Retracts for T2-40
01-02-2008, 12:02 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Retracts for T2-40
I am looking at building my T2-40 kit this winter (kit from Dan Hines of Carolina Aircraft) and I am thinking of using retracts. This will be the first time I have installed them and I have no clue what will work. I think I want mechanical not air power and it will be a taildragger (boo hiss, I know). I fly off grass so they need to be sturdy. I have found a number of choices and some guidance would be most appreciated.
1) Robart mechanical, 5-10lb models. These look good and sturdy and they use 3/16" wire, but they weigh almost 7oz. Might be a bit much for a 40 sized model.
2) Great Planes 60 size retracts. They look kind of flimsy and I cannot find any decent info on them. They use 4mm wire, almost exactly the same as 5/32" which should be good for a 5lb model.
3) B&D retracts. I have found little info on these, but they seem to be well regarded in the searching I have done. A website or info would be most helpful.
Thanks,
Mark
1) Robart mechanical, 5-10lb models. These look good and sturdy and they use 3/16" wire, but they weigh almost 7oz. Might be a bit much for a 40 sized model.
2) Great Planes 60 size retracts. They look kind of flimsy and I cannot find any decent info on them. They use 4mm wire, almost exactly the same as 5/32" which should be good for a 5lb model.
3) B&D retracts. I have found little info on these, but they seem to be well regarded in the searching I have done. A website or info would be most helpful.
Thanks,
Mark
01-03-2008, 04:19 AM
#3
RE: Retracts for T2-40
Well, I know nothing about the retracts listed, but I have been using Hobbico mechanicals in my Superstar, Atlas, Curare, Blue Angel and Warlord. These are all .60 models and have never known the luxury of a paved runway. I use two retract servos to simplify the installation, the models have been flying for at least 5 years now and other that the odd bit of lubrication have needed no maintenance in that time. I started out with 4 cap head 3mm screws holding each unit in and I'm now using two 3mm nylon screws per unit. Just seems to work. 5/32 legs are tons strong enough, bend them on a landing and you will be rebuilding the model as well. It just seems to me that people spend a lot of time making sure that the retracts are anchored so well that they leave no room for the compliance needed to allow the stuff to survive normal wear and tear. Spend a bit more time with the model 'in the circuit' and do lots of touch and goes until you can put it down at the right speed and attitude every time and the brand/type of retracts becomes a non issue.
Evan W.B #12.
Evan W.B #12.
01-03-2008, 08:57 AM
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RE: Retracts for T2-40
I've never owned them...But guys are telling me the B&D's are really good also...I couldn't find a website..only a phone number which I havn't tried yet...It's at home and I'm at work..I'll see if I can dig it up for you later tonight if you can't find anything...
What little I found out is there are pneumatic and mechanical versions of the B&D's...I was going to try the mechanical set...
I'm *thinking* they are going to run around $100 for a tricycle set...But that price was off an obsolete website that still had them listed but they were out of stock?? So the price may be wrong..
How about Dave Brown Retracts?? Have you taken a look at them?? Just a thought...
Edit: Here is a link to the thread about B&D...The phone number I found and a couple of obsolete links are in there too:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#6725328
Have Fun...
Chuck
What little I found out is there are pneumatic and mechanical versions of the B&D's...I was going to try the mechanical set...
I'm *thinking* they are going to run around $100 for a tricycle set...But that price was off an obsolete website that still had them listed but they were out of stock?? So the price may be wrong..
How about Dave Brown Retracts?? Have you taken a look at them?? Just a thought...
Edit: Here is a link to the thread about B&D...The phone number I found and a couple of obsolete links are in there too:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#6725328
Have Fun...
Chuck
01-03-2008, 09:47 AM
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RE: Retracts for T2-40
ORIGINAL: pimmnz
Well, I know nothing about the retracts listed, but I have been using Hobbico mechanicals in my Superstar, Atlas, Curare, Blue Angel and Warlord. These are all .60 models and have never known the luxury of a paved runway. I use two retract servos to simplify the installation, the models have been flying for at least 5 years now and other that the odd bit of lubrication have needed no maintenance in that time. I started out with 4 cap head 3mm screws holding each unit in and I'm now using two 3mm nylon screws per unit. Just seems to work. 5/32 legs are tons strong enough, bend them on a landing and you will be rebuilding the model as well. It just seems to me that people spend a lot of time making sure that the retracts are anchored so well that they leave no room for the compliance needed to allow the stuff to survive normal wear and tear. Spend a bit more time with the model 'in the circuit' and do lots of touch and goes until you can put it down at the right speed and attitude every time and the brand/type of retracts becomes a non issue.
Evan W.B #12.
Well, I know nothing about the retracts listed, but I have been using Hobbico mechanicals in my Superstar, Atlas, Curare, Blue Angel and Warlord. These are all .60 models and have never known the luxury of a paved runway. I use two retract servos to simplify the installation, the models have been flying for at least 5 years now and other that the odd bit of lubrication have needed no maintenance in that time. I started out with 4 cap head 3mm screws holding each unit in and I'm now using two 3mm nylon screws per unit. Just seems to work. 5/32 legs are tons strong enough, bend them on a landing and you will be rebuilding the model as well. It just seems to me that people spend a lot of time making sure that the retracts are anchored so well that they leave no room for the compliance needed to allow the stuff to survive normal wear and tear. Spend a bit more time with the model 'in the circuit' and do lots of touch and goes until you can put it down at the right speed and attitude every time and the brand/type of retracts becomes a non issue.
Evan W.B #12.
Evan,
Would you happen to have photos of your tricycle retract installation. I bough a set of Hobbico HCAP4000 but was unsure how to hook up the nose gear for steering. What do you do, and how to set up with this slotted tab on the side for steering and also allow the gear to retract?
Any help will be appreciated.
01-03-2008, 12:08 PM
#7
Thread Starter
RE: Retracts for T2-40
ORIGINAL: pimmnz
Well, I know nothing about the retracts listed, but I have been using Hobbico mechanicals in my Superstar, Atlas, Curare, Blue Angel and Warlord. These are all .60 models and have never known the luxury of a paved runway. I use two retract servos to simplify the installation, the models have been flying for at least 5 years now and other that the odd bit of lubrication have needed no maintenance in that time. I started out with 4 cap head 3mm screws holding each unit in and I'm now using two 3mm nylon screws per unit. Just seems to work. 5/32 legs are tons strong enough, bend them on a landing and you will be rebuilding the model as well.
Well, I know nothing about the retracts listed, but I have been using Hobbico mechanicals in my Superstar, Atlas, Curare, Blue Angel and Warlord. These are all .60 models and have never known the luxury of a paved runway. I use two retract servos to simplify the installation, the models have been flying for at least 5 years now and other that the odd bit of lubrication have needed no maintenance in that time. I started out with 4 cap head 3mm screws holding each unit in and I'm now using two 3mm nylon screws per unit. Just seems to work. 5/32 legs are tons strong enough, bend them on a landing and you will be rebuilding the model as well.
Thanks for the help, guys.
Mark
01-03-2008, 12:47 PM
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RE: Retracts for T2-40
Here is a link to a set of retracts that are mechanical but yet aluminum frame, kinda best of both worlds i thought.
http://www.3dxhobbies.com/Mechanical..._p/buz4060.htm
I got the link over in the kit building forum and guys used them in the GP Ultra Sports. I personally have not used them and they are a little pricey for mechanicals but thought i would throw out the link for ya. Oh and they are listed out of stock at the moment but expected for delivery in Feb. a little birdy told me. My thought on hobbico's were they wiggled to much in the plastic frame. They did work ok but really wiggled.
http://www.3dxhobbies.com/Mechanical..._p/buz4060.htm
I got the link over in the kit building forum and guys used them in the GP Ultra Sports. I personally have not used them and they are a little pricey for mechanicals but thought i would throw out the link for ya. Oh and they are listed out of stock at the moment but expected for delivery in Feb. a little birdy told me. My thought on hobbico's were they wiggled to much in the plastic frame. They did work ok but really wiggled.
01-03-2008, 04:36 PM
#9
RE: Retracts for T2-40
S'funny, my Hobbicos have ally frames...As for steering setups I use a plastic flex pushrod (Golden rod) straight from the innermost hole on the rudder servo to the slotted 'flag' on the nose retract. With the leg extended this must face rearward. Use a plain metal (Dubro) clevis so it can slide up and down the slot in the flag. The flag can also slide up and down on its operating rod (if you have one in your hand you will see what I mean). So long as you deliver the pushrod reasonably close to the mid point of all this movement then you will have no problem with the retract set up. I don't have a camera that will take adequate photos of the models, but when I can I will post some here.
Evan, WB #12
Evan, WB #12
01-03-2008, 10:32 PM
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RE: Retracts for T2-40
ORIGINAL: pimmnz
S'funny, my Hobbicos have ally frames...As for steering setups I use a plastic flex pushrod (Golden rod) straight from the innermost hole on the rudder servo to the slotted 'flag' on the nose retract. With the leg extended this must face rearward. Use a plain metal (Dubro) clevis so it can slide up and down the slot in the flag. The flag can also slide up and down on its operating rod (if you have one in your hand you will see what I mean). So long as you deliver the pushrod reasonably close to the mid point of all this movement then you will have no problem with the retract set up. I don't have a camera that will take adequate photos of the models, but when I can I will post some here.
Evan, WB #12
S'funny, my Hobbicos have ally frames...As for steering setups I use a plastic flex pushrod (Golden rod) straight from the innermost hole on the rudder servo to the slotted 'flag' on the nose retract. With the leg extended this must face rearward. Use a plain metal (Dubro) clevis so it can slide up and down the slot in the flag. The flag can also slide up and down on its operating rod (if you have one in your hand you will see what I mean). So long as you deliver the pushrod reasonably close to the mid point of all this movement then you will have no problem with the retract set up. I don't have a camera that will take adequate photos of the models, but when I can I will post some here.
Evan, WB #12
Evan,
Thanks, I just tried it with a metal clevis and it worked great. Now, I know you used an independent retract servo for the nose wheel but would you have any ideas on how to do it with just one retract servo on the wing?
