I was looking thrue my plan for my curare and I think I found something wrong.
Hope I'm wrong but the dehydral(sp) was a total of 3 inches, or 1 1/2 each side.
I just glued my wing half's together[]

Thanks[]

I don't have Curare plans in front of me, but I wouldn't be surprised if 3" total was correct.

Don't forget, that wing sits at the bottom of a rather deep fuselage (side area above the wing). Something is needed to help balance things out so that the model will roll linearly.

I see folks always eliminating all dihedral as though they have done something intelligent. I scratch my head and wonder just how much longer this misconception will continue to propagate.

Every model has its own needs regarding dihedral. Very, very few require no dihedral at all for correct rolling and knife-edge characteristics. In fact, shoulder wing models should really have a bit of anhedral (negative dihedral) in order to roll and knife-edge properly.

I wouldn't go into a panic just yet. Look around on the net for other plans or discussions about the Curare. If what is shown IS a mistake, they probably meant 1.5" total and screwed up during the drafting phase. Still, 3" total is not out of the realm of possibility.


Ed Cregger

The M.A.N. plan shows 3". So yo are probably correct. The MK plans show 75mm.

Once the wing's been glued together, it's still a relatively-easy task to add or subtract dihedral. Just put a saw kerf on the center joint. If you want to add dihedral, saw down from the top of the wing about 95% of the way through it. Press the wingtips down a bit so that you can use a fine-blade palette knife to get some slow-cure epoxy into the kerf. Then block and weight the wing at the proper dihedral angle. Once the epoxy's cured, wrap a 6" wide belt of 6-ounce fiberglass clots around the center of the wing. For almost all .60-.61 size airplanes, this is very strong.

To reduce dihedral, saw up from the bottom of the wing.

My Curare wing was joined in 1977 when both the Curare and I were going strong. I just measured 3" total . My Curare is 80% complete just the way I left it 30 some years ago. I have a NIB OS 61 SF, Rohm retracts and everything else I need to get it complete. Plan to fly it this summer. By the way dihedral is something I would not have screwed up back then, today at 63 years old , all bets are off.
Happy Holidays
Ron

I've never been good at getting the dihedral right. At least not with foam wings. I don't know how it happens, but I've built more than one foam wing with the dihedral backwards. I'm no stranger to cutting the wing in half and redoing it the right way. Just one of those many mental quirks that I have. Fortunately, you can't tell it was ever built incorrectly after I finish it up. I've become good at hiding such errors over the years.

I've heard stories about Don Lowe cutting his Phoenix wings at the flying field and doing it over again if he didn't like how his latest Phoenix handled. Hey, ya gotta do what ya gotta do.


Ed Cregger

Oh... now I feel a lot better

Mine has DB mechanical retrac's, a rossi 61 with rossi pipe.
I hope to get it done in early march.

I need some more help later when it's time to glass the wings and stab.

I'll be back(terminator stile)

Thanks[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

for those metric illiterate, let me inform you.

3" = 76.2mm

so if you can tell the difference between 75mm and 76.2mm by flying, come find me and I'll reward you with fabulous riches...

.. and/or a small box with an ant in it.


Fear not good sir, you're correct!

I can tell you the differences because I "have to" when I play with my 3 channel "Tip Tip" .

I have to store him in the small (quote) box otherwise he will run away to other computers!
Tip Tip is smaller than 76.2 - 75 = 1,2 mm, the duct of you USB port!

Cees

3" under one tipe is correct. I've built about a dozen Curares for SPA use. Early ones had reduced dihedral and strange coupling. When I finally quit messing around and used 3", all the mix issues went away.