Bulletproofing FunFactor
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From: _,
AB, CANADA
CEN forum doesn't seem really busy at the moment, being winter in the northern hemisphere and all. So I thought I'd give all y'all something to think about or reply to.
My goal for spring is to have my MT2 BULLETPROOF. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips for me that I may have missed.
Here's what i've done so far.
Aluminum break seat, steel vented brake disc, CEN aluminum shocks, titanium front turnbuckles, Laid down 645-mg steering servo, ofna 125cc tank, OS .18CV-RX, Stainless screws, CEN upgraded diff parts, Custom top plate that goes back to the brake seat, Custon built(very ugly but strong) roll cage, venom failsafe, 5 cell hump pack.
I also sealed my servos and my reciever/batt box.
I have the necessary parts on the way to do: the swift shaft/hub mod, genesis spurs and CEN steel pinions, and some ARO shock towers. Still need to buy rims and rubbers.
What else can I do to this thing to make a good basher? I broke all my shafts and dogbones so I have to wait for parts anyways.

My goal for spring is to have my MT2 BULLETPROOF. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or tips for me that I may have missed.
Here's what i've done so far.
Aluminum break seat, steel vented brake disc, CEN aluminum shocks, titanium front turnbuckles, Laid down 645-mg steering servo, ofna 125cc tank, OS .18CV-RX, Stainless screws, CEN upgraded diff parts, Custom top plate that goes back to the brake seat, Custon built(very ugly but strong) roll cage, venom failsafe, 5 cell hump pack.
I also sealed my servos and my reciever/batt box.
I have the necessary parts on the way to do: the swift shaft/hub mod, genesis spurs and CEN steel pinions, and some ARO shock towers. Still need to buy rims and rubbers.
What else can I do to this thing to make a good basher? I broke all my shafts and dogbones so I have to wait for parts anyways.
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From: Birch Hills,
SK, CANADA
you could look at the [link=http://www.rc-solutions.com]rc solutions[/link] roll cage for the mt2, mite improve the look of the truck since you said your cage was ugly
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From: _,
AB, CANADA
Well, they finally changed their site to include the funfactor. 70 USD though.. tempting bu t i may wait a few months. My home meade one cost me about 7$ CDN lol.
I'm kinda thinking that the A arms and dif cases will be the weak link now. I know if I put New Era arms on i will end up breaking lots of diff cases. I broke one with stock Arms already
Has anyone treid anything to strengthen the Arms or Diff cases?
I'm kinda thinking that the A arms and dif cases will be the weak link now. I know if I put New Era arms on i will end up breaking lots of diff cases. I broke one with stock Arms already

Has anyone treid anything to strengthen the Arms or Diff cases?
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
just remember its best to have flexy parts here and there, such as the arms, they allow flex and save damage further down the line. u cant make the whole truck completely solid - well, not really... better to have a couple of $5 bits break, than the whole chassis and diff cases etc taking the strain, imo
sounds like u are about there tho - the shafts, cups and chassis flex are the main issues, spur gears, if u are running uprated engines and/or running in sandy/stoney areas, are worth uprating too imo. so it looks like ur pretty much covered - theres tons of pics of mine about, and that has taken a couple of very hard 50mph-ish smashes with no real damage bar a broken jt shock tower and cosmetic stuff.
just keep an eye out for a jt racing chassis - they are brilliant... and oh so rare now it seems...
sounds like u are about there tho - the shafts, cups and chassis flex are the main issues, spur gears, if u are running uprated engines and/or running in sandy/stoney areas, are worth uprating too imo. so it looks like ur pretty much covered - theres tons of pics of mine about, and that has taken a couple of very hard 50mph-ish smashes with no real damage bar a broken jt shock tower and cosmetic stuff.
just keep an eye out for a jt racing chassis - they are brilliant... and oh so rare now it seems...
#5
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
I kept snapping antenna noodles off in the radio box so I bought a New Era antenna. I also bought a New Era front bumper/skid plate!
As for the stupid diff cases...I have broke 3 already. Cracked off the little nub that sticks out with the two holes in it. One hole mounts the control arm and the other holds nothing...I gonna try filling that hole with epoxy to try and give a little extra strength. My origional idea was to make some out of aluminum on a CNC machine...but I have no CNC machine. Just software!
I can draw the diff cases in AutoCad or AutoDesk-Inventor if someone can convert these files to run on their machine!?!?!
I have also bought "steering metal parts"
I decided to leave the red plastic spur gears. I had a malfunction once and all that happened was a spur got stripped. 4 bucks for a new one is better than a diff rebuild or snapped dog bone!
ummm...oh yeah...I put my servos, radio gear and venom smart temp/failsafe all in clear baloons because I like to run in deep snow.
OH..and the stock 10x15x4 bearings in the diffs seem to pooch out fairly fast...so I bought some double sheilded/sealed ones off ebay! 10 for about 20 bucks!
As for the stupid diff cases...I have broke 3 already. Cracked off the little nub that sticks out with the two holes in it. One hole mounts the control arm and the other holds nothing...I gonna try filling that hole with epoxy to try and give a little extra strength. My origional idea was to make some out of aluminum on a CNC machine...but I have no CNC machine. Just software!
I can draw the diff cases in AutoCad or AutoDesk-Inventor if someone can convert these files to run on their machine!?!?!
I have also bought "steering metal parts"
I decided to leave the red plastic spur gears. I had a malfunction once and all that happened was a spur got stripped. 4 bucks for a new one is better than a diff rebuild or snapped dog bone!
ummm...oh yeah...I put my servos, radio gear and venom smart temp/failsafe all in clear baloons because I like to run in deep snow.
OH..and the stock 10x15x4 bearings in the diffs seem to pooch out fairly fast...so I bought some double sheilded/sealed ones off ebay! 10 for about 20 bucks!
#6
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From: _,
AB, CANADA
yeah, I'm planning on keeping the sotck arms, but i was thinking baout making some kind of diff case brace accross the wo that the arms pull on eachother not just on the plastic case. I've already replaced the bearings.
Boot, Idk if you still have the pieces for your diff cases bit I borke a few like that and use a ton of crazy glue or plastic epoxy to put it abck together and it holds just fine. Just so you dont have to buy diff case halves all the time. Aluminum diff cases would look sweet and perfor well as long as you kept plastic arms. With metal arms and metal diff cases you would probabaly bend the chassis. I've got the alum steering link on order too, I hear it helps tighten up the steering.
How do you like that new era skid plate? I was thinking about it but never did buy it.
I've been looking for a JT chassis for a while. Wish I would a bought one when i first got this thing but 130$ US seemed steep. But with this extended upper chassis plate it should be strong enough.
Boot, Idk if you still have the pieces for your diff cases bit I borke a few like that and use a ton of crazy glue or plastic epoxy to put it abck together and it holds just fine. Just so you dont have to buy diff case halves all the time. Aluminum diff cases would look sweet and perfor well as long as you kept plastic arms. With metal arms and metal diff cases you would probabaly bend the chassis. I've got the alum steering link on order too, I hear it helps tighten up the steering.
How do you like that new era skid plate? I was thinking about it but never did buy it.
I've been looking for a JT chassis for a while. Wish I would a bought one when i first got this thing but 130$ US seemed steep. But with this extended upper chassis plate it should be strong enough.
#7
You should PM DrHonda and talk to him about CNC'ing some parts from your drawings. I am sure a couple other people (like me
) would jump in and buy a set. I like the idea of an aluminum diff case.
) would jump in and buy a set. I like the idea of an aluminum diff case.
ORIGINAL: BootMachine
I kept snapping antenna noodles off in the radio box so I bought a New Era antenna. I also bought a New Era front bumper/skid plate!
As for the stupid diff cases...I have broke 3 already. Cracked off the little nub that sticks out with the two holes in it. One hole mounts the control arm and the other holds nothing...I gonna try filling that hole with epoxy to try and give a little extra strength. My origional idea was to make some out of aluminum on a CNC machine...but I have no CNC machine. Just software!
I can draw the diff cases in AutoCad or AutoDesk-Inventor if someone can convert these files to run on their machine!?!?!
I have also bought "steering metal parts"
I decided to leave the red plastic spur gears. I had a malfunction once and all that happened was a spur got stripped. 4 bucks for a new one is better than a diff rebuild or snapped dog bone!
ummm...oh yeah...I put my servos, radio gear and venom smart temp/failsafe all in clear baloons because I like to run in deep snow.
OH..and the stock 10x15x4 bearings in the diffs seem to pooch out fairly fast...so I bought some double sheilded/sealed ones off ebay! 10 for about 20 bucks!
I kept snapping antenna noodles off in the radio box so I bought a New Era antenna. I also bought a New Era front bumper/skid plate!
As for the stupid diff cases...I have broke 3 already. Cracked off the little nub that sticks out with the two holes in it. One hole mounts the control arm and the other holds nothing...I gonna try filling that hole with epoxy to try and give a little extra strength. My origional idea was to make some out of aluminum on a CNC machine...but I have no CNC machine. Just software!
I can draw the diff cases in AutoCad or AutoDesk-Inventor if someone can convert these files to run on their machine!?!?!
I have also bought "steering metal parts"
I decided to leave the red plastic spur gears. I had a malfunction once and all that happened was a spur got stripped. 4 bucks for a new one is better than a diff rebuild or snapped dog bone!
ummm...oh yeah...I put my servos, radio gear and venom smart temp/failsafe all in clear baloons because I like to run in deep snow.
OH..and the stock 10x15x4 bearings in the diffs seem to pooch out fairly fast...so I bought some double sheilded/sealed ones off ebay! 10 for about 20 bucks!
#8
Senior Member
Instead of the JT chassis how about the Magnums chassis? It uses the same diff cases, throttle servo location, and engine mounting and it is bound to be a whole lot cheaper that the JT chassis. Even if it isn't that much cheaper it is atleast available.
rolland
rolland
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
dustin7837 - I have been using plastic epoxy and JB weld on the diff cases but it keeps snapping. I will try more...Loads more. I will tell you how the skid plate is when I get it. I ordered it a week ago!
Dr Honda - I dont have anything drawn yet but I suppose I could sit down and draw the diff cases sometime soon. Those would be totally sweet!!! SO strong... What file types can you deal with best? I think Inventor is "*.ipt" which would be easiest for me.
Let me know!
Dr Honda - I dont have anything drawn yet but I suppose I could sit down and draw the diff cases sometime soon. Those would be totally sweet!!! SO strong... What file types can you deal with best? I think Inventor is "*.ipt" which would be easiest for me.
Let me know!
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From: Jefferson,
MD
Dustin,
You can fing that cage on ebay for $40. There is always 1 or 2 from the same seller on there. Starting bid is 30, buy it now for 40. Dont remember the shipping cost though
Tiny
You can fing that cage on ebay for $40. There is always 1 or 2 from the same seller on there. Starting bid is 30, buy it now for 40. Dont remember the shipping cost though
Tiny
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
if this turns out to be a do-able exercise, could u mod the casing to have 3 screw hole for the tie bars to screw to? just adding one in the centre of the existing 2 would be great if poss?
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: poor judgement
if this turns out to be a do-able exercise, could u mod the casing to have 3 screw hole for the tie bars to screw to? just adding one in the centre of the existing 2 would be great if poss?
if this turns out to be a do-able exercise, could u mod the casing to have 3 screw hole for the tie bars to screw to? just adding one in the centre of the existing 2 would be great if poss?
I can draw it just about any way you want it!
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
on the rear diff there are front and rear mounting points for the track arms rod ends to screw to. im using the rear side of the diff on mine, due to the tuned pipe size in front, but have had to make a 3rd (flimsyish) hole for the suspension to work right.
heres a pic of the back of mine, and i marked where i think that is on ur pic so far. it would be an idea to do this on both the front and back of the rear diff casing, purely for my own selfish reasons!
maybe make up the 2 bosses into one larger one with 3 holes in?
ps - i know its leaning a bit - i hadnt yet set the preload when i took the pics.
heres a pic of the back of mine, and i marked where i think that is on ur pic so far. it would be an idea to do this on both the front and back of the rear diff casing, purely for my own selfish reasons!
maybe make up the 2 bosses into one larger one with 3 holes in?
ps - i know its leaning a bit - i hadnt yet set the preload when i took the pics.
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From: Latrobe,
PA
Looks good. Can I assume that the case halves are symmetric?? So there is really only one part, and you just need two of them to make the complete housing?
I’ll check my software if I can work with those file types. I know that solidwoks files are the easiest for me to convert to machine code. But, what other file types can Inventor save, or export as?
***EDIT... Yes, it looks as if I can work with the Inventor files. e-mail me a sample file to make sure.
I’ll check my software if I can work with those file types. I know that solidwoks files are the easiest for me to convert to machine code. But, what other file types can Inventor save, or export as?
***EDIT... Yes, it looks as if I can work with the Inventor files. e-mail me a sample file to make sure.
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From: Ottawa, ON, CANADA
The halves are not comnpletly symmetrical. There are male and female rings for alignment. You will see what I get it drawn.
I will send you an Inventor file for you to check Dr. Honda.
I can make the screw hole mod but the bottom hole must stay in its origional position.
Think about any other mods you guys want and post them before I finish the drawing. I want to get this done in as few drawings as possible since there is a butt load of measuring to do. AND...since I dont have a CMM, this working properly lies on my ability to use a micrometer and caliper.
If anyone has a CMM or 3D scanner let me know...Maybe there is an easier way!
I'm gone on a trip for a week so when I get back I will check in on this post.
P.S. New Era skid plate looks GOOD! Really think aluminum. Thicker than the chassis.
The antenna looks a little crappy though. Not as flexable as I had thought. I think its going to snap off on my first roll!
LA
I will send you an Inventor file for you to check Dr. Honda.
I can make the screw hole mod but the bottom hole must stay in its origional position.
Think about any other mods you guys want and post them before I finish the drawing. I want to get this done in as few drawings as possible since there is a butt load of measuring to do. AND...since I dont have a CMM, this working properly lies on my ability to use a micrometer and caliper.
If anyone has a CMM or 3D scanner let me know...Maybe there is an easier way!
I'm gone on a trip for a week so when I get back I will check in on this post.
P.S. New Era skid plate looks GOOD! Really think aluminum. Thicker than the chassis.
The antenna looks a little crappy though. Not as flexable as I had thought. I think its going to snap off on my first roll!
LA
#21
Hell, if nothing else I will buy a new part and ship it to you.... I just don't have the skills to measure it and create the model like you guys do.
#22
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From: _,
AB, CANADA
I've got a spare at home that just has one of the arms broken off on one side and I crazy glued it back on. I won't be home to get it until next weekend (25-26). But I could ship that out to you instead of someone having to buy one.
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From: Latrobe,
PA
dustin7837...
Well... since I haven't received any drawings... Why don't you send the case to me, and I'll see what I can do with it.
I'll PM my address to you.
poor judgement...
Yes... I will add a third hole
Well... since I haven't received any drawings... Why don't you send the case to me, and I'll see what I can do with it.
I'll PM my address to you.
poor judgement...
Yes... I will add a third hole
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From: _,
AB, CANADA
Situation is under control. My diff is rdy to be mailed to the good doc tomorrow. It's a pretty complicated piece to measure out so i hope that Dr honda will be able to make these cases
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From: _,
AB, CANADA
Hey I was just thinking, Should we have Dr honda seal that hole on the bottom of the diff cases if possible? I know it sits against the chassis anyway, but if it was sealed we could use oil to lube the diff instead of grease. It would work like a real truck diff where oil sits in the bottom half of the case and is pulle upowards by the gears spinning.
Good idea or no?
Good idea or no?


