Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
#51
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
ORIGINAL: AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken
Single servo trike gear retracts - wire bending. Keep in mind, a lower profile Retract servo or thicker wing would have made things ALOT easier. My servo wheel is at the same height as the top sheeting.
These are for Brian:
Single servo trike gear retracts - wire bending. Keep in mind, a lower profile Retract servo or thicker wing would have made things ALOT easier. My servo wheel is at the same height as the top sheeting.
These are for Brian:
#55
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
2-56 rod. The nose wheel pushrod "may" get upgraded to 4-40 strickly because it sticks out the leading edge of the wing about 6" when removed and I'm a little worried about it getting bent from handling.
Fuel proofed the engine bay and fuel tank compartment with Deep Red KlassKote epoxy paint. The retract / wheel wells will get some white sealant tonight.
Fuel proofed the engine bay and fuel tank compartment with Deep Red KlassKote epoxy paint. The retract / wheel wells will get some white sealant tonight.
#56
RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
One other thing you can do with the nose gear pushrods in a one servo retract setup is to make it 2 pieces with a threaded coupler.
Don’t know if it would work in your install but might be something to consider. I favor that setup for that same reason you stated.
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
Jeff,
I hear what you're saying.
Have you ever tried the MK moon shaped linkages for the mains? The allow you to just thread a nut on the top of the horn and they are designed to clear the arm as they rotate. This leaves the top of the horn free so you can have a straight shot into the ball link for the nose which rotates 180 from front to back without interfering with the mains which ride underneath the horn.
There is also a gadget that allow you to "drop" the linkage through the wing so that you don't require a Z-bend to arrive at the height of the nose gear. I haven't tried using one though.
Here's a link to both items:
http://www.singahobby.com.sg/mkp04.html
David.
I hear what you're saying.
Have you ever tried the MK moon shaped linkages for the mains? The allow you to just thread a nut on the top of the horn and they are designed to clear the arm as they rotate. This leaves the top of the horn free so you can have a straight shot into the ball link for the nose which rotates 180 from front to back without interfering with the mains which ride underneath the horn.
There is also a gadget that allow you to "drop" the linkage through the wing so that you don't require a Z-bend to arrive at the height of the nose gear. I haven't tried using one though.
Here's a link to both items:
http://www.singahobby.com.sg/mkp04.html
David.
#62
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
Well here is where I am at with mine. Wings are bagged with 1mm poplar skins. Worked great. Very sharp trailing edge. I kicked the span up to 72". The wing area is the same, the aspect ratio just increased some. Rossi .67 for power with pipe. I will install Robart air up, spring down retracts. This will be all stock except for the minor changes in the wing and the fact that it is foam and will have conventional gear.
#63
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
Radio installation.
Mounted two Hitec HS-5245MG Metal Geared Digital Minis (76oz/in 1.12oz) in the tail for Rudder and Elevator. I added 3/32 plywood doublers for strength.
The nose wheel steering gets a Hitec HS-82MG (Metal gear 47oz/in .66oz) servo and throttle gets an HS-81 Micro. I'll install control horns and make pushrods tonight. I'll need to make a hatch on the bottom of the fuse behind the wing for battery access. After that, it's covering time.
Mounted two Hitec HS-5245MG Metal Geared Digital Minis (76oz/in 1.12oz) in the tail for Rudder and Elevator. I added 3/32 plywood doublers for strength.
The nose wheel steering gets a Hitec HS-82MG (Metal gear 47oz/in .66oz) servo and throttle gets an HS-81 Micro. I'll install control horns and make pushrods tonight. I'll need to make a hatch on the bottom of the fuse behind the wing for battery access. After that, it's covering time.
#64
RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
ORIGINAL: doxilia
Jeff,
I hear what you're saying.
Have you ever tried the MK moon shaped linkages for the mains? The allow you to just thread a nut on the top of the horn and they are designed to clear the arm as they rotate. This leaves the top of the horn free so you can have a straight shot into the ball link for the nose which rotates 180 from front to back without interfering with the mains which ride underneath the horn.
There is also a gadget that allow you to ''drop'' the linkage through the wing so that you don't require a Z-bend to arrive at the height of the nose gear. I haven't tried using one though.
Here's a link to both items:
http://www.singahobby.com.sg/mkp04.html
David.
Jeff,
I hear what you're saying.
Have you ever tried the MK moon shaped linkages for the mains? The allow you to just thread a nut on the top of the horn and they are designed to clear the arm as they rotate. This leaves the top of the horn free so you can have a straight shot into the ball link for the nose which rotates 180 from front to back without interfering with the mains which ride underneath the horn.
There is also a gadget that allow you to ''drop'' the linkage through the wing so that you don't require a Z-bend to arrive at the height of the nose gear. I haven't tried using one though.
Here's a link to both items:
http://www.singahobby.com.sg/mkp04.html
David.
I want to cut my own moon shaped retract linkages but no way will my big band saw cut something that small. Someone should design this idea on cad and we could all get some.
#66
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
ORIGINAL: AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken
2-56 rod. The nose wheel pushrod ''may'' get upgraded to 4-40 strickly because it sticks out the leading edge of the wing about 6'' when removed and I'm a little worried about it getting bent from handling.
2-56 rod. The nose wheel pushrod ''may'' get upgraded to 4-40 strickly because it sticks out the leading edge of the wing about 6'' when removed and I'm a little worried about it getting bent from handling.
#67
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
ORIGINAL: AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken
Can't decide on the color scheme... I do know it's going to be Dark Red, White and Charcoal Monokote. Help! 1 2 3 or 4?
*Edit* Option 5 is start over...
Can't decide on the color scheme... I do know it's going to be Dark Red, White and Charcoal Monokote. Help! 1 2 3 or 4?
*Edit* Option 5 is start over...
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RE: Bridi Sun Fli 5 Build Thread
ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace
Well here is where I am at with mine. Wings are bagged with 1mm poplar skins. Worked great. Very sharp trailing edge. I kicked the span up to 72''. The wing area is the same, the aspect ratio just increased some. Rossi .67 for power with pipe. I will install Robart air up, spring down retracts. This will be all stock except for the minor changes in the wing and the fact that it is foam and will have conventional gear.
Well here is where I am at with mine. Wings are bagged with 1mm poplar skins. Worked great. Very sharp trailing edge. I kicked the span up to 72''. The wing area is the same, the aspect ratio just increased some. Rossi .67 for power with pipe. I will install Robart air up, spring down retracts. This will be all stock except for the minor changes in the wing and the fact that it is foam and will have conventional gear.