looking for help with rtr engine. break in 20perctent nitro 30 prcent ? glow plug replacements air filter hop up. those types of tgings.
ICC

freeic,

We recommend heat cycling the engine for break in by idling the apx 4-5 tanks. In between tanks we recommend allowing the engine to cool down to room temperature. Also, just after running each tank make sure that the piston is at BDC, Bottom Dead Center. In other words, at the bottom of the sleeve.

After 4-5 tanks at idle with the above process, you can begin driving the vehicle and tuning it.

This is my method, I personally agree with the person who wrote this or you can stick with what cen said

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power

What about .26 CEN motor its all nice and spice to OS and I am os ... But to a newbie with the cen engine and RTR Matrix what then same, Aaaeee

I heat cycled mine for 6 tanks, and after that it was all hell.

for the 26 just idel the engine for 3-4 tanks and slow raise rpms and tuning as you go through 5-9 tanks and then you will be for sure ready to go "WIDE OPEN"

I 'm just about there then, I let it have the bit for a few seconds through each tank but still rich will lean some more. The bottom takes a lot to get it going will lean it to.

Did you guys read the second post on this thread regarding the dangers of drawn out run-in?

I'll be putting my new engine, (completely ported and flowed ), together this weekend and trying this method.

Sure will beat a day pissing off the neighbours!