i am thinking of possible upgading my engine for my cen mt2 could someone please tell me an engine that would give me more power than the stock mt2 engine, but still for what you think is a reasonable price.

thanks

I have been looking at this motor: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGGP7&P=ML

I think it is a direct drop in with no modifications. There is an (S) version that has a longer shaft, but I think this is the one you want. I am sure someone knows for sure which one you want. I am thinking about buying one for my MT2 (working my way up to a .28). Also, there is a .18 upgrade you can do to the stock NT-16 motor. That info is here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2520395/tm.htm

I just did this upgrade on my son's ATX and it is a noticeable difference. But probably not as powerful as the OS .18 CV-RX. Hope this helps.

thanks this will help a lot.......i will do this very soon

That is the OS engine that you want. You will have to shorten the exhaust header bolts a little bit to fit but other than that a straight forward drop in.
Be warned however this motor can seriously limit the life span of cv's, dogbones, and diffs. If you do not want to replace these parts on a somewhat regular basis you should go with the .18 conversion that alvinl linked to. It has increased power but isn't quite as damaging to parts.



rolland

As a few of us on here have done this mod...be rest assured that the OS 18 cvrx is a great motor!!!

can't say enough about the os .18 engine swap... as rolland said, just shorted the exhaust bolts.... huge difference in power and speed.... I'm not having any more broken parts since the initial swap.. What I have done is paid alot of attention to the suspension travel and play as well as drive train slop... No more broken dog bones and cvd's... I DO NOT have the diff cup mod... not needed IMO.... the only problem I have is the diff gears and yoke keep shredding... The engine power has to go somewhere... I have been running pro-line holeshots on the track and the truck is unbeatable...

cenracer1, XTM trucks have a similar problem. They way it is fixed is by using machine thread screws as long as possible on the gear that screws onto the diff with a couple of drops of CA used as lock tight. Here is a link to a pic explaning what I am trying to say.
http://racernine.com/images/difffix-longscrews.pdf

When I shim my diffs I also shim the side gears in the diff. This might help also.


rolland

rolland thanks... but what diff is that... sure doesn't look like the one in my truck... what breaks is the yoke and gears... the three small gears inside the diffs... the yoke arms break apart and that shatters the gears and occasionally the diff housing if I'm giong fast enough...

That is an XTM diff. I didn't think I explained what I was trying to say well enough so I linked to a picture to show what I was talking about. The way you explained it, it sounded like you were having problems with the 43t gear and the 13t pinion. What that mod does is to limit the 43t gear from moving around on the diff.

Have you tried the machined cross shaft? http://www.ehobbies.com/rc-cen-ffs027.html
I used to break them all of the time untill I upgraded to the ffs027 part. I also shimmed the side gears in the diff a little tight but not binding to limit the excess slop in the three little gears. Then I shimmed the diff to pinion clearance again a little tight but not binding.


rolland