I'll gladly second THAT comment......

David

It is interesting...

When I said butcher up the canopy, I actually meant cut around the set-up I have. This looks to be exactly the same thing Joe did on his XLT in the pic below. But... I am glad to get the comments I have. To raise the front of the canopy to clear the header seams to actually add character.

Happy to see these pics.

Brian

Brian,

don't forget - you need to make a hole! Two reasons 1) you don't want to pass the header at the exhaust level into the fuse. Why? Because the tank is there (at least with an un-pumped engine), and 2) because you need to cool the exhaust system. And even if you are going to redirect the exhaust back into the fuse to have it exit the bottom, keep in mind that the exit of the pipe must be ~3 times larger than the inlet for proper airflow. For all intensive purposes, the rear of the canopy is an open end. If you somehow rig things to use a small prop and short exhaust length in order to leave the canopy closed in the rear, you will have heat problems. Think of it as a pipe melting right through your paint work in a matter of a flight or two... On that note, you may want to consider using high temperature paint in the area under the canopy. The kind of stuff that's used for brake calipers and such.

There's nothing I'd consider "butchering" in making a U-shaped hole in the canopy to pass the header - that's how many have done it in the past. Provided your header doesn't enter the canopy from the top, I don't see anything ungraceful in this approach.

I think you'll be fine with the Rossi header - it will minimize the complexity of the FW and fuse top work since it has a more pronounced "Z" and will put the entry to the pipe at the proper height above the fuse top.

My single penny... So when does the build begin?

David.

This is the reassurance I was hoping for...

The butchering was the height the pipe would enter the canopy.... "Butchering" was a bad choice in words now that all has been said. But after seeing the XLT photo above, I don't think Joe Bridi would disapprove of this header choice either.

Honestly, I know that I need to open the rear of the canopy. I was going to approach it as I would a cowl. Even though I am going to direct the exhaust out the bottom, I still need to keep it cool in the canopy. The heat off the header could cause real issues if not cooled. Because I have never run a tuned pipe, I do not know how warm this gets, but I get the impression the pipe won't heat up like the header...

David-

Not sure that I understand the concern about the header entering the tank area. As I see it, the firewall stops below the header. There is a large balsa block glued on top of it. You simply carve and sand the space needed for the header You won't actually carve into the tank area. Am I missing something?

I think I hit on a winner with this header. I would like to fire the system up on a stand and hear it run and break it in a little before the end of the fly season. I am nervous about this process. The system won't be tuned at first, Hopefully it will be adjusted closely before I ever add fuel based on Mr. Dean Pappas's math. I want to use the right fuel and blend, prop, plug, etc... I'm half tempted to send it out to someone to break it in for me the right way with Dean Pappas's understanding.

I will not start another airplane until my Kaos is finished... I will not start another airplane until my Kaos is finished, I will not start another airplane until my Kaos is finished...
At least this is what I am desperately trying to convince myself. []

Honestly, I think it will be a year- 2012 build season. (Don't throw tomatoes at me, please!!!) Only because I want to try to approach R_G, 8178, doxilia, and so many other's mastery. I need a couple better tools, better lighting in my shop, and I need my gravity foam cutter constructed and understood. Even with a kit, I do not want to use the foam provided. I noticed that the cuts were not the same (within an 1/8" difference in TE's). This is significant to me. I think I want to use your templates to cut the wing and horizontal to be honest. But I want to make consistent cuts. Not just for myself, but I am finaly getting some interest in my area with these airplanes. I'd like to help my friends get classic airplanes they want to fly in the air. A lot of interest in the Curare's here.... That's cool too. [8D]

So I think I will take this time to wrap up my SK, my daughter's new trainer, and start to better plan EVERYTHING for the Escape. Pinpoint where the on-board equipment will go, What I need to do to successfully route the exhaust, I am even playing with the idea of making a mold to make a carbon fiber tub in the top of the fuse to go under the header and pipe. You wouldn't see it with the canopy on, but it would be impressive, and functional... I think.

I need to invest in a new transmitter. I am currently running a Futaba 9cap on 72mghz... I am very impressed with the new Airtronics 10G... Not sure if I need or want that much radio though. Not liking the reviews of the Airtronics new 6 channel option. Futaba is okay... It gets the job done but I'd rather use the Airtronics 10G honestly. No interest in JR or Spektrum. Hitec 9 is interesting...

I'm confused...?

Sorry... I give the dumbest long answers to simple questions. Just ask R_G! I obsess WAY TOO MUCH over this stuff.

Brian

Please finish the Super Kaos!

There are some good 2.4Ghz radio's on the market right now. I'm not a product loyalist as there are good product offerings from most manufacturers. I'm using the Hitec Aurora 9. (Sold my JR 9303)
I switched to the Hitec for a few reasons.
1) Feedback telemetry. I love the idea of the transmitter letting me know visually and audiably how my reciever battery is doing. ( I think Spectrum/JR has this feature now)
2) Reasonably priced receivers. JR/Spectrum 7ch rx is $90, Futaba 7ch is $90, Airtronics is $75 and the Hitec is $69. Plus the Hitecs are easy to find on sale for even less. I bought some for $49!
3) Programming. You can assign any switch or gimble to any channel. Easy breasy lemon squeezy.
4) Lipo capable transmitter. I stuffed a 2200mA lipo in the transmitter and hardly ever need to charge it.
5) Suplimental power control for the Receiver. You can have a dedicated battery just power the radio portion of the receiver. High current servos or a stalled servo wont drain the power from the radio!

I'm not too familiar with the features of the Airtronics 10G. I know everyone that has one loves it.

Well I was thinking about how the canopy would be cut. I pm'd doxilia about this to begin, but think it would actually be nice to get general input too.

I posted a few pics below to work on my header and canopy issue.

1. I would raise the canopy as already shown. This is a great idea.

2. I could cut down the front of the canopy to clear the entire header (for cooling) as shown in this great example of a XLT...

3. I could actually move the canopy forward some. I am thinking this is what was done in the last pic. Cooling may be an issue... I do not know.

Visuals can sometimes help. I am leaning towards option #2, actually preferring the 3rd option. Keep in mind, I have a LONG time before I have to decide on this. I had a lot of time to think about it today though...

Brian

(I like the Escape/Great Escape more every day. Hope it flys half as well as the UFO..)

Brian,
The canopy for my Escape needed to be set very far forward to clear the header curve, I also enlarged the front opening slightly for additional air entry and clearance; all in addition to raising the front half of the canopy as mentioned earlier. All un-noticable unless pointed out.

Go for it!
Jim

Brian,

replied to your PM. Hope it helps.

David.

I am pondering the idea of locating some proper aluminum tubing. If a person could locate the proper bending tools, they could purchase a couple Rossi headers to cut off the head mount and have a header, custom bent to fit your engine and the plans, tig welded at a radiator shop...

Where can one either find these tools, or what type of business to call to have the work done?

Macs will not cooperate in this. I already spoke to them earlier.

There is nothing wrong with the header I have, other than having to make special concessions for it with the canopy. I would like to get the right bend in the header. I have a lot of time to do this... Not in a big rush.

Brian

Brian,
The header shown on Sahak's site won't work?

http://shop.vendio.com/RossiEnginesU...826/index.html

Jim

It will work. I plan on using it if I don't find a way to get the header closer to the plans. I have some time to look and try a few things before I need it... so hoping against hope, I'd like to make something closer to the plans- if I can. (I obsess! Hate me or love me!!!)

If I can't.. no biggie. The Rossi header will be just fine.

It would be cool to find a way to get the intended header on it though... Ingenuity...

Now that I understand retracts a little better... My only concern from here on out is my lack of experience building pattern airplanes. The Super Kaos has been a great test bed and teaching tool for me- On what TO do, and what NOT TO DO... I am wondering if I should build another for more experience before I touch the Escape. In the meantime, I could simply collect more for the build... if not two of them using all the Cunningham mods on one of them.

Hense the name of my thread: SLOWLY setting up to build.....

I could build bits of it... piece by piece over time, rather than all at once, breaking it into smaller, more dedicated projects. (It is no Blue Angel, but still worth the effort.)

I do want to say thanks to Jetmech43, doxilia, R_G, Rainedave, 8178, AlltheGoodNamesAreTaken, and Jim Oliver, as well as so many others... but you guys have been INVALUABLE in motivating, teaching, and helping me. I hope I am starting to show some evidence of growth here. Without the help, I would probably be giving up in frustration.

I simply want to say thank you! (And thanks for your patients too!)

I was asked a while back if the Escape was going to replace my desire for a UFO. I want a UFO... I honestly have to say I am curious how they stack up against each other. The Escapes are growing on me more and more though...

Sorry. I am rambling.

Brian

UPDATE!!!!

Slowly setting up to build my Joe Bridi Escape...

I managed to work a trade for a new set of these retracts. I am liking this!

Building on a budget... OOOOOHH YEAH!!!

Brian

[link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLG430[/link]

Brian,

Looks like your building your fleet up for next year classic season in MN.

Scott

Definitely.

If I can't fly that great, at least I'll look good on the flight line!

Trying to give the folks up here an idea of what they're missing!

Brian

Brian,

just sent you a email.

#2

Got it... Back at ya'.

Brian

There is quite some pressure in the header while the engine runs at high rpm.
You will need the worm spring around the cylinder pulling ring and header onto the exhaust flange.

I guess ABC break-in has many possible variants, it may be a subject for endless discussion. I do use pure castor oil (around 22%) for first half hour of running a new ringless engine. Then I switch to synthetic oil.

Depending upon engine, you will notice a strongly feelable "pinch" when piston gets to top position in the liner (TDC). It makes big sense to me and helps very much for the initial firing up of a new engine to warm it slightly up by a powerful hairdryer. If the cylinder is still just touchable by your hand without burning your fingertips is enough. Also, avoid to crank the new engine over in cold condition.

Enjoy!

Thank you for that advice! I have a ring and spring from Rossi I'll be using.

Brian

(Mr. Jim Oliver has something new to show off at his CPA meets... Let's just say I am a tad jealous.)



edit... RCU is not posting pictures again. [&o]

Brian, good advice from speed-panzer on the ABC break-in. About the worst thing you can do with an ABC/AAC/ABN is to break them in too rich.

I tried to post pics of the new plane but RCU won't let me do it, anymore, that for some reason???

Jim (not Mr. Oliver!!)

Brian,

I just discovered this header from NovaRossi. No longer in production but they apparently have stock. The 40401:

http://www.novarossi.it/eng/products...otogallery=yes

It looks like its the perfect bend shape for the Escape. Whether it fits the ST, I don't know.

David.

Thanks for that David.

It looks like they do not offer any dimensions to the mouth of the exhaust... I'm thinking the width is different. But the bend looks interesting. I'll look more into it.

Brian

Contact Planet Hobbies for the NovaRossi parts. The owner is very helpful on the phone.

I think I like this set-up better...

Brian

Hey Brian,
How's the Kaos?

In the same state of consternation I left it in several months ago.

I had to go and turn a simple airplane into something WAY too stupidly complicated. I deserve my ***** kicked... I can hear Joe Bridi in the background mumbling, ".......moron."



It'll be covered and done by spring.

Brian