Through 4 litres on my 3rd batch Genesis (latest 2005-version).
Engine dies suddenly on jumps (where I naturally release throttle trigger) and many times on bringing the truck to a stop by breaking.
Freinds on the track brought my attention to the clutch which maybe engages too soon/too easily.
Thinking back, I have had problems adjusting the idle sufficiently low without engine stalling and yet not too high so clutch engages.
Clucth bell is blue already (from heat i assume) - is this normal?
Is it possible to adjust clutch engagement?

Anybody experienced this with their Genny? - Any good piece of advise, please?
Thanks in advance.

it could be flooding out as u land the jumps - do the revs rise before it dies or does it just cut out?

sounds to me like the low speed needle could do with leaning out a touch... possibly...

Engine dies before landing. And it dies without reving. Very suddenly, no "hesitation".
The LSN is approx 3/4 turn out from flush (setting from factory), so I also thought leaning the LSN could solve the problems,
however engine running less smooth when leaning the LSN. (HSN is 4 1/2 turn out).

Hi SejR/C
You should lean your HSN to 3/1/2-4 turns out it much better. And maybe lean your LSN about 1/8 or something.
Yes it's normal that the clutch bell turns blue after break in or under break in.

Thanks for your advice.
I've been adjusting and adjusting today. As far as i can judge, my Genny is running best with HSN 3.5 turns out and LSN flush. Truck also idles fine now. But the beast still stalls in the air when jumping....
Do I hear you saying, it is not likely that it there is a problem with the clutch? That adjustment of needles is the solution.
Guess there is only one way then: Grab the screw driver again...[:'(]

just a thought sej - is ur motor nice and tight? i had a screw very slightly loose and it let my flywheel hit my brakes seat when i landed jumps. good luck finding the lil bugger...

Sejr/c,


Does your Genesis run well when not jumping ?


Regards

PJ:
Thanks for that tip - I better double check.
STC:
Yes, with the present settings as per my last, she is running fine (seen apart from the fact that i havnt hit 3rd yet, but I will cross that bridge when i get there).
Only problems on the jumps. And it is not just occasionally, it is every time I jump. Every time.

So try doing this,When the truck is in the air leave the throttle and see if
it keeps idle when it hits the ground...........just a guess

Yesterday, getting ready to re-adjust (again), I find that after a few pulls, the pull start is stuck. Piston seems stuck in the cylinder.
It turns out the bearing on the connection rod is completely smashed up.
Tiny copper "chips" are found all over behind the rear cover and in the cylinder. Not sure if the cylinder and piston have been damaged.
I will be visiting my LHS tomorrow.
Perhaps this is the cause of all my troubles. Maybe somewhere there has been an obliquity right from the beginning?

to be continued....

sorry to hear that, i was hoping it would be something a bit more straight forward.

I have had the same problem with my new NX 76 engine, the bal bearing and everything was completely smashed.
The dealer told me that this was not a common problem.

Here's a picture of the damage http://www.pinjelunden.dk/rc1.html
- turns out also the main crank bearing is defect.
Importer/LHS delivered completely new engine today, free of charge, so soon I'll be bashing again. (After another round break-in naturally).I was told it is the first time this has been seen in the Nordic Countries (Denmark/Norway/Sweden).

SejR/C,

Remeber to break-in your engine by driving the truck at slow speed
and not in a stand still.

Thanks STC, I will remember.
My break-in proceedure as recommended by my LHS (And as it was for the first engine):
2 ltr ie 9-10 tanks break-in-nitro (containing 18% oil in stead of 14) and driving the truck at low throttle (as you rightfully say).
Requires a lot of self control....

Engine mounted now - cant wait....[8D]

SejR/C,

Check your gear mash before starting the engine.

Thanks STC, gear mesh seems to be fine. not too loose, not too tight.
proud to say I also remembered the shims on the crankshaft so pinions fit nicely on the spurgears lengthwise.[8D]