If any of you old pattern fliers have a set of working Rhom Air retracts with sequence valve etc. I could sure use them for my BPA plane. Let me know... Thanks, Skip

There is a new set on eb*y. They usually go for about $125 to $150. The name is Rom-Air.

Please send me the link

One new set item 290089837474
Used parts item 270097036906 and item 270097037375

The bid is in. thanks, Skip. If I could spell it would have helped me!!

Something to think about..... Spring Air makes retracts that are almost identical in size, hole location,etc... as Rom-Air. The biggest difference is Spring Air uses a spring to let the gear down if there is pressure loss. I'm not knocking Rom-Air.... I have 2 sets in planes right now.... but the added insurance of knowing that my gear will come down every time makes flying more enjoyable. IF you do go for Rom-Airs, I would get a modern sequence valve from Robart since this was/is (in my book) the weak link of the Rom-Airs. Another thing to consider too is parts for the Rom-Air retracts, since they are no longer in business.

Just my 2 cents.

I have used both Rom Air and Spring Air retracts in the past. I have had little problems with either. I like the fact that you can transport the gear retracted with Rom Airs. ( makes for more room to stack two wings in the car).I guess it's a little nostalgic on my part but I like the Roms for my old pattern planes. Your point is well made regarding the sequence valve. If you set the system up properly and don't fly off of a really bumpy field there shouldn't be a problem. I rarely cycle the gear more than twice on any given flight so losing pressure isn't an issue.

Some thoughts on retract gear. My first retracts were CAS units and they worked fine but luckily the technology improved quickly. I’m sure you all remember them! For my first and second CAS installation used custom made 180 degree servos that I modified from some World Engines units. Then I used Sonic air cylinders on the second installation and them went back to servos and finally settled on air systems.

I have a Rom-Air tri-gear set in my Howard Engineering Kwik Fli III taper wing and tri-gear Spring Airs in my Tiporare and Blue Angel. Both the Rom-Air and Spring Air systems are excellent quality. I like the fact that the Rom-Airs can stay retracted for transportation and storage and I’ve never had problems with air leaks or extending problems. I made some wire clips to hold the Spring Airs retracted but it is an extra piece of stuff that you’ve got to keep track of. I prefer the steering arm solution used on the Spring Airs compared to the cable steering on the Rom-Airs. The Spring Airs lock the gear strut in the retracted position and the Rom-Airs are partly held in the retracted position by air pressure but I’ve never had problems keeping them retracted. I like the fact that you can reconfigure the air cylinders on the Rom Airs to face outward toward the wing tips. The Sonic system used the same type of air control valve as the Rom-Airs and I never had any problems with it.

In my opinion the Spring Air systems engineering is the best of the current systems that are available new. I guess other leading retract manufacturers think that too because they are making cheap knock-offs of the Spring Airs but they far from the same quality. The Spring Air service and support is absolutely fantastic.

At any rate isn’t it great that we all have aircraft that use retracts!

Wow! You let those get away for only $107.50!

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What I discovered over years of using Mr. Rhom's landing gear was that if you ignored their advice to pull off the pressure lines, not cut them off, you were doomed to leaks and blow-offs of the pressure lines. The first thing I look at when buying old Rom-Air landing gear is the brass nipples. If they are scored from an X-actio blade, I know I'm going to have to replace the nipples. Naturally, those with score marks are worth less to me than those without. Regardless of the temptation, DO NOT CUT THE PRESSURE LINES OFF THE NIPPLES.

If the Rom-Air system is set up correctly, the Spring-Airs have no real advantage over the Roms.

Were I buying a new set of retracts today, pneumatic, of course, I would buy the Spring-Airs. I've never used the Robarts, so they and other brands may be good too.


Ed Cregger

There is another set on there now, have only been fitted to a model which never flew. There is also a set of trike gear units only which have been used.

Hi Skip,

What pattern ship are you building now ? Hope to get over to ATL this summer!

Regards
John

Back when I was using Rom-Airs, there was a company that made little in-line restrictors. made the gear go up and down very smooth, taking about 3 seconds to retract.

I have a brand new, never installed set of Rom Air trikes with storage cylinder, valve, hoses, fill valve with couplers. Manual included.

I purchased these to use on my Wing A-26 Invader. I am definately impressed with the quality of machining and parts fit. If you've ever examined a set of D&B's, you'll immediately know what I'm taking about.

Anyhow, imagine my disappointment when I rotated the wire legs 90 degrees on the mains only to find out that the shock coils hit the cylinders, preventing the gear from locking in the full up position. The Invader has the mains in the nacelles and must rotate front to back, so moving the coils is essential.

Guess I have a brand new set of retracts that are unuseable in my intended bird.

Oh, I have other airframes I could mount these into but the A-26 is "next" on my list, lol... 5-32" wires all around.

Anyone out there with a set of Spring Airs, Robarts or similar wanting to trade? Once again, the mains must be able to cycle front to rear without the coils banging into the pressure cylinders.

Thanks!
PM

Take a look at this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2434444/tm.htm and note how the air cylinders are on the opposite end from the gear leg coil. I think I did that but it was over thirty years ago so I don’t remember exactly how I did it.

Ah...

Disassemble and reassemble placing the pressure cylinders on the outside. Hmmm. I hadn't considered that.

I'll take a harder look at this possibility this evening after work. Could it be that simple??

Thanks for the head's up on this one...might just save me a lotta trouble!

PM

Like I say, I made the change over 30 years ago so I’m not sure how I did it. I think I might have just removed the side frame and flipped over the aluminum part that holds the strut.

I have a set of new Rom Air retracts, complete with cylinders, valve, tank and even a manual punp. I purchased it in America's Hobby Center NY in 1982, for an Arrow project that was never build. Last year I got a new set of pressure tubing from Robart. I also got an OS 61 VF for the same project, which I never used either. If yor are still interested I can send you a picture.

Best regards.