as722

My Feedback: (1)

Isn't that a cute couple? Be carefull you might have little extras running around in the morning ! LOL


Albert

capflyr

My Feedback: (1)

If so can I adopt one, looks great keep up the great work luv the pics.

Mark786

Kelly,
Sorry for the late input but in case anyone else needs the info here goes.
The best fiberglass adhesive is Hysol made by Loctite (I learned this from Walt). Don't bother with the tips as these don't mix very well.
I learned the hard way that this stuff needs to be mixed very well or it won't harden. I don't even use the gun, just push it out on a board with a dowel.
I believe that the BVM stuff is just relabeled and TBM sells it much cheaper.
I also had problems getting anything to stick to the fiberglass even using alcohol. I used soap and water to get the release wax off and then everything would stick.
Again nice build. I maidened my 260 Christmas eve. I sure love the way these big Carden's fly.
Mark

kregan

Good info Mark, congratulations on the maiden!

I finished up with the throttle and choke servo mounts and the holes
through the front bulkhead for the control rods. I used a gringing wheel
and removed the stock carberator arms and installed the ones provided
with the engines. The picture shows 4/40 all thread, but I was just using
that for alignment.

I put the fuses aside and started to work on seperating the control surfaces
and making the hinge line.

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

Kelly- those carb arms look great- I did the same thing on the Super 160 on my Carden. Only suggestion I would make is to use nylon insert nuts on those 4-40 bolts.

One other thing- don't look now but I think you might have a stalker..... everytime I check out this thread kkling something or another is signed in and viewing. Just watch yourself.....

kkling77

My Feedback: (16)

Dave, I have no idea what you're talking about [sm=72_72.gif]

RobT

My Feedback: (17)

Have to say that carb setup almost makes me want to switch to a ZDZ . . . Almost.

kregan

Your right Dave... That guy is following me!!!

I cut out all the stabs and have most of them glued up.
Broke a blade on the band saw and had to spend some
time locating new ones. Don't you hate it when someone
lends you stuff that breaks!

Ohh... lock nuts for sure... I just use regular nuts for setup.

kregan

I finished up on the stabs/elevators and started work on the main wings.

I ran into a problem with the incidence adjustment pin I installed. I forgot
I was doing longer ailerons and as you can see the pin ran into the aileron
and I had to cut about 2" off the pin.

To strengthen the pin I will plane on increasing the size of the sheeting from
1/8" to 1/4" and notch the pin into the sheeting. This might end up being
stronger then having the pin terminate in the foam.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

No counter balances on the elevator? Whats the advantages of both types?

as722

My Feedback: (1)

Full scale 300 and 260 do not have counter balances and it makes it a heck of a lot easier to do the stabs. With the power today's servos have they're not needed anyway.


Albert

as722

My Feedback: (1)

I think you're right, by having the pin go into 1/4" balsa it should be stronger. Looking good !


Albert

kregan

OK, second mistake of the day!

When I cut out the aileron I was using the templates I made
way back in the start of this thread. I had correctly laid out
the hinge material at 3/8" thick.

Today when marking the wings I looked at the template and
told myself that it had to be wrong because the hing material
was 1/2" thick.

WRONG !!! [sm=cry_smile.gif]

Bottom line... I cut out 1/4" to much material. I am fixing this
mistake by gluing 1/8" sheeting to both the wing and the aileron
before I add the hinge material.

No real harm, just several hours extra work for me. I was only
working with one set of wings today so I can avoid this extra work
on the next pair.

zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

Kelly,

With that kind of mistake, I think you should sell me the Plane.

Great job, your doing amazing work!

Ward

kregan

Thanks for the compliments!

I laid back for a few nights and did a little here and there....
finishing one set of wings/ailerons except for the hard points.

On to the next pair.

kregan

Over the weekend I finished up the second set of wings
and ailerons. I also started to work on the control panels.

This is my first draft of a layout in cad. I guessed at the
radius around the instrument panel and got pretty close.

The circles for the instruments are 1" diameter. Anyone know
how large the actual instruments are on a full scale extra?

I think 1" might be a hair to large?

I was planing on drilling out styrene sheet and putting color printed
instruments behind some clear lexan.

kregan

I worked on the panel layout today.

Photoshoped the instruments to fit the cad drawing
and merged them together for a test fit.

I need to get color prints made but this is what I
have so far.

kregan

I know I should just buy the panels but this is fun to mess with...

I cut the panel holes and then made a die and press to form the
screw heads.

I used a #42 drill rod in the drill press and punched the screw heads
into the styrene from the rear.

kregan

sweet

Now I want to make a front panel, but I haven't seen
anyone do that. I think I would need to build the
front panel out some from the present location?

Those are just some black and white drafts of the instruments,
I might need to find higher res images of them.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

They looked pretty good to me. Nice job. Do you remember how much glue you used when sheeting the wings? I'm doing a set of 40% Edge wings now and used about 3 to 4 ounces for one wing panel, both sides. That was spreading it thin after spraying it down with water, which seemed to make it easier to spread.

kregan

Mrbigg...

I used 1 3/4 oz per side + a little if it looked thin.

I wanted to make the sequence board removable so you could change the
sequence if you wanted to.

I used 2/56 socket caps with the sequence sandwiched between 2 .015 peices
of clear styrene. I need spacers but did not want to take a chance of the spacers
falling off into the plane if the board worked loose, so I put 4 2/56 nuts on a socket
cap and turned them down to remove the flats. 8 total spacers are needed per
board.

I plan on using 2/56 blind nuts behind the panel to hold the board in place.

kregan

Worked up the second panel today.

I gave up on the idea of building front panels for the second
seat. The design of the front panel area is far from scale and
it would require a rebuild of the front.

The front panel mods could be done without a lot of effort if
you planed it from the start. All you would need to do is extend
the upper front faom deck and cut it in a shape similar to the
outline of the canopy (blue tape line in the picture). Minimal
extra weight.

Anyone know why that was not incorporated in the original plan?

kregan

Started priming and filling the balsa in the cockpits.

kregan

One untaped and one drying.

I decided not to paint the exposed 3/8" square cross braces
because one installed on the plane you would see the wood.
This way they match up.

I also taped off the underside so there would not be any ugly
over spray on the underside of the canopy hatch when removed.

I went with a solid light gray color for the cockpit instead of the
stone speckled paint. It is not perfect but making the balsa grain
disappear without glassing is a lot of work, I did the best I could.

Neilbo4

Looks Great!! Much better than I could do. How long do you think before you start covering these birds?

Neil