doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Yea,

that was my thought too but there already is a 1/2" block on the top and bottom. In reality the planform of the fuse forward of the wing would have to change - an overall taller fuse would take care of it. I'm curious to see what you come up with Jeff.

Jeff, for the hatch/canopy, have you thought of making a wood or foam canopy and split it at the hatch line so that you can keep the hatch on top and leave the bottom for retract logistics? I decided to move the canopy forward on Kaos 30 plans I've drawn up and did just that. There will be no retracts in mine but I wanted top access anyway (at least for an electric version). Here's the idea.

David.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I don't plan on altering the design other than canopy placement. I like the idea of attaching the canopy to the tank hatch either as one piece or two (haven't decided).

As for the nose wheel, I'm working on trying to convert a standard Hobbico mechanical nose gear to rotate so the wheel sits flat.

somiss1

My Feedback: (5)

Jeff, unless you plan to use a pipe, a 12 oz tank is plenty! And, the SunFli doesn't need a pipe! The original SunFli didn't have retracts, to my knowledge. Try a 12 oz tank and I think you will be pleased. Plus the 12oz gives you more room for the retract if you decide to use them. I must admit that I used a pipe on my Super Kaos and it was a rocket. Too much power is quite adicting, though! However the tail of the Super Kaos almost came off in a split "S" and made a believer out of me.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Somiss,
The Kraft 16oz slim tank is only 2.12" inches tall. I'm needing about .5" to have the nose wheel fully retracted, that would mean I would have to use a tank that is ~ 1.5" tall. I don't think there is a suitable tank out there that meets that dimension.

I'll start with the standard HP muffler, but may add a pipe later.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

You can always find a bottle at the grocery store or where ever that would meet your dimensions. You are not bound by what the hobby suppliers provide. I use Nalgene bottles in my gassers and have seen some using water bottles from the gas station. The screw on cap is a better design than the stopper anyway in my opinion. Maybe this will help you.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Jeff, I do that all the time with their hard tanks. You need a buck to press the tank against for the shape you need as it cools. Just heat the tank until the plastic starts to turn clear in the area you want to remold.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I decided to stop thinking and just start building... [&:]

I made a tank floor from 1/16" ply for the Hayes 16oz tank with plenty of room for foam padding on all sides. The nose gear retract mounting plate is cut from 1/4" ply and epoxied in place. I've run the steering nyrod and made an access hole for the retract pushrod in the second former. The 1/2" balsa bottom nose block and 1/2" tri-stock are glued in place as well. I've roughly cut out the clearance areas needed for the retract.
As you can see in the photo's the nose wheel will sit below the fuse slightly, but I'm OK with how its turned out.
I've got the nose blocks glued in place, but not shaped.

I will retain the top front hatch for fuel tank access and will most likely mount the front of the canopy to the hatch like edh13 showed in post #10.

somiss1

My Feedback: (5)

Jeff,
You probably won't see that little bit of wheel in flight. Lookin' good!
Frank

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Even if you could see the wheel, I still think it looks great!

Brian

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I did some shaping of the nose blocks and glued on the nose ring, but I ran into a small snag in the plan...
Agian I didn't plan ahead when selecting the HP Gold Cup. The engine is about 3/8" or more longer than I have room for without significant modifications to the engine mount. I have a couple other options though. I have a New OS Max 60 FGR with the factory 704 muffler (a NIB one just sold for $68 on ebay!!!), and a New Enya 7033 III with an Enya muffler. The Enya is the older model with twin rings and the holes in the exhaust flange for a baffle. Neither the OS or the Enya have ever been ran, I think it's time.

Which engine would produce more power? The OS 60 FGR or the Enya 60 III?

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Go with the Enya. If for no other reason than it is not an OS.

Brian

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

But that's a GOOD OS... Back when they made them to last.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I'll apologise ahead of time for the poor quality photos...

Show below are:
Current state of the main gear retracts - In process of mounting the retract servo - then I'll start on the ailerons.

The fuse is pretty much complete. I've completed the nose wheel retract mounting, engine mounting and fuel tank hatch. I hollowed the top block for extra clearance of the Hayes 16oz tank.

Fuselage is shapped and sanded. I've decided to mount the canopy in the stock location [&o] for simplicity.

I've settled on the OS MAX 60 FGR for power. *** Side note: My LHS is carrying PowerMaster fuel again, so I picked up a gallon of 5/22.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

No photos to upload today, but I have been slowly working on finishing framing up this Sun Fli V. My workshop space has become extreamly limited since I've move in with my soon to be wife.

The fuse is still as you see it in the above photo with the engine mounting and nose retract mounting completed. It's ready for servo installation.

The wing is 90% completed. The retracts are fitted and finalized and the servo mounts have been made. Just need to add cap strips and wingtips. Right now I'm working on the ailerons. The stock material included in the box left little to be desired for 30" long strip ailerons. The material is soft and has large blade marks in the surface. I can see how aileron flutter was inevitable in years past with torque rods and soft balsa strip ailerons.

I was planning on glassing the ailerons for stiffness, but decided to experiment with laminating some .010" G10 material to each side. I must say, the ailerons are straight and extreamly stiff with only a minor weight penalty (if any at all versus traditional glassing). .005" might have been better in regards to weight, but I only ordered the .010" material. As for finishing, I'll coat the exposed balsa with some finishing resin prior to paint.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Jeff-

I really like your Sun Fli!!!! The retracts are sweet.

Congrats on the "soon to be wife!" All the best.

Great idea with the G10 in the ailerons.

Brian

(added 4-27-2011):

How are you planning to retract the nose gear? Are you going to use a 2nd servo, or using the single center servo?

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Hey Brian.

I'm using a single servo to actuate all three retracts. I spent a few nights head-scratching over that one, but I finally figured it out after bending up about 8 different wires.

I split the wing tip blocks and laminated some G10 in the middle. I was going to attach the wing tip blocks last night and I discovered something that I found interesting. At first I thought my aileron stock was too short, but it turns out that there is an intentional 1 1/2 gap between the aileron root and the side of the fuse. Not sure what to think of it at the moment.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Jeff,

nice progress!

I came across the same scenario with the ailerons/TE short of the wing center on another old sport/classic (the Hammer) - except it was on the plan. In those days they liked to leave their torque rods exposed on the wing center TE. I re-designed the Hammer to be a little more "contemporary" and changed the profile of the wing TE and tips.

In your case you could just continue your TE to the fuse side or, simply use the space for some fillets - not sure if either one would break with the authenticity of the design.

David.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Jeff,

I have been studying the Mach One plans for the single servo install. I think I have it figured out, but if you wouldn't mind, I would love to see yor install. I am interrested in the way the wire will get routed from the servo all the way to your nose retract unit.

Thanks!

Brian

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I'll shoot some photos of my retract install tonight.

The trouble I ran into was that in placing my retract servo in-line with the stock location of the landing gear is that my servo wheel was above the surface of the wing sheeting. If you look at the Mach 1 plans, the servo wheel is below the surface. This is ideal since the nose gear pushrod should exit the wing near the leading edge. The Mach 1 drawing also shows the nose gear pushrod attached to the bottom side of the wheel. This was an obsticle for me as well. The servo has protrusions in the case that were catching the pushrod.

I'm sure there are numerous ways to skin this cat, but I ended up with a lot of 90 deg bends and all three of my pushrods on top of the servo wheel. It looks funky, but I've tested it and it seems robust.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I'm liking it already. Looking forward to seeing the rest...

Thanks for the pictures! Very helpful and reassuring.

Brian

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Jeff,

I applaud your single servo retract job. I couldn't bring myself to do it - after 3 wire bends I would give up.

BTW, have you seen the Sullivan spring loaded ball links? They are supposed to be pretty good for this kind of thing.

MK also has a gadget for a three wheel single servo setup. It transfers the nose gear pushrod into the bottom of the wing so that it can exit from the LE or lower if needed in a mid-wing design.

David.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

The Sun FLi looks great. I have mine on hold right now as I have a bunch of other projects that jumped ahead of it. I was unhappy with my wing. I did not get the cores cut properly and I was unable to straighten them out. So, I have to start over on my wing. At this point my Sun Fli will be too far from stock to even be called a Sun Fli. I am kicking the wingspan up to 72" so it will have a much higher aspect ratio.
I do have a great set of retracts to install though, and again, I am making mine a taildragger. I just recieved a vacuum pump, so I look forward to using that on the new wing.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Making progress on the Sun Fli 5.

The wing tips are carved and sanded to shape. ( the blocks were split, a .010" strip of G10 added to add a center line and add some dent resistance)

The tail feathers are done and mounted. - A very simple build. The stab and elevator are 3/8" sticks and the Fin is 3 pcs of 1/4". The rear of the Fin and Rudder are pre-shapped.

The plans call for the Fin to be butt-glued to the top of the stab with tri-stock reinforcement at the base. I thought I'd add some rigidity by adding 2 3/16" dowels to the base of the Fin. It's so strong now that I don't think I'll add the tri-stock to the base. It kind of spoils the looks.

The bottom of the fuse is still open until the pushrods (Dave Brown Fiberglass) are installed.

The next step will be to add the filler to the bottom of the wing at the leading edge where it meets the fuse. Then I'll mount the engine, aileron and retract servo, retracts, fuel tank etc, to get an idea of how it's going to balance to see where I should mount the Rudd / Elev servos and Rx battery pack.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Single servo trike gear retracts - wire bending. Keep in mind, a lower profile Retract servo or thicker wing would have made things ALOT easier. My servo wheel is at the same height as the top sheeting.

These are for Brian:

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I'm really liking how this Sun Fli 5 is taking shape. I don't feel the OS Max .60 HGR is going to do it justice. I was going through my box of engines and it just so happens my NIB YS .60 has the same mounting pattern and case length as the OS (with a slightly wider case). I just ordered a Jett muffler for it.