tuning and running
#1
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
they there just started this thread to try and get rid of the bull**** and concentrate on getting these puppies running at full tilt,
if anyone is interested please post good things and helpfull things car setups for different condition tell stories of mad air and insane drift and the like CEN Tech we would love to hear Buzz updates of new hopups in the pipeline for GENESIS
and the like feel free but no comlpaining please iam fully aware that ppl have had there fair share of problems and this is all good but for those that have had none to little problems we would like and i hope i speak on behalf of a few ppl
to have a place to say nice things about our genny so as i appriciate your side of the fence i hope you can do the same in return!!
if anyone is interested please post good things and helpfull things car setups for different condition tell stories of mad air and insane drift and the like CEN Tech we would love to hear Buzz updates of new hopups in the pipeline for GENESIS
and the like feel free but no comlpaining please iam fully aware that ppl have had there fair share of problems and this is all good but for those that have had none to little problems we would like and i hope i speak on behalf of a few ppl
to have a place to say nice things about our genny so as i appriciate your side of the fence i hope you can do the same in return!!
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From: City of Industry,
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Here is our Team Drivers (Andrew Smolnik, and Mike Walker) set-ups for the GENESIS when Racing. This will help with the handeling of the GENESIS.
Shocks: 10wt shock oil (silicone) all around with the #3 pistons. (largest hole pistons included with truck) Remove the top shock when racing. Lower the body as low as possible. This helps with LCG (low center of gravity) and the engine will cool more efficiently. Run 15mm shock clips to each shock.. clips included in the kit.
Body: Trim a 2 1/2" circle in the windshield for increased air flow to the engine. You also may need to trim the body a bit where the engine sits, when lowering it.
ENGINE: Removing the baffles inside the pipe increases the power band, however keep in mind that the noise level is much louder. Back pressure is not affected. Engine Settings. Top end: 3 1/4 turns out. Bottom end. 2 turns in from flush.
Differentials: Front and Rear differentials are filled with 100,000 wt silicone oil. Center Differential installed, (NO locker for racing) Use 300,000 + wt silicone oil. (not even sure you should call it oil at this point.. ; )
Shift Units: 2nd speed 5 1/2 turns out. 3rd speed 7 1/2 turns out. Adjustments may vary depending on the size of track..
For racing the Reverse servo is removed and reverse unit is locked into forward position only.
CEN RACING
Shocks: 10wt shock oil (silicone) all around with the #3 pistons. (largest hole pistons included with truck) Remove the top shock when racing. Lower the body as low as possible. This helps with LCG (low center of gravity) and the engine will cool more efficiently. Run 15mm shock clips to each shock.. clips included in the kit.
Body: Trim a 2 1/2" circle in the windshield for increased air flow to the engine. You also may need to trim the body a bit where the engine sits, when lowering it.
ENGINE: Removing the baffles inside the pipe increases the power band, however keep in mind that the noise level is much louder. Back pressure is not affected. Engine Settings. Top end: 3 1/4 turns out. Bottom end. 2 turns in from flush.
Differentials: Front and Rear differentials are filled with 100,000 wt silicone oil. Center Differential installed, (NO locker for racing) Use 300,000 + wt silicone oil. (not even sure you should call it oil at this point.. ; )
Shift Units: 2nd speed 5 1/2 turns out. 3rd speed 7 1/2 turns out. Adjustments may vary depending on the size of track..
For racing the Reverse servo is removed and reverse unit is locked into forward position only.
CEN RACING
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From: Umeå, SWEDEN
CEN RACING:
i have a genesis and I'm very happy with it, it's awesome much power and high speeds.
To your post.
If you can explain what the #3pistons (largest hole included with truck) is??? I don't understand what it is??
I'm new to this hobby so if some one or CEN Racing could explain I would be very happy.
Thanks for a great truck CEN racing
i have a genesis and I'm very happy with it, it's awesome much power and high speeds.
To your post.
If you can explain what the #3pistons (largest hole included with truck) is??? I don't understand what it is??
I'm new to this hobby so if some one or CEN Racing could explain I would be very happy.
Thanks for a great truck CEN racing
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Jadda,
The # 3 piston's that we are talking about are included with the extra shock clips etc in your kit. They are small disks with two holes in them that go inside the shock. The hole is what allows the oil to travel through. The smaller the hole, the more pack you will have the larger hole will allow oil to travel through the hole at a faster rate. Which in turn, will give your vehicle quicker response. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your question.
Regards,
CEN RACING
The # 3 piston's that we are talking about are included with the extra shock clips etc in your kit. They are small disks with two holes in them that go inside the shock. The hole is what allows the oil to travel through. The smaller the hole, the more pack you will have the larger hole will allow oil to travel through the hole at a faster rate. Which in turn, will give your vehicle quicker response. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your question.
Regards,
CEN RACING
#5
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
i was thinking of installing the central dif bev gears myself can you expand on what they do and also interested on your comments on the removal of the baffle in the pipe will this give a power increase and can there be any downsides to doing it ?? also i would like some reference to installing the bev gears could not really see it it the manual provided. Thanks for your comments
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From: City of Industry,
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Powerslave,
Installing the center differential will give you truck much better handling. However your truck will loose "wheelie" capabilities. What a center differential does, is it transfers the power to any wheel that leaves the ground. For instance. Your truck will want to wheelie, then when the front end begins to leave the surface, the center differential will begin to "Diff" transfering all the power to the front end. The power is also transfered a single wheel that happens to leave the ground. This helps the truck gain manueverability in rough terrains where the truck is tossed from side to side up and down etc..... In other words it will feel like the bumps, washboard section, etc are not even there. To an extent. It also relieves drivetrain stress. Out drives will last longer, because all the load (5hp) is not on One Or Two outdrives at a time... rather it is on four or more at a time.
Removing the baffles inside the pipe simply increases the flow. There is minimal performance increase, but there is a little. Also, removing the baffle and cone from the pipe gives the engine a much louder, deeper sound. This is not recommended for residential areas, as it can be quite loud.
Installing the bev gears is actually quite simple. Just remove the locker device, and the two locker pins on each outdrive. Then install the two new pins along with each large bevel gear onto each outdrive. Next you install the gears into the slots that are in the diff-case. Then you will want to screw on one side of the outdrives first before filling the differential with the desired fluid. (Recommended 300,000 + silicone oil) then seal the differential using one gasket per side. Included. If you need thorough instructions you can email [email protected] and they will send you the attachment. Thanks for your questions.
Regards,
CEN RACING
Installing the center differential will give you truck much better handling. However your truck will loose "wheelie" capabilities. What a center differential does, is it transfers the power to any wheel that leaves the ground. For instance. Your truck will want to wheelie, then when the front end begins to leave the surface, the center differential will begin to "Diff" transfering all the power to the front end. The power is also transfered a single wheel that happens to leave the ground. This helps the truck gain manueverability in rough terrains where the truck is tossed from side to side up and down etc..... In other words it will feel like the bumps, washboard section, etc are not even there. To an extent. It also relieves drivetrain stress. Out drives will last longer, because all the load (5hp) is not on One Or Two outdrives at a time... rather it is on four or more at a time.
Removing the baffles inside the pipe simply increases the flow. There is minimal performance increase, but there is a little. Also, removing the baffle and cone from the pipe gives the engine a much louder, deeper sound. This is not recommended for residential areas, as it can be quite loud.
Installing the bev gears is actually quite simple. Just remove the locker device, and the two locker pins on each outdrive. Then install the two new pins along with each large bevel gear onto each outdrive. Next you install the gears into the slots that are in the diff-case. Then you will want to screw on one side of the outdrives first before filling the differential with the desired fluid. (Recommended 300,000 + silicone oil) then seal the differential using one gasket per side. Included. If you need thorough instructions you can email [email protected] and they will send you the attachment. Thanks for your questions.
Regards,
CEN RACING
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
man i cant see how ppl think these banggers are no good went out today for the first real crack at the big time, Engine is running sweet now alot easier to start and man it gose like the wind. Have started to lean it out a bit now that i have had a few (well in your terms of measurement) abit ove half a gallon of fuel. took a few mates out and teared up this open clearing with a few mounds getting good air and the like.
anyways on the bad side of things towards the end of the day we noticed that the rear wheels went going real well they are not getting full power to the fronts are fine but is dragging heavly from the front CEN tech or anyone else that could give me an idea of trouble shooting this problem advice would be mostly appreciated, I have a feeling it will lie somewhere in the rear diff area could be the reverse nuts i was throwing but hey is all good tis all fun and games
cheers for now.
oh CEN have 2 mates the will be getting there cars this week after seeing mine in action i think i should start getting some spotters fee ?? HEHEHEHE
anyways on the bad side of things towards the end of the day we noticed that the rear wheels went going real well they are not getting full power to the fronts are fine but is dragging heavly from the front CEN tech or anyone else that could give me an idea of trouble shooting this problem advice would be mostly appreciated, I have a feeling it will lie somewhere in the rear diff area could be the reverse nuts i was throwing but hey is all good tis all fun and games
cheers for now.
oh CEN have 2 mates the will be getting there cars this week after seeing mine in action i think i should start getting some spotters fee ?? HEHEHEHE
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From: DORSET, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: powerslave
man i cant see how ppl think these banggers are no good went out today for the first real crack at the big time, Engine is running sweet now alot easier to start and man it gose like the wind. Have started to lean it out a bit now that i have had a few (well in your terms of measurement) abit ove half a gallon of fuel. took a few mates out and teared up this open clearing with a few mounds getting good air and the like.
anyways on the bad side of things towards the end of the day we noticed that the rear wheels went going real well they are not getting full power to the fronts are fine but is dragging heavly from the front CEN tech or anyone else that could give me an idea of trouble shooting this problem advice would be mostly appreciated, I have a feeling it will lie somewhere in the rear diff area could be the reverse nuts i was throwing but hey is all good tis all fun and games
cheers for now.
oh CEN have 2 mates the will be getting there cars this week after seeing mine in action i think i should start getting some spotters fee ?? HEHEHEHE
man i cant see how ppl think these banggers are no good went out today for the first real crack at the big time, Engine is running sweet now alot easier to start and man it gose like the wind. Have started to lean it out a bit now that i have had a few (well in your terms of measurement) abit ove half a gallon of fuel. took a few mates out and teared up this open clearing with a few mounds getting good air and the like.
anyways on the bad side of things towards the end of the day we noticed that the rear wheels went going real well they are not getting full power to the fronts are fine but is dragging heavly from the front CEN tech or anyone else that could give me an idea of trouble shooting this problem advice would be mostly appreciated, I have a feeling it will lie somewhere in the rear diff area could be the reverse nuts i was throwing but hey is all good tis all fun and games
cheers for now.
oh CEN have 2 mates the will be getting there cars this week after seeing mine in action i think i should start getting some spotters fee ?? HEHEHEHE
] Check the grub screw on the rear prop mine keeps coming loose or out even with locktight. Maybe this is a side affect of having the centre diff locked i.e. BIG wheelies
#9
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
yhea cool thanks for that
hey any tips on cleanning technique ?? if i take the servos out and wash it will this be ok ? also do CEN have any plans to bring out any hopups to make these trucks more water proof ? i saww a clip with the BFT going through mud and stuff looked pretty cool
anyways thanks all for the posts hope to hear a reply shortly
hey any tips on cleanning technique ?? if i take the servos out and wash it will this be ok ? also do CEN have any plans to bring out any hopups to make these trucks more water proof ? i saww a clip with the BFT going through mud and stuff looked pretty cool
anyways thanks all for the posts hope to hear a reply shortly
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
yhea is that the the bit that the rear tail shaft slides into ?? that grub screw was losse i could slide it strait of the shaft
Ok since have seemed to fix the problem with the rear axle joint i have filed the grub screw down to make it flater and installed with lock tight seems to work fine, My mate has a genny to and he drilled a small divet in the flat side of the shaft comming out of the diff and installed the grub screw with lock tight this i hope should help.
Ok since have seemed to fix the problem with the rear axle joint i have filed the grub screw down to make it flater and installed with lock tight seems to work fine, My mate has a genny to and he drilled a small divet in the flat side of the shaft comming out of the diff and installed the grub screw with lock tight this i hope should help.
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From: City of Industry,
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bilko,
Try using Reg lock-tite. It is a bit stronger.
Powerslave,
We have many upgrades on the way. We will keep you posted as info is recieved. Water-proof huh....? I will bring it up. Sound like a good idea.
Regards,
CEN RACING
Try using Reg lock-tite. It is a bit stronger.
Powerslave,
We have many upgrades on the way. We will keep you posted as info is recieved. Water-proof huh....? I will bring it up. Sound like a good idea.
Regards,
CEN RACING
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
Cheers CEN Tech, that would be good if you can post the latest info on upgrades. Taking of the center shock and putting the larger spacers in will that affect its off road abilities (climing over stuff, ruff surfaces and jumping/landding) or is more for real track work ? Where i live there are no monster truck tracks allthough am in the prosses of trying to get some time on a local BMX track. Also is there any place to post vid clips of the genny in action ??
thanks allways for your support CEN and hope to hear from you soon !
CHEERS FROM AUSSIELAND ,
thanks allways for your support CEN and hope to hear from you soon !
CHEERS FROM AUSSIELAND ,
#13
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From: City of Industry,
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Removing the over-head shock will not reduce the fuctioning of the truck at all. It will create less pack, when landing HUGE jumps. But That is about it.
We will keep everyone posted on the newest upgrades etc. with the GENESIS when info becomes available.
We dont currently have a video "post" on our site. However, we were thinking of adding a ( Customer's Ridez section ) Where we will post pictures of customers CEN Product and videos. What do you guys think?
Regards,
CEN RACING
We will keep everyone posted on the newest upgrades etc. with the GENESIS when info becomes available.
We dont currently have a video "post" on our site. However, we were thinking of adding a ( Customer's Ridez section ) Where we will post pictures of customers CEN Product and videos. What do you guys think?
Regards,
CEN RACING
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From: City of Industry,
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Powerslave,
Cool. If you have any videos at this time you can post them here or you can send them to [email protected] Thanks!
CEN RACING
Cool. If you have any videos at this time you can post them here or you can send them to [email protected] Thanks!
CEN RACING
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
no worries i think i have mannaged to get some time on the local BMX track should make for some interesting vidz i think will keep you informed !
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From: Dybvad, DENMARK
Here is our Team Drivers (Andrew Smolnik, and Mike Walker) set-ups for the GENESIS when Racing. This will help with the handeling of the GENESIS.
Shocks: 10wt shock oil (silicone) all around with the #3 pistons. (largest hole pistons included with truck) Remove the top shock when racing. Lower the body as low as possible. This helps with LCG (low center of gravity) and the engine will cool more efficiently. Run 15mm shock clips to each shock.. clips included in the kit.
Body: Trim a 2 1/2" circle in the windshield for increased air flow to the engine. You also may need to trim the body a bit where the engine sits, when lowering it.
ENGINE: Removing the baffles inside the pipe increases the power band, however keep in mind that the noise level is much louder. Back pressure is not affected. Engine Settings. Top end: 3 1/4 turns out. Bottom end. 2 turns in from flush.
Differentials: Front and Rear differentials are filled with 100,000 wt silicone oil. Center Differential installed, (NO locker for racing) Use 300,000 + wt silicone oil. (not even sure you should call it oil at this point.. ; )
Shift Units: 2nd speed 5 1/2 turns out. 3rd speed 7 1/2 turns out. Adjustments may vary depending on the size of track..
CEN RACING
I have done all that, an still its not shifting in to 3rd gear, how can i fix that, here is what i done, Lock the 2nd gear and tried all settings on the 2 screws in the internal clutch and still nothing, then i unlock the 2nd 4½turns out, and did it all over again whit 3rd gear but still nothing, nothing at all.
Please help me, because it is a nice truck it have it all except the 3rd gear.
Yours
Michael
from Denmark
Shocks: 10wt shock oil (silicone) all around with the #3 pistons. (largest hole pistons included with truck) Remove the top shock when racing. Lower the body as low as possible. This helps with LCG (low center of gravity) and the engine will cool more efficiently. Run 15mm shock clips to each shock.. clips included in the kit.
Body: Trim a 2 1/2" circle in the windshield for increased air flow to the engine. You also may need to trim the body a bit where the engine sits, when lowering it.
ENGINE: Removing the baffles inside the pipe increases the power band, however keep in mind that the noise level is much louder. Back pressure is not affected. Engine Settings. Top end: 3 1/4 turns out. Bottom end. 2 turns in from flush.
Differentials: Front and Rear differentials are filled with 100,000 wt silicone oil. Center Differential installed, (NO locker for racing) Use 300,000 + wt silicone oil. (not even sure you should call it oil at this point.. ; )
Shift Units: 2nd speed 5 1/2 turns out. 3rd speed 7 1/2 turns out. Adjustments may vary depending on the size of track..
CEN RACING
I have done all that, an still its not shifting in to 3rd gear, how can i fix that, here is what i done, Lock the 2nd gear and tried all settings on the 2 screws in the internal clutch and still nothing, then i unlock the 2nd 4½turns out, and did it all over again whit 3rd gear but still nothing, nothing at all.
Please help me, because it is a nice truck it have it all except the 3rd gear.
Yours
Michael
from Denmark
#20
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From: City of Industry,
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Michael,
Are you sure that you are tuning the correct screw's in the internal clutch shoes. There are two set screws that hold the shoes to the hub. Then there are the two adjustsing screws. a total of four screws per shoe. You need to adjust the screws that are sitting at an angle.
Regards,
CEN RACING
Are you sure that you are tuning the correct screw's in the internal clutch shoes. There are two set screws that hold the shoes to the hub. Then there are the two adjustsing screws. a total of four screws per shoe. You need to adjust the screws that are sitting at an angle.
Regards,
CEN RACING
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From: Dybvad, DENMARK
ORIGINAL: CEN Racing
Michael,
Are you sure that you are tuning the correct screw's in the internal clutch shoes. There are two set screws that hold the shoes to the hub. Then there are the two adjustsing screws. a total of four screws per shoe. You need to adjust the screws that are sitting at an angle.
Regards,
CEN RACING
Michael,
Are you sure that you are tuning the correct screw's in the internal clutch shoes. There are two set screws that hold the shoes to the hub. Then there are the two adjustsing screws. a total of four screws per shoe. You need to adjust the screws that are sitting at an angle.
Regards,
CEN RACING
Are you sure off what you are talking about, because there is only 2 screws in the clutch, maby you shut see in the assembly manual before you tell os what to do.
Michael
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
uh michael there are actual 4 screws 2 grub screws and 2 normal 1 silver and 1 black these are the ones that set third gear i know cause this is what i did the first time i tryed to ajjust 3rd gear these screws also sit on an angle.
and i think the CEN techs would know what they are talking about !!
also CEN tech can i also remove the arms that come up to hold the center shock in place i cant seem to get the body quite low enough I THINK ??
and i think the CEN techs would know what they are talking about !!
also CEN tech can i also remove the arms that come up to hold the center shock in place i cant seem to get the body quite low enough I THINK ??
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From: Dybvad, DENMARK
uh michael there are actual 4 screws
Butt there is only 2 screws in the clutch, all the other screws in the car due not adjust the internal clutch, I get alittle pist over the things that cen told me, and i now that im turning the rigth screws because it works on 2nd gear butt not the 3rd gear
Butt there is only 2 screws in the clutch, all the other screws in the car due not adjust the internal clutch, I get alittle pist over the things that cen told me, and i now that im turning the rigth screws because it works on 2nd gear butt not the 3rd gear
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From: Dybvad, DENMARK
And powerslave
Too be sure off what im talking abaut look in the assembly manuale page 06 pic. 17 and then tell me howmany screws you can see on the pic.
these are the ones i adjust the clutch
I hope you can understand me becuase all you in here are the only ones too help me
Too be sure off what im talking abaut look in the assembly manuale page 06 pic. 17 and then tell me howmany screws you can see on the pic.
these are the ones i adjust the clutch
I hope you can understand me becuase all you in here are the only ones too help me
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From: canberra, AUSTRALIA
sorry dude,
you are rite about the example in the manual i think that is something that CEN should look at but there are 4 screw in the cluch the ones that need to be ajusted are the ones that are angled 1 is silver and one is black how long have you had the car ?? is it fully run in and tuned properly ?? last i found that i had to turn mine out more like 8 1/2 turns to get it to cut in, I also went a xtra 1/2 turn on second gear dont know if that did anything ??
anyways i hope this can be of some help to you micheal
you are rite about the example in the manual i think that is something that CEN should look at but there are 4 screw in the cluch the ones that need to be ajusted are the ones that are angled 1 is silver and one is black how long have you had the car ?? is it fully run in and tuned properly ?? last i found that i had to turn mine out more like 8 1/2 turns to get it to cut in, I also went a xtra 1/2 turn on second gear dont know if that did anything ??
anyways i hope this can be of some help to you micheal


