I was just watching the 1975 Bern Worlds and noticed that I am flying my loop at least 50% larger, and feel that the smaller loop looks better, and may be easier to accomplish. I am going to go to the field now to practice and adjust my elevator rates. My question for the pro's:

Do you adjust your elevator throw for a full pull through the loop, and adjust throttle as necessary, or vary elevator and throttle throughout the loop?

Blake sorry posted on the wrong post about the loop

Dan

I watched the 75 Worlds as well a while back, and certainly the impression is that they flew the maneuvers quite a bit tighter than you would think.  Hard to get all the perspective from the video, but I think it certainly looks likely.  I think what you want to do is recognize that in the age of 2 meter pattern and limitless power we are influenced to make the maneuvers far larger than really works for these planes.  I would work on sizing them so that your power and speed are constant.  When they get too big they lag over the top and I think that hurts their appearance, and makes the execution so much more difficult.  A wallowing plane requires tons more input to stay steady than one moving well under power.  I wouldn't necessarily decide to cut yours in half or aim at a certain size measured by feet, I would work to size them so that your plane has good power and tracks well all the way around the circumference, and you can use your throttle to maintain a constant speed.  Constant speed, in my opinion has the most influence on how precise and graceful a maneuver looks, not the amount of speed.  I think that is why 4 stroke powered planes seem to look smoother at times.  I don't think it's because they are slower, it's because their power curve allows for a more consistently paced maneuver.  For me, I wouldn't want an elevator rate that allows me to pull the stick all the way back.   I do that on my three rolls, I think that makes the pace consistent in almost any conditions, but I don't on my elevator for loops.  Logic would say that it would make them round and all the radius consistent, buy in my experience that doesn't translate to round, consistent loops.  Wind affects loops differently than it affects rolls, and being able to control your geometry on a loop in a windy situation doesn't work with just a constant input from the elevator.  <div>
</div><div>Mostly, just go work with them, in specific the sizing, to make them round, centered and constant.  Whatever size the maneuver needs to be to accomplish that, that's what you want.  As you stated, there is a high likelihood that the best size is smaller than what you would think.</div><div>
</div><div>LIndy</div>

Blake,

Email me direct and I will send you training aid.


[email protected]

Scott

Lindy,

Thank you for the tips. I went to the field and worked on adjusting my rates to the point that I realized that isn't the key. In fact, the good 'ol Kaos was just about history entering the running 8 [:@], not enough down!!! Anyhow, I dialed it back up. I will work more on the diameter, but what I really need to work out is keeping my heading locked in.

Scott,

Sent email! Thank you.

Blake...

Training item sent....

scott

Rates are not required, 100% on the servo movement and mechanically adjust the elevator movement for reliable spin and snap. That is all you need. How you can fly the pattern and remember to switch elevator, aileron, rudder rates for each segment I do not know. You will have enough to do just getting the thing in the right place and height for the next call. Any loop will need constant modulation of elevator and engine to maintain the shape, there will not be any 'rate setting' that allows a round loop. As you suggest, the hardest thing an aerobatics is to consitently 'fly the line'. That is the first thing to practise, any other pattern shape is just a 'wrinkle' on the line. The next thing to practise is constant height pull-outs. Leave the tricky stuff until the basics are down, they won't be so tricky after that...
Evan, WB #12.

Blake,

I thought you might be interested as there's another Flight Training Manual Volumn II on the auction site (search for thisNo.290616160210 there)that has most of the information for doing the pattern manuervers for Classic pattern.

This is my first patternplane and am finding this manual very instructive fortrimming my 40 sized Kaos. The very first chapter is based on totrimming your plane correctlybased on your planesflightcharacteristics so you canconcentrateflyingtopattern maneuvers.

Excellant addition to anyones library. Very much worth the money if you and get it.

Bryan

Bryan,

And also this Jim Kirkland's how to trimarticle is still valid today in many ways altough we have radios today that will help aid in trimming process little better:

http://www.trentonrcflyers.com/patte...im_article.pdf

/Bo

Thanks Bo,

Blake, Bo

I'm using Jim Kirkland's article, Vol II of the Flight Training manual, and Futabas 8uaf-8uas radio manuals Pattern Aircraft flight trimming chart on pages 24 and 25.

Chip Hyde (here on RCU somewhere I think)and Dean Pappas also have excellant articles on trimming for pattern flying.

The Jim Kirklandarticleand Dean Pappas article on the AMA website are quite indept on how to accomplish trimming your plane for the best flying characteristics.

Here's pages 24 and 25 of the Futaba 8u's version Titled Pattern Aircraft Flight Trimming Chart.
and
Bryan Hebert also has a very informative article on trimming Pattern Planes. See 2nd pdf

Bryan