Hey...I was wondering if any of you guys could help me identify the headers from the photos below...I really like the one you see on the std RF-P engine...The one on the Hanno I would like to avoid...If you look at the mounting flange you will notice a significant difference in thickness between them...I don't know if you can tell from the pics but there is a noticeable difference in overall quality as well...The one on the Hanno is crude compared to the one on the std RF-P...

I'd like to search for more of the good ones...If anyone knows of a source I'd appreciate it!! If not I'm thinking I'll contact that Karl Muller fellow...His headers "Look" Very Nice!!

Thanks for the Help!!

Chuck

Also...I was wondering if anyone recognized this prop on another fellows ship I found on the net...

If you recognize it..Do you know of a source??

Thanks...

Chuck

The one on the RF-P is a Hatori header. The one on the Hanno is a Mac's header. I have good and bad luck with the Mac's rear exhaust headers. I have had a couple crack where the pipe meets the flange due to using a soft mount or a very slight out of balance prop (vibration). I have fixed them with Alumaloy welding rods and never had a problem again. The Hatori header is more stout indeed..... but the weight is double of the Mac's header.

The Prop is a carbon Engle prop (I think Germany, or Czech Rep).

Thank You Very Much!!!

So...Singapore Hobbies on the Headers I suppose...(Didn't think they would be Hatori...I have some more Hatori headers for my YS Engines which don't really resemble those)....So Thanks for the Info!!

I found a couple of websites for the Engel Prop's...Thanks...Looks like they have a 12.5x11 which ought to fit the bill quite nicely for the Hanno...Huh?? I've seen guys saying they run 12x12 or 13x10's back in the day...The 12.5x11 is right in that PLF ballpark also...I'd like to give it a try anyhow...

These engines have been some impressive pieces of hardware so far on the Test Stand...(These are my first OS Engines..They are new to me...)

My YS's (which I'm partial too) still "seem" like they are the king of the hill though...Maybe my opinion will change when I get them in the Air??

What a Blast this has been so far!! Looking forward to flyin' them!!

Thanks sooo Much for the Help!!

Chuck

Someone named Johnson was producing headers and custom exhaust systems in the USA about the time that those engines were popular.

Ed Cregger

Yeah...Johnson...I remember that name too...Seems like I did a search for them a while back and came up dry...Thought they did pipes and Kewl Wrap around headers and stuff...I suppose they are gone??

Do you use an articulated header?? (P.S. "Articulated" is not my term..he he..I'm stealing it from somewhere else...lol...I'm not that smart...Hummm..Did I even spell it right?? ..Oh well...)

Both the Hanno's and RF-P's I got had the headers cut and a coupler installed to allow it to flex...I thought that was Slick...I'm going to do that on all my stuff from now on...Even though I got the Hanno's off eBay...The guy was local to me so I got to meet him to get the stuff(Wound up leaving with more than anticipated..he he)..

He is a Kewl Dude...He mentioned the "Articulated" was great with soft mounts...I can see that being the case...But...Then again...The cracked Macs Header pictured was in the pile-o-stuff I got from him...he he...So it may not really prevent the header from cracking...

I'll do the articulated thingy anyhow cause I think it's kewl...It's bound to cut down on vibration to the airframe a little anyhow...Plus...It's kinda nice to be able to scootch the pipe over a bit to keep it on the centerline with right thrust and all...

Maybe I'm the last in the world to know of this trick??? I AM pretty slow...But I saw it and liked it...

Have Fun...

Chuck

It's a common trick. My piped airplanes all have this feature, and it's really convenient. I don't think I would be able to get my hands under the wing to hook up the servos without a little play in the pipe.

P.S. You are not slow.

I have had them crack both ways (Articulated or not). The 2 major reasons I found for this "cracking" was:

1.On the fuse top style headers from Mac, the pipe is cut on a angle where it meets the header flange. The pipe itself would hang over the header flange at the bottom and would be filled in with "weld" to fill the gap. On mine the crack would start at the joint in one of the corners where the pipe over hanged the header flange and work its way around do to a lack of "weld" in these areas.

2. The header flange face was not flat (tweeked) where the flange would meet the exhaust port on the engine itself. When tightening the header screws.... it would stress the flange/weld and the slightest amount of vibration would cause the header to crack at the joint. Keep in mind too.... these were new headers bought and used "back in the day" So this doesn't mean that they have this problem today. I have not bought any in a long time due to having a stock of them.

Thank You guys...

Yeah..I think that is what I was noticing as "crude" workmanship...I personally think that is a good example of "How Not to" Fabricate a Header...A nice source for locked up stress...Just my opinion...


I have a TIG Welder with High Frequency capability...I love when I get the chance to dust it off and play around...It's just me and Aluminum don't seem to "Gee Haw" all that well together...Gimmie some .035 4130 and I'll have a Big Time!! But mean ole Mr. Aluminum doesn't like me..he he (I don't like him either...lol)

It doesn't help that my Miller EconoTig's minimum is 20Amps which is a bit too hot for .035 Aluminum...I just have to learn to "Pedal It"..(Kinda like John Force when he starts spinnin'..he he)...A buddy of mine also mentioned I should try Pre Heating and that may make my life easier...So I'll give that a shot too...

I'll probably monkey around with these...Just too see how big of a mess I can make...lol...I got 3 or 4 more headers that are trashed also..I have some 6061 tubing laying around...I think I'll have a header fixin' and fabricatin' day this weekend...Should be Fun!!

So..I'll have lots of Patience...Pre Heat..Back Up...Pedal it...And Drink Lots Of Beer...(My 5 Keys to Successful TIG Welding..he he)

Have Fun...

Chuck

Yeah, TIG welding is difficult to get right. Remember, aluminum has a melting point of just over 1000*F, half that of iron (steel). Are you properly shaping the tungsten electrode (straight ground)? It should be shiny. If it grows a big ball or discolors I usually clip it off and regrind.

I apologize in advance if I am insulting your intelligence.