Matrix upper arm problems
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Rossville,
GA
I had the same problem once you got to put more of the bolt in on the inside of the car and but a little lock tight on the bolt and this should help you.
Dennis
Cen racing,TQ fuel
Dennis
Cen racing,TQ fuel
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: City of Industry,
CA
ORIGINAL: nedMX
just ripped the thread out of my 3rd upper arm on my matrix rtr. im not punishing it even remotely close to what i put my savage through so im wondering if theres a known porblem of this.
just ripped the thread out of my 3rd upper arm on my matrix rtr. im not punishing it even remotely close to what i put my savage through so im wondering if theres a known porblem of this.
This is not a common problem so I am curious to see what is going on.
CEN Racing - Customer Service
#5
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Sweetwater, TN
No, just thread the rod more into the arm than the rod end. I havent had the problem since I started doing that. And like the above post said,maybe put a little loc tite on there. Doing this should solve your problem. If you have anyother questions, let me know.
Best regards,
Corey Johnson.
Best regards,
Corey Johnson.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Central,
MO
I have had this issue as well but after checking a few things out I think I figured out what my issue was.
I had one of the bolts back out on the hinge pin brackets and this allowed my lower A-arms to move back and forth ever so slightly. Over time I noticed the rear of the upper A-arm was showing signs of mushrooming at the rear of the arm. I did a couple different things to correct the issue with my Trix.
1) Replaced the stock hinge pins with Mugen MBX5 Prospec hinge pins. These are threaded pins with a nylon lock nut. This allows you to put the desired amount of tension on the hinge pin plates to keep the lower A-arm from flexing.
2) The tie rod is inserted into the upper A-arm and turnbuckle the same distance. This allows you to have more of the rod end in each piece when making your adjustments and in turn not create a weak link on either side of the upper A-arm assembly.
3) I dont run any less than a 2 degree camber on the front end. This is about 1.2-2 threads difference from 0 camber. This also allows more thread contact inside of the turnbuckle and upper A-arm.
4) Make sure when you install your new upper A-arms that you get the tie rod threaded as square as possible on the first try. If you arent square with your tie rod it removes a little more material from the end of the upper A-arm the deeper you thread it in, due to it trying to square itself up.
Hope this helps.
I had one of the bolts back out on the hinge pin brackets and this allowed my lower A-arms to move back and forth ever so slightly. Over time I noticed the rear of the upper A-arm was showing signs of mushrooming at the rear of the arm. I did a couple different things to correct the issue with my Trix.
1) Replaced the stock hinge pins with Mugen MBX5 Prospec hinge pins. These are threaded pins with a nylon lock nut. This allows you to put the desired amount of tension on the hinge pin plates to keep the lower A-arm from flexing.
2) The tie rod is inserted into the upper A-arm and turnbuckle the same distance. This allows you to have more of the rod end in each piece when making your adjustments and in turn not create a weak link on either side of the upper A-arm assembly.
3) I dont run any less than a 2 degree camber on the front end. This is about 1.2-2 threads difference from 0 camber. This also allows more thread contact inside of the turnbuckle and upper A-arm.
4) Make sure when you install your new upper A-arms that you get the tie rod threaded as square as possible on the first try. If you arent square with your tie rod it removes a little more material from the end of the upper A-arm the deeper you thread it in, due to it trying to square itself up.
Hope this helps.
#8
So you guys know, locktite + plastic dont mix. I think the lock tite actually attacks and weakens plastic parts (since it says do not use on nylon type nutts right on the box.)
Seeing as that our upper arm is made out of nylon and ohter plastics, it isnt recomended. What is recomended is replacing that part if it becomes damaged. Landing the buggy on the front end with all the weight on one tire can and will cause this failure.
Gabe Boudreau
CEN Racing R&D, Online Customer Service Guru
Seeing as that our upper arm is made out of nylon and ohter plastics, it isnt recomended. What is recomended is replacing that part if it becomes damaged. Landing the buggy on the front end with all the weight on one tire can and will cause this failure.
Gabe Boudreau
CEN Racing R&D, Online Customer Service Guru



