Problem keeping my MG10 running
08-12-2007 | 05:42 PM
#1
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From: Atlanta,
GA
Problem keeping my MG10 running
I have 3 MGs the MG10MT, MG10TR, and MG16
Im having a strange problem with the TR that has been going on since I got it new. It will run fine for about 5 minutes and once it gets up to operating temp, 220 or so, it will shut off and not restart until it cools. It seems that the fuel line stays solid with fuel until this condition starts and then its all air in the line. If I blow through the pressure fitting to bring fuel to the carb, it instantly drains back into the tank.
I dont have this problem if the engine is cold.
Any ideas?
Im having a strange problem with the TR that has been going on since I got it new. It will run fine for about 5 minutes and once it gets up to operating temp, 220 or so, it will shut off and not restart until it cools. It seems that the fuel line stays solid with fuel until this condition starts and then its all air in the line. If I blow through the pressure fitting to bring fuel to the carb, it instantly drains back into the tank.
I dont have this problem if the engine is cold.
Any ideas?
08-12-2007 | 08:33 PM
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From: Clermont, FL
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
it would seem to me that the base of the carb is getting to hot. Does the fuel boil in the carb after running it for a bit? I have seen this a few times before.
08-12-2007 | 11:57 PM
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From: City of Industry,
CA
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
If you haven't already- consider cutting a hole in your driverside windshield for optimal air-flow that will be concentrated towards the engine... running 30% fuel will also run cooler...
notch found that the best carb settings were 2- 2.5 turns out on the top and 1-1.5mm out from flush on the bottom.
Otherwise go to your local hobby shop and ask the local fast guy whats the best plug for your climate.
notch found that the best carb settings were 2- 2.5 turns out on the top and 1-1.5mm out from flush on the bottom.
Otherwise go to your local hobby shop and ask the local fast guy whats the best plug for your climate.
08-13-2007 | 07:10 AM
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From: Atlanta,
GA
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
Thanks for your responses.
The truck comes from the factory with the hole cut. regardless, Ive been running it without the body in an attempt to "tune" this problem out. I would say that, yes, the fuel does boil from time to time but its not every time. Why is the base of the carb overheating? Im running it fairly conservative on the HSN, its only 220 or so when it happens. What is a remedy? Richen it more? Im running a medium plug, a MCcoy ms9.
The truck comes from the factory with the hole cut. regardless, Ive been running it without the body in an attempt to "tune" this problem out. I would say that, yes, the fuel does boil from time to time but its not every time. Why is the base of the carb overheating? Im running it fairly conservative on the HSN, its only 220 or so when it happens. What is a remedy? Richen it more? Im running a medium plug, a MCcoy ms9.
08-13-2007 | 09:41 PM
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From: Atlanta,
GA
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
Help Please, CEN support, is the base of the carb overheating a design flaw? this isnt the first mg series Ive heard of having this exact problem but Ive yet to find an answer. Ive done everything I can think of but because of this little issue, it now sits on the shelf.
08-14-2007 | 08:51 PM
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From: , TX
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
I used to have those motor problems when I first started, I would take a guess and that the problem is either:
1. There is an air leak somewhere.
2. Maybe the low end needle setting (if it has one) is set too lean.
Just keep in mind, a hot engine is one that has too much air and not enough fuel in the mixture entering the engine. So check anything the might increase air (air leaks) or decrease fuel (dirty fuel, pinched air hose, weak backpressure coming from the tuned pipe).
My MG10TR truck had a pin hole in the fuel line, pipe stinger partially pinched closed and the clutch shoes were dragging to cause the excess heat in my engine. Another rare but probable cause has been the crankshaft internally rubbing against something that the manufacturing operation missed beneath the carb.
Now my new MG16 engine is running hot and I will have to go thru the same troubleshooting again.
1. There is an air leak somewhere.
2. Maybe the low end needle setting (if it has one) is set too lean.
Just keep in mind, a hot engine is one that has too much air and not enough fuel in the mixture entering the engine. So check anything the might increase air (air leaks) or decrease fuel (dirty fuel, pinched air hose, weak backpressure coming from the tuned pipe).
My MG10TR truck had a pin hole in the fuel line, pipe stinger partially pinched closed and the clutch shoes were dragging to cause the excess heat in my engine. Another rare but probable cause has been the crankshaft internally rubbing against something that the manufacturing operation missed beneath the carb.
Now my new MG16 engine is running hot and I will have to go thru the same troubleshooting again.
09-09-2007 | 10:09 PM
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From: Albuquerque,
NM
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
ORIGINAL: digout
I used to have those motor problems when I first started, I would take a guess and that the problem is either:
1. There is an air leak somewhere.
2. Maybe the low end needle setting (if it has one) is set too lean.
Just keep in mind, a hot engine is one that has too much air and not enough fuel in the mixture entering the engine. So check anything the might increase air (air leaks) or decrease fuel (dirty fuel, pinched air hose, weak backpressure coming from the tuned pipe).
My MG10TR truck had a pin hole in the fuel line, pipe stinger partially pinched closed and the clutch shoes were dragging to cause the excess heat in my engine. Another rare but probable cause has been the crankshaft internally rubbing against something that the manufacturing operation missed beneath the carb.
Now my new MG16 engine is running hot and I will have to go thru the same troubleshooting again.
I used to have those motor problems when I first started, I would take a guess and that the problem is either:
1. There is an air leak somewhere.
2. Maybe the low end needle setting (if it has one) is set too lean.
Just keep in mind, a hot engine is one that has too much air and not enough fuel in the mixture entering the engine. So check anything the might increase air (air leaks) or decrease fuel (dirty fuel, pinched air hose, weak backpressure coming from the tuned pipe).
My MG10TR truck had a pin hole in the fuel line, pipe stinger partially pinched closed and the clutch shoes were dragging to cause the excess heat in my engine. Another rare but probable cause has been the crankshaft internally rubbing against something that the manufacturing operation missed beneath the carb.
Now my new MG16 engine is running hot and I will have to go thru the same troubleshooting again.
09-09-2007 | 10:33 PM
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From: grand rapids,
MI
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
I had the same issues with my MG16. I found the LSN too rich. IT caused the engine to load up and die very quickly. Once it died it would boil the fuel back-hydrolocking it.
Just put a tiny bit of fuel on the carb base and it will cool it enough to reprime and start.
Once started I ran back up to temps and used the pinch test on the LSN settings to find the right tune. I found my LSN to be in 1.5 turns in from flush. Idles longer now and does not hydrolock. Yes my temps are fine for those leary.
Just put a tiny bit of fuel on the carb base and it will cool it enough to reprime and start.
Once started I ran back up to temps and used the pinch test on the LSN settings to find the right tune. I found my LSN to be in 1.5 turns in from flush. Idles longer now and does not hydrolock. Yes my temps are fine for those leary.
09-09-2007 | 10:38 PM
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From: grand rapids,
MI
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
Gasser how close is your fuel line to the pipe? You can loosen the HSN and turn the nipple away from the pipe so much. Again check your LSN with the pinch test.
Pipe wise i am working on that my self. I may try a Sportwerks Chaos pipe or CRT .5 pipe. My issue is making a header to fit the pipe. I was going to do a side pipe but the distance between the wheels is so short. My concern is on an upstroke of the front tire, that it will hit the pipe. I would prefer a rear pipe behind the shock tower. I am looking at a Macs header on Towers and try bending it to fit for a rear set up.
Pipe wise i am working on that my self. I may try a Sportwerks Chaos pipe or CRT .5 pipe. My issue is making a header to fit the pipe. I was going to do a side pipe but the distance between the wheels is so short. My concern is on an upstroke of the front tire, that it will hit the pipe. I would prefer a rear pipe behind the shock tower. I am looking at a Macs header on Towers and try bending it to fit for a rear set up.
09-13-2007 | 10:07 PM
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From: Albuquerque,
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RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
ORIGINAL: muck76
Gasser how close is your fuel line to the pipe? You can loosen the HSN and turn the nipple away from the pipe so much. Again check your LSN with the pinch test.
Pipe wise i am working on that my self. I may try a Sportwerks Chaos pipe or CRT .5 pipe. My issue is making a header to fit the pipe. I was going to do a side pipe but the distance between the wheels is so short. My concern is on an upstroke of the front tire, that it will hit the pipe. I would prefer a rear pipe behind the shock tower. I am looking at a Macs header on Towers and try bending it to fit for a rear set up.
Gasser how close is your fuel line to the pipe? You can loosen the HSN and turn the nipple away from the pipe so much. Again check your LSN with the pinch test.
Pipe wise i am working on that my self. I may try a Sportwerks Chaos pipe or CRT .5 pipe. My issue is making a header to fit the pipe. I was going to do a side pipe but the distance between the wheels is so short. My concern is on an upstroke of the front tire, that it will hit the pipe. I would prefer a rear pipe behind the shock tower. I am looking at a Macs header on Towers and try bending it to fit for a rear set up.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HPIG0870&P=K
09-14-2007 | 09:31 AM
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From: grand rapids,
MI
RE: Problem keeping my MG10 running
from the pic, it looks to be close to the same size. Look on ebay and see if you can fine some one with the pipe or a nitro with it on and see if they will measure it.
I thought the Nitro Pede one would have worked better but some one tried it and performance was not much better, it did not leak though.
I was thinking maybe a nitro pede MIP header with a 90 degree coupler with a CRT .5 pipe would make it work in the rear.... we'll see.
I thought the Nitro Pede one would have worked better but some one tried it and performance was not much better, it did not leak though.
I was thinking maybe a nitro pede MIP header with a 90 degree coupler with a CRT .5 pipe would make it work in the rear.... we'll see.
