Hey Guys,

I'm new to nitro, I just bought a FF-ATX (first nitro) and HOLEY-MOLEY I'm impressed with the performance. I have only run 1 gallon of nitro.

My FF is bone stock for the moment but I just bought:





...and since you guys say the chassis flexes too much




I want to convert my ATX to a MT2. Is everything the same except the front shock tower, tires & the gear ratios? From the pics I looked at on this site I have the .88 axles...is this right? CEN's website confused me. I dont know if I have .66 axles or .88. I need to order new ones anyway because I had a head on collision at full throttle with my friends Tamiya RC-10. I broke one axle and two diff. cups. I will also be doing the duff cup mod you guys recommend! (The RC-10 was almost destroyed)

Here are my questions!

1) Can I get more power? My stock engine was tuned at a local hobby shop. Its running at 230C. I have not touched the settings since. Can I do more tweaking if I buy a temp gun to get the front wheels off the ground? I had to adjust 2nd gear on my ATX because it would take forever to engage with the stock setting. Should I run 40% nitro or stay with the 20%?

2) To do the .18 engine upgrade you guys are talking about do I need to buy a new engine or just a piston and sleeve? Do I need to do any drive train mods to handle the extra power?

3) I want to play with the gearing a little. The stock gearing is too tall for me. I want more low end drifting power and a 2nd gear that does not take the length of a football field to wind out in! Can I just start swapping spurr gears or do I need to use specific size pinion gears? Can someone recommend me a good gearing setup? Also, did I read correctly that I can upgrade to steel Genisis spurrs? Is there anything I should know before ordering a bunch?

Tnkx for the help guys. This site is SWEET!

My future mods will include 14MM wheel hex upgrades, T-Maxx axles, T-Maxx shocks and maybe try the T-Maxx clutch springs. I'm going to try and make an aluminum front diff. case too on my CNC mill as I broke one of the mounts for the upper contol arm. Is there a mod for this to save me the work?

Everyone I know is TOTALLY impressed with the bone stock ATX!!! (minus the pathetic diff. cups and axles)

The broken pic is the factory brake upgrade!

As for the engine upgrade you can buy the .18 piston and sleeve but you may also need the .18 cooling head as well. I didnt know this and just got the .18 piston, sleeve, and connecting roda nd the engine had practiacally no compression. I have heard some people say that they got away with just putting in the piston and sleeve but it sure didnt work for me. A better choice is the OS 18 CV-RX. I just put one in my MT2 and it has a TON more power. I havent broken any drive train parts yet due to too much power. (after I did the diff cup mod). I wasn't able to get my front wheels off the ground at all with the stock engine and wheels but after the OS .18 and some masher 2000s it wheelies nicely.
Also you may want to think about the aluminum brake seat, it makes a huge different. You may notice with the stock one that the rear of the chassis flex's a bit (although the roll bar helps). After the metal brake disc and aluminum brake seat, i have to be careful not to fully apply the brakes because they will completely lock up and make the MT2 do an endover. It can do some sweet stoppies now though Also do a search for azzman's fuel tank mod. He made a nice step by step with measurements to replace the puny 75cc tank with a 125cc ofna tank. Sorry I can't tell you anything about the spurs/pinions. I just left mine stock.
Good luck. These FF series RC's are wicked nice for the price.

stock gearing for the mt2 is 11/14 pinions and 47/44 spurs. genesis pinions require the optional 2 speed alloy hubs to work, along with steel pinions.

Firstly, welcome to the forum. Ottawa eh? Gotta love them Senators at the moment.
Anyway, the axles you have are the 88s. The other ones are shorter and for the buggy and rally models. The fuel you run is fine, you could go up to 25% but I would be wary of 30%. You may need to start messing about with head shims to get the right compression. Personally I would leave the NT16 in there for the minute, it is a surprisingly good and reliable little motor. Remember it is still running in for the first few gallons anyway. There are no aluminum diff cases for the CEN at the moment, if you do decide to cnc some, there will be a few members here who would be interested in getting some aswell. As for your gearing, PoorJudgement is the man to speak to there. He has experimented with pretty much every gearing option there is and then made some of his own up aswell! You could always adjust the changing point to get into 2nd earlier. Good luck with you truck, they are great little things that are more than capable of giving high price opposition a nasty shock on the track.

Tnkx for the info guys!

I will get the aluminum brake seat next round of parts!

Unfortunatly my bone stock NT-16 chewed itself apart today so no more fun for the next while!

Tnkx for the great info! Please read my post regarding my broken engine!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_37...tm.htm#3766980

Welcome and hear are some answers,

1) With a pipe change you can gain some power but not enough to pull wheelies. Stay with 20% fuel. In order to run 30% and higher you will need to shim the head and the power gain won't be that much.

2) The .18 conversion uses the same block. I didn't have to use the .18 head but some have. You won't have to do any drive train mods for this other than the diff cup mod.

3) The 11/14 MT2 clutch bell is the lowest you can get. You do not want to run the 11/14 clutch bell on the Genisis spurs or you will need allot of clutch bells.

rolland

Great info guys...tnkx a lot!