo bays and in the wings you can make the tunnel and it seals the foam so you can slide the wires through without catching on the foam pieces all over and it doesn't make a mess at all.If you look on the wing you can see the piece i made out of copper wire to make the tunnels.