Bought my MT2 a few weeks ago and oh how much fun but I do have a problem! I have ran about 15 tanks through it now but I have a problem which I though might solve itself after running a few tanks! When is it stood still with the engine running then I go to accelerate it kind of seems to stall, well it sounds like stall then a few seconds later the engine starts to rev up and off it goes and drives fine, but the initial pick up has a delay on it! My TR4 with the same engine which I bought a few weeks ago as well is fine, it goes straight away when I accelerate! I have not touched the engines on either of my cars yet they are currently set to the original factory settings as they came out of the box!

CEN can you suggest why might be wrong or is this normal for the MT2?

I know that this forum is supposed to be answered by CEN only, but I know the answer. You need to lean the fuel mixture. You do this by turning the screw on the side of the carb clockwise. Factory settings have this screw set to flush with the surface, but this is really rich pruposely for break in procedures. Turn this only 1/8th of a turn at a time. The manual gives more detailed info. Look for low speed settings under the break in section.

Cool! I will take a look at it tonight! Strange though how my TR4 works fine without tuning! I will have to lean them both out a bit and get them up to proper racing speed.

sschuler,

Thanks! That sounds about right!

CEN RACING

When this is set right (have not had chance to do it yet!) should it be able to pull wheelies from a stand still?

no it won't ... Unless you hold the front end up.... too much weight in front of engine, not enough behind.... If you change clutch to more grip it will pop a small wheelie but then you risk breaking diff cups and stripping gears.... Sorry to break it to you

theres a guy on the wildhobbies forum who stuck a .21 in a funfactor, and it wheelied all day - at the expensive of non modded diff cups, with the mod i expect driveshafts will be next to break as mine are quite well twisted (45 degrees one of them is at...) from a .18 cvr.

i am working on the truck conversion for for my rally the spring, i hope it doesnt wheelie... ah but then i have a secret weapon to stop it happening!

poor judgement.... If the guy is lucky he will only break diff cups... I was talking with cen racing a while back about more powerful engines... I'm either going to try epic 18 or the cen 18... I won't modify my nt-16 because I want a spare anyway... With the .18 it can pull a wheelie on grass but I still believe it runs the risk of alot of drivetain damage.... I tried a quicker clutch and it pulled a small wheelie then bent (snapped) the dogbone on the right wheel.... IMO not worth the damage to parts for the little bit of thrill.....
I use my electric rustler (modified) to pull them... Will run full length of parking lot (has wheelie bar) ... cool to watch.. hard to steer.

So the advice is then, if I want to break it put a bigger engine in, otherwise keep it standard and run some jumps to get air!

lol - yea pretty much, im expectin probs with this .18, so if ur happy with the motor etc, dont fix it if it aint broke! best of luck to yer!

Oh, this is good to hear. I'm getting ready to do the upgrade to the 18. That's all I need is MORE broken drivetrain parts. [:'(]

the only drivetrain part i break is diff cups. i HATE those diff cups. cen needs to start making srtonger diff cups.

kysi u know about the diff cup mod dont yer? run a search and u will suss it out. as for the .18, i have had a few probs with my rally, but i have been drivin it like a hooligan when ive had probs, smooth throttle control helps no end. the larger diameter wheels on the mt, i would imagine, would create a greater strain on the drivetrain. hi grip surfaces have resulted in the engine twisting the engine mount out of the chassis - get some nuts on the ends of the mount screws for the plate.

its only a case of reinforcing ur diff cups, and keeping an eye on the twisting of ur driveshafts. u will need to be a little more careful with the gear mesh - check it at 90, 180 and 270 degrees etc, and average it out if there is a variation.

dont panic peeps - a 21 will work in there, but the more power u put thru it - the more failures u are goin to get. it was only designed to take cens .16 remember.

dkf1979... from what I understand, The mod won't produce more low end power, just top end... Don't shy away from this upgrade... It is a good one.... Just make sure the diff cups are modified.... I want to keep my nt-16 stock for personal reasons and will be getting an epic .18 or the cen 3.0... My mt2 has every mod that I have seen and after last weekend showed, it is as durable as anything out there...
My son drive over an 8 foot dirt mound at almost top speed... don't know the height but landed almost upside down...(on rear and roof)... the only damage was to the shell( wanted a new one anyway) truck drove off... everyone thought it was killed.......

anyone know what the low end screw needs to be at , in broken in engine, a rough idea will do

thanks

start at around flush with the casing that surrounds it... usually a good place to be.....

What do you mean by flush?