I am new to Nitro R/C, also a Diesel Technician, but never have had such frustration. Bought an used ATX Fun Factor, rebuilt the engine using the instructions on the manual and tried to enjoy it, but I am just loosing my patience. It is hard to start, when it does it run a full tank and will not run after unless I keep the glow plug igniter for a small time. If I set the Low-speed mixture screw flush with the throtle arm as the manual states, the engine idle is just to high. I do not know what to do. Will someone please help me. If this goes on I will just run it over with an 18 wheeler and be done with it.[:@]

Thanks

If you just rebuilt the motor and reset the carburetor to the factory settings, it might do that but you have to break it in again. Both of mine new would not run when I removed the glow ignitor for the entire breakin. After 4 tanks or so you can start leaning it out and it will run a lot better. I just rebuilt the motor in my ATX and went through the same thing. It gets better with every tank you run. Mine really started coming alive after 10 tanks or so.

Broke it in with 5 tank fulls, but it is so frustrating what settings did you use? I really appreciate your help.

If you set the HSN and LSN back to the defaults (3 1/2 turn out for the HSN and the LSN should be out flush with the throttle arm). Warm the motor up and start leaning the HSN our (turn clockwise) 1/8 a turn at a time. Each time, take it for a high speed run and see how it runs. I think mine is leaned out about 1 1/4 turns from there. Just watch the temperature and make sure it does not get too hot. I have read where you should run it at 1/2 a tank of gas while fine tuning to help with the motor leaning out on it's own as the fuel level drops. I pushed mine up to about 250-260 when it ran out of fuel. As you adjust the HSN you will feel the power coming in with each turn. Once that is done, adjust the LSN. This will help with the takeoff. Also, once you get another 4 or 5 tanks through it, the motor will start to perform even better. I have my MT2 pretty close. The ATX still needs a little tweaking but it's getting there.

[X(]I will follow your advise to the letter. Thank you, will let you know how it turns out.[8D]

You should also have a 1mm gap in the carb slide for the idle with the throttle closed.
Make sure the sevo is not holding the idle open you might have to adjust the linkage to make sure the throttle is closed all of the way leaving only the 1mm gap.

The CEN engine manual can be downloaded here, http://cenracing.com/download.html
it will have the factory needle settings and breakin and fine tuning procedures.



rolland

Flywheel keeps comming off loose. I use thread lock, is there a special method o lock it in place?

No special method, just thread lock an tighten it up real good.

After breaking the engine, had to take it apart, the piston seized against sleeve. Last time this happened it broke the piston rod, what could be cousing this? [sm=confused.gif]

I would have to say not enough oil (running to lean), or dirt in the fuel.
Did you reset the needles back to factory specs?


rolland

Guess it is gona happen when cutting corners. I cant keep the low speed needle flush with the throtle arm, the engine just cuts of, have it only about two tuns out from the inside, is that an ok position?

Juan

Mine would not idle with the lsn flush either. The only way i could get mine to idle was to set about 1.5 turns in from flush and it has wroked great since then.

if it helps - my nt16 setup AFTER breaking it in:

low speed needle is set at 2.5 - 2.75 complete turns out from fully screwed in, at that position the screw head is flush with the throttle arm too.

high speed needle is set at 2.75 complete turns out from fully screwed in.

this motor and tune setup lasted me a very long time, must be 10 or 12 gallons or so over a couple of years. remember each engine is different, but that should be somewhere near ur correct tune too... well, it should be at least.

(be very careful when screwing the needles fully in - stop as soon as u feel resistance or u will damage the needle)

hope that helps

On an NT16 theme, has anyone tried running the NT16 on 25%? I am about to break in my 'winter' engine and thought it might as well run on the same stuff as the Savage and GS. Also it may help keep the temps up in the cold? Any thoughts?

ive only run my nt16 on 16% so far as i remember. i have read that most engines seem to like an extra head shim if 30% fuel is going thru it, so it might be an idea to have one just to be on the safe side. but to be honest, with the right plug (maybe an os#8?), i would just fill her up and give it a run.

for what its worth, i ran the os18 on both the 16% and 25% fuels (no re break in in between) without changing any shims etc, and it ran fine with a fair bit more poke on the 25%.

while we are on with the nt16 - anyone know offhand where in the uk i can get a piston and sleeve? the 16 or 18 kit, i dont mind which.

Couldn't find one for love nor money mate! Ended up getting mine from the States. Took about ten days but I waited two months for Irvine to repeatedly tell me 'this item is currently unavailable'. Worrying really, what is going to happen in a few years when I need another one?

What about using CEN's engine swap program. It woul probably cost the same as ordering the parts from Ehobbies. Maybe they can send it as a warranty replacement to save on some of the fees.

25% should be fine for the NT 16 it really doesn't have allot of compresion when new so it should be ok.



rolland

doh - what am i thinking? i should just grab another os18 for winter use - from the States, of course... will have to speak nice to santa.

mad that irvine dont stock these parts tho.

I know, Ripmax may get better at stocking spares but at the moment they are only carrying very basic stuff, mainly for the Genesis. I was thinking about gettin a Peak motor to see what they are like. Decent power claims (probably well overblown), decent price and great distributor (Helger Racing). I am going to do a few searches to see if I can dig up any unbiased info.

Ran a few tanks of 25% through the NT16 this afternoon and it performs great. I think the temperatures might be a bit higher but I'm not too worried as it will be an advantage with the weather turning colder. Could have been wishfull thinking but I could have sworn the acceleration had improved and I had to adjust the gear change timing! Not sure if that was in any way connected though!

I once tried to up my nitro to 15% from 10% (in the NT16) and it just didnt want to know! It just would not idle for anything, yup I tried everything and in the end went back to the 10% and it was right as rain....wierd...[&:]
But after putting the OS 18 in, I would go back for quids.

EDIT: FYI I run 20% in both my Sav and the MT2 (since engine swap)

I ran a few tanks of 30% when i ran out of the 10% stuff i normaly used in my cen while i was away and its was great... used to scream its head off[8D]

I'm well happy. It means I only have to buy one fuel for all the cars.
Sorry rolland, just noticed your post about the engine swap program. It only applies to U.S residents mate. Shame really cos I really fancy giving the NX3.0 a try.

I've upgraded my NT-16 with the 18 size piston, sleeve, and connecting rod, but now after braking in the engine it is very difficult to get it started, I have to return the pull starter by the flywheel. What can I do?

Thanks

When I removed the cylinder head the compression is gone and the piston moves very nicely, do I need futher brake in time, or should I just change the piston/sleeve set?

Juan