Could someone point me to a build thread (or any other good source) which covers tuned pipe installations? I'm new to pattern and plan several planes. I've already gotten 2 YS 2 strokes with pipes, also several for the OS engines I have. Problem is I've never seen any details on how to mount them properly to the fuse. I have a T2A on it's way & using a YS60 rear exhaust & pipe, I've also got a Big Dirty Birdy which I'm planning a OS160 & pipe on the side.
I'm not especially concerned about these 2, I'd be happy with the basics and some close up photos. Like I began, a build thread would be great.
Thanks in advance.

What a timely question! I'm going through the same thing right now with my Tipo/OS .61 FSR.
I bought this [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZ667&P=7]Macs Mounting Kit[/link], and it will allow you to mount the pipe a couple different ways (directly to the wing/fusalage, or with a wing bolt). That might be all you need.

My question - my Macs header is curved at 90 degrees. This is too much of a curve. Is there a safe way to bend the aluminum header back without damaging it?

grim

Here is a link to tuning: http://www.macspro.com/tuning.asp

I had a header that did not match my model. I could have bought another one from MACS for about forty bucks. Then I came across a local race car shop that does alum tube welding. Cutting and making the angle I needed was a no brainer for these guys. $20. You might look into a local shop that works with aluminum and welding it. IT is really simple. Plus I didn't have to wait a week or better for UPS to come from the west coast.

I have extremely limited space inside the belly pan on my Aurora, so I took a different approach to mounting my pipe. I had a sheet of aluminum at home that I cut. Imagine a "T" shape. At the bottom of the "T" I drilled a hole which the wing rear holddown bolt goes through. The vertical part of the "T" is the width of my pipe channel on the bottom of the wing. The crossbar of the "T" is centered on the widest part of the pipe. I then bent the 2 portions of the crossbar upward, then rolled the edges over. The pipe sits on top of the vertical leg of the T and between the 2 now vertical portions of the crossbar. A simple rubber O-ring from the plumbing department of the local home-repair shop then connects to the 2 rolled flanges of the T. It traps the pipe nicely to the aluminum plate, yet still allows a little movement so you're not breaking the header.

Tim

I think you're wanting a "long radius" type of header that is used on Curares to get it comfortably under the wing... the normal bend on a side exhaust header would probably run the pipe into the wing. Am I imagining your problem correctly?

This might help.

Good info so far so here is another little bit...I soft mount my engines...I've elected to use an "Articulated Header" (Not my term..Stole it..he he)...It's kinda nice in that it allows for a little mis-alignment, adds an intermediate piece of aluminum for tuning and reduces a little stress on the header (in my opinion)...I use a soft mount for the pipe also available from Dave Brown Products (I messed up the factory o-ring so the rubber band as a temporary substitute)

I realize mine is a rear exhaust set-up but I plan to do this to all my stuff...

Just a bit more food for thought...

Chuck & 8178:
Thanks for the info, this helps a lot.
First, Chuck, the rubber bands don't melt?
In both cases, you guys are only using one mount at the end of the pipe? "Seems" like that would be a little flimsy.
You have to disconnect the pipe everytime you fly/remove the wing?
Thanks!

I use nylon lock ties to hold my pipes to the rear mount. I even use them for the flexible fitting between the header and the pipe. When the ties are purchased in those large quantity containers you see at Lowes/Home Depot, etc. they only cost pennies a piece. As you can see in the pic, they even come in colors.

The rubber bands are only on there cause I broke the factory "strap"...I have to order a replacement...I have run with the rubber band on my test stand with success...I doubt I'd ever fly that way though...

I've not noticed any flimsyness (sp?)...lol

Yup...On most of the designs I'm interested in...You'll have to remove the pipe to get the wing off...I wouldn't say "every single airplane" is that way...Allot are though....

I agree...Zip Ties are the way to go...

Have Fun...

Chuck

My Atlanta uses a rear exhaust configuration with the pipe connecting to the bottom of the wing. Needless to say, I need a connector that disconnects easily. I use a velcro strap to secure it. Everybody is shocked that it doesn't melt, but I've been using it for a year and it's no worse for wear.

P.S. Navav2002: is that airplane going to have retracts just in case you rip off the fixed gear or what?

That's good to hear. I'm using a velcro strap as well on the pipe in the Saphir I'm building. I thought it would be okay, but it's nice to have someone's experience as reinforcement.

I guess I have my answer then. One mount point is usually enough, yoke or cradle type. Hold it on with zip ties or almost anything (guess these pipes don't get that hot), even velcro.
I know you guys know what your doing, but still seems like that long pipe mounted only on the far end would put stress on the header.
Airbus, that a T2A? (I just ordered one for my YS60 rear exhaust).
Thanks again for all the info & pictures.