Roguedog

Hey David,

Add another thrust washer behind the drive plate or if you have an Old 61 FSR swap the FSR drive plate for the SF drive plate. The FSR drive plate is a little thicker and does not use a key. It has a cone that wedges beteen the drive plate and the crankshaft.

The thrust washer OSpart no.46120000 is still available from Tower Hobbies. Towers part number is LXCW52 and is $2.29

Bryan

dhal22

Wow, thanks Bryan. already found the thrust washer and added it to my waiting Tower list. I have a FSR on the Speeda I acquired last fall. I could at least test that idea while I'm waiting.

Thx again.

dhal22

Bryan, I tried to put the 2nd thrush washer behind the drive plate but found that it wouldn't allow the key to sit back in place. I ended up pulling the engine and engine mount and shimming behind it. should have the engine back in tomorrow...........

Roguedog

David,

Sorry it did not work you.

I've had to add the washer on several of my engines because the later replacement thrust plates rubbed on the crankcase when tighting the prop nut.Sometimesthere's enoughroom for the extra washer.If this is the woodruff key you have (see pic) I would have just groundoff the flat spot enough until it fit. I don't think it would have made much of difference.

Shimming the motor mount as you did is best as the alternative would be tosand down the nose, re-prime, re-paint, etc.

Glad you got it worked out.

dhal22

a flat end on the key is a great idea, I will file that one away for future reference. thx

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

The best solution to your problem!! This will also enable you to adjust engine thrust once you fly the plane and start the trimming process...

Looking Great David!!

Chuck

dhal22

Yikes, My homemade shim is a bit too much. Strip the engine, plumbing and mount out and start over. I used thin aluminum and have already sanded it to 1/2 it's original thickness. back in goes everything (again).

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

David,

once you've got the drive washer flush or just slightly recessed, if you can remove the mount, just insert some 6-32 washers between the mount and the firewall on to the 6-32 mount bolts. If you remove one in the correct angle of the four bolts, you end up with an engine with right and down thrust. If you only need down, for example if the right was built in, then you only use washers in the top bolts. If you use 4 washers to bring the drive washer to 1/16" of the nose ring, you can then use two additional washers (or three) to produce the thrust and go from there.

Oh, forget about the plumbing (if you can - maybe it needs to be done due to close quarters) until that engine is mounted with a smooth turning spinner at the correct clearance.

Maybe I'm stating the obvious.

David.

P.S. Love those TT FAI spinners.

dhal22

David, I agree with the washer idea but I tighten so much I think I would compress the washers into the firewall. I really need to place washers between my shim and the engine mount (if needed).

Roguedog

David,

How about afiberglass shim? You could place some epoxy and 3/4 oxz cloth either right on firewall or lay it out on a piece of mylar let it harden then trim to fit. You could add thin strips as needed.

Bryan

dhal22

Sanding the aluminum shim worked. It was 1/8" originally and I sanded it to around a 1/16th. It's very close to where I want it now. Enough to move to the next step.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

Dave,

Looks like you'll have this one finished just in time for that perfect Spring weekend maiden. You've done a fantastic job.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

David,

if you are using lock washers before your flat washers on the mount bolts, you don't want to over-tighten. The idea is that the lock washers provide a little back pressure on the bolt so that it doesn't vibrate loose. They should be tightened until the lock washer is flat and the bolt has bottomed out.

On 40 and larger size models I tend to feel a little wary of using lock washers and blind nuts alone so I fore-go the lock washers, screw my bolts down snug so there is no movement without cranking down the firewall and then back the blind nuts up with locks nuts on the bolts that extend just enough to provide length for the nuts. The engine will go nowhere with that setup. For even more confidence, you can also use the lock washers in case one of the lock nuts should come loose.

As far as the engine thrust goes, if you feel that the 6-32 will flatten into the firewall (they won't unless you are applying undue torque), you can back them up with an 8-32 larger diameter one.

However, it sounds like you've got it sorted out with the alum shim. I wouldn't over-torque your bolts though as it might weaken your firewall in time.

Can't wait to see her idling on the runway!

David.

dhal22

Thx Jeff. David, I'm a plumber, I only know tight and break it tight. I prefer break it tight. Anything less worries me.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

David,

You’ve had that masking tape on the nose for a number of weeks. Is it going to cause problems with your paint?

dhal22

Hey, is someone trying to poke fun at my rate of progress? Mike, i hope not. I have automotive clear coat and the painter's tape is about as expensive as you can buy. However I will go pull it now, just to be safe. Thx for the heads up and i was just kidding with the 1st comment (of course).

dhal22

Got the green "Frog" tape off, no sticking or residue problems. That is excellent tape if anyone hasn't used it.

dhal22

Squeezed a lot in in the wheel well. I got the on/off pull wire, air inlet valve, a battery charging wire tucked behind the on/off wire and the valve stand and a voltmeter. Still plenty of room for the nose wheel.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

I understand. They were just some ideas.

David.

dhal22

No problem David. I had to stop tightening the engine mount. I was worried about stripping the blind nuts or collapsing the wood. Thread lock will help as well.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

David,

What is the green tape called? I’ve used the light stick blue masking tape and sometimes had problems with it leaving marks on the paint.

dhal22

Mike, I believe it's called Frog tape. It's more expensive but much much better than the 3M blue painters tape. You can buy it at home depot. I have switched to automotive crepe paper tape for painting. It is super thin, a similar adhesive to the frog tape and has wax paper on either side of the roll to keep dirt and crud from sticking to the sides. Makes for cleaner painting lines.

dhal22

When I'm this close even just getting the header mounted feels good. I should be ready for completed photos as early as this weekend.[X(]

hrrcflyer

David,

AWESOME job on your BA...... It's another OUTSTANDING rendition of a simply beautiful aircraft. I can't wait to hear about a flight report.

David

dhal22

Thx David, I have enjoyed the ride. The beauty of this airplane design had me smitten the day I 1st looked at 8178's build thread and has kept me going for over 3 years now. And no way I could have done anything like this without Mike's wonderful build thread. He deserves a lot of credit as I looked at his thread 100's and 100's of times for direction and help. He responded to more than one pm as well. I've had lots of help from the rest of the crew here throughout the build. Can't wait to get her in the air too.