MK Champion Project
01-03-2009 | 10:52 AM
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From: Naperville, IL
MK Champion Project
MK Champion Project
As a 45 year old, I am celebrating my 38th year as a modeler. I define modeler as one who builds, attempts to build a balsa wood model. My first model was a Guillow's Arrow from the infamous Olie Olson's Hobby Center. The long timers may recognize Olie as the columnist for American Aircraft Modeler's column "Multi-Wing Things", the founder of the National Multi-Wing Championships and a leader among leaders in our world of toy airplanes in the Omaha area. Art Schroeder of Model Airplane News has given credit to Olie as the father of IMAC and attended the very popular event in the early to late 70's.
American Aircraft Modelers were at the local library which allowed me to check out (7) hard bound magazines at a time. Many, many, many times I checked out the maximum (7) and poured through them page by page, reading every word and dreaming of some day actually being able to buy one of the special model kits or an engine or maybe even one of the Kraft or Pro-line radios.
School, girls, college, girls, career, more expensive girls, more complex career, really expensive girls, kids...my interest and passion for modeling has grown as well as the connection with my modeling past. Nostalgic for the models and respectful of the friendships shared. Each year, for the last (12) or so years, I have built/acquired a model of significant emotional connection to my past. The first choice was the Gator Flea and I even tracked down Rhett Miller for a special personal conversation.
The MK Champion Project
The MK Champion was a kit I looked at each Saturday morning at Bud's Hobby Shop of Council Bluffs, IA. Dave Drumm and Dick Gillette, picked me up every Saturday morning to visit Bud's and have lunch. I was the luckiest 12 year old in the world. The kit finally was sold, never to be seen again until...Buy-Bay!
About 33 years later and $122 plus shipping, the orangish red plastic molded fuselage was mine! An old school Enya .60 III was found on Buy-Bay for $55 plus shipping.
Details:
Fuselage is molded of a plastic similar to a plastic poly ethyl something drinking glass in crazy orange. It was also available in red and blue.
The cowl is made with a die-cut piece of aluminum that is hand formed. I applied orange trim Monokote prior to forming which worked very well. Trim Monokote white and black stripping tape completes the "box" color scheme.
It is an MK kit, so the wood is fantastic, even 35 years old. Built up wing, fully sheeted and a flat built up fully sheeted stab. The fuselage has a plywood crutch which is bolted to the fuselage. The firewall is a precision molded (2) piece design that perfectly keyes into the molded fuselage.
This is not a part by part discussion, just an overview of things I find interesting.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
As a 45 year old, I am celebrating my 38th year as a modeler. I define modeler as one who builds, attempts to build a balsa wood model. My first model was a Guillow's Arrow from the infamous Olie Olson's Hobby Center. The long timers may recognize Olie as the columnist for American Aircraft Modeler's column "Multi-Wing Things", the founder of the National Multi-Wing Championships and a leader among leaders in our world of toy airplanes in the Omaha area. Art Schroeder of Model Airplane News has given credit to Olie as the father of IMAC and attended the very popular event in the early to late 70's.
American Aircraft Modelers were at the local library which allowed me to check out (7) hard bound magazines at a time. Many, many, many times I checked out the maximum (7) and poured through them page by page, reading every word and dreaming of some day actually being able to buy one of the special model kits or an engine or maybe even one of the Kraft or Pro-line radios.
School, girls, college, girls, career, more expensive girls, more complex career, really expensive girls, kids...my interest and passion for modeling has grown as well as the connection with my modeling past. Nostalgic for the models and respectful of the friendships shared. Each year, for the last (12) or so years, I have built/acquired a model of significant emotional connection to my past. The first choice was the Gator Flea and I even tracked down Rhett Miller for a special personal conversation.
The MK Champion Project
The MK Champion was a kit I looked at each Saturday morning at Bud's Hobby Shop of Council Bluffs, IA. Dave Drumm and Dick Gillette, picked me up every Saturday morning to visit Bud's and have lunch. I was the luckiest 12 year old in the world. The kit finally was sold, never to be seen again until...Buy-Bay!
About 33 years later and $122 plus shipping, the orangish red plastic molded fuselage was mine! An old school Enya .60 III was found on Buy-Bay for $55 plus shipping.
Details:
Fuselage is molded of a plastic similar to a plastic poly ethyl something drinking glass in crazy orange. It was also available in red and blue.
The cowl is made with a die-cut piece of aluminum that is hand formed. I applied orange trim Monokote prior to forming which worked very well. Trim Monokote white and black stripping tape completes the "box" color scheme.
It is an MK kit, so the wood is fantastic, even 35 years old. Built up wing, fully sheeted and a flat built up fully sheeted stab. The fuselage has a plywood crutch which is bolted to the fuselage. The firewall is a precision molded (2) piece design that perfectly keyes into the molded fuselage.
This is not a part by part discussion, just an overview of things I find interesting.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
01-03-2009 | 11:55 AM
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From: Burtchville,
MI
RE: MK Champion Project
Pretty aircraft. Worth the wait I think. After all this time are you going to have the nerve to actually fly it? Now, polish it off with a nice Brodak polished aluninum spinner and fire it up. The engine being an Enya (my favorite) break it in rich and slowly.
Bill
Bill
01-03-2009 | 12:03 PM
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From: Burtchville,
MI
RE: MK Champion Project
Hey BERUSTY can you clarify something for me? Why the "buy bay" and "that well known auction site" etc. Why can't we apparently mention _B__ on this forum. Will we grow hair on our plams or go blind? Is it because They are looked upon as competition for RCU classifieds. What the heck gives?
Bill[sm=confused.gif]
Bill[sm=confused.gif]
]
01-04-2009 | 02:36 PM
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From: Naperville, IL
RE: MK Champion Project
MK Champion Project
Photos include the plans, fuselage details and wing structure.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
Photos include the plans, fuselage details and wing structure.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
01-04-2009 | 02:38 PM
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From: Naperville, IL
RE: MK Champion Project
MK Champion Project
Photos include the plans, fuselage details and wing structure.
Push rods are Central Hobbies 3/16 carbon rods with titanium ends (4-40) and Dubro ball links. The surface features MK aluminum control horns medium for elevator and small for rudder. Titanium ends and Hayes metal pined clevis with fuel tubing as added level of safety.
The fuel tank is from World Models for the A-6 Intruder. 320cc, unique size/shape and a great value at less than $8.
Futaba servos are S3305 for elevator and rudder, S148 throttle and a S9151 (1) will be used for the ailerons with torque rods. I will use a 4.8 volt standard Futaba battery and either a 14mz receiver or the 8 channel 2.4 receiver.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
Photos include the plans, fuselage details and wing structure.
Push rods are Central Hobbies 3/16 carbon rods with titanium ends (4-40) and Dubro ball links. The surface features MK aluminum control horns medium for elevator and small for rudder. Titanium ends and Hayes metal pined clevis with fuel tubing as added level of safety.
The fuel tank is from World Models for the A-6 Intruder. 320cc, unique size/shape and a great value at less than $8.
Futaba servos are S3305 for elevator and rudder, S148 throttle and a S9151 (1) will be used for the ailerons with torque rods. I will use a 4.8 volt standard Futaba battery and either a 14mz receiver or the 8 channel 2.4 receiver.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
01-04-2009 | 02:41 PM
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From: Naperville, IL
RE: MK Champion Project
MK Champion Project
Photos include the plans, fuselage details and wing structure.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
Photos include the plans, fuselage details and wing structure.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
01-04-2009 | 06:19 PM
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From: Euharlee,
GA
RE: MK Champion Project
Rusty, On your Central Hobbies C/F rods how are you avoiding the "trapped air" syndrome while installing the second pushrod end?? Did you drill a hole?? Heat the tubing??
I recently did some of those rods and decided to drill a hole very close to the titanium end... I'm OK with that process but didn't know if you had a better way??
Nice looking project!!
Thanks..
Chuck
I recently did some of those rods and decided to drill a hole very close to the titanium end... I'm OK with that process but didn't know if you had a better way??
Nice looking project!!
Thanks..
Chuck
01-04-2009 | 08:28 PM
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From: Naperville, IL
RE: MK Champion Project
MK Champion Project
Central Hobbies push rod ends...installing second end, experiencing compressed air syndrome...
Yes, I build the rods as suggested using JB Weld as the glue. The first end is installed with one working in the glue in the tube with a twisting of the titanium end. I repeat this a couple of times to make sure the glue is in the tube and in the machined flutes of the rod end.
The second end uses the same process and I tape the titanium end to the rod because it wants to push out due to the air being compressed. I do not drill any holes and probably would not being concerned about fatigue. Carbon strands depend on their uninterupted lengths, the hole would change this.
The rods come in 5/32", 3/16" and 1/4" diameters in varying legths. The titanium rod ends come in many many thread sizes for US and Metric sizes for an infinite number of hardware choices. MK provides excellent ball bearing components for servo and control horn side of a linkage. Central Hobbies also offers a line from NMP. THe NMP brand is a precision ball ends in Metric sizes also. I use the NMP parts on the servo ends.
The Central Hobbies web site provides valuable pushrod set-up and design information including an excellent dual carbon elevator set-up that if installed correctly is fabulous.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
Very long time satisfied Central Hobbies customer
Central Hobbies push rod ends...installing second end, experiencing compressed air syndrome...
Yes, I build the rods as suggested using JB Weld as the glue. The first end is installed with one working in the glue in the tube with a twisting of the titanium end. I repeat this a couple of times to make sure the glue is in the tube and in the machined flutes of the rod end.
The second end uses the same process and I tape the titanium end to the rod because it wants to push out due to the air being compressed. I do not drill any holes and probably would not being concerned about fatigue. Carbon strands depend on their uninterupted lengths, the hole would change this.
The rods come in 5/32", 3/16" and 1/4" diameters in varying legths. The titanium rod ends come in many many thread sizes for US and Metric sizes for an infinite number of hardware choices. MK provides excellent ball bearing components for servo and control horn side of a linkage. Central Hobbies also offers a line from NMP. THe NMP brand is a precision ball ends in Metric sizes also. I use the NMP parts on the servo ends.
The Central Hobbies web site provides valuable pushrod set-up and design information including an excellent dual carbon elevator set-up that if installed correctly is fabulous.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
Very long time satisfied Central Hobbies customer
01-04-2009 | 08:47 PM
#12
RE: MK Champion Project
actually, i didn't like the method that central hobbies shows. a short piece of tube connected to the 2 long rods which pass through the clear plastic tubes is a lot of work to set up and the rods have considerable friction in the clear tubes. i used the main tube for most of the push rod length and connected the rods towards the end of the tube. i used a wedge of balsa to spread the rods to the desired v and wrapped it with kevlar thread and CA. the joint is so hard you could drill and tap it if you wanted. just a couple of supports is plenty for the main tube and i used some of the leftover clear tubing for flush exit holes. i will eventually cut the rods and the tube to fit and install/glue the ends on. much much less friction than the CH recommended way.
01-04-2009 | 09:16 PM
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From: Naperville, IL
RE: MK Champion Project
MK Building Project
How I build MK (Japanese style well engineered) wings. If you have not built an MK kit, you really have missed "classic wood modeling" at its best. The wings are always built up balsa wood and fully sheeted. A well built built up wing can be lighter than an average constructed foam wing, recognizing that a "Pro-built" foam wing made with hand selected balsa will be lighter, straighter, stronger.
Rusty's Rule #1- A straight and light airplane can be set-up and trimmed to be a great model. A crooked and heavy airplane should be given away.
Rusty's Rule #2- The wing is what flies so make every effort to make it straight, symmetrical left to right and as light as the you can.
The following method was not invented by me, I am not suggesting that I thought of it. The method does work as long the building surface is flat and straight...your eyeballs straight. I use a maple top mounted to (2) IKEA cabinet bases with (8) adjustable legs. The cabinet bases are connected with 1 x 4's and have a few cross braces. I check it every so often to see how it is moving. THe finish is about (6) coats of clear urethane, waxed and recoated every few months.
Process: I acually glue the wing to the work bench. Painters tape is used as a "mold release" with little balsa sticks glued to the wing and the tape on the work bench. Each rib had a centerline drawn on it as well as the leading edge during initial construction. The MK Champion has the top of the wing flat and no wash in/out so it is glued together with the top down. The spar is tack glued, then the tips are floated parallel to the work surface, then the center.
Straight trailing edges are created using square aluminum tubing then shimmed along the TE with little balsa sticks. The photos of the Champion show many used on the right wing panel due to the crappy crooked TE piece and the left was much better.
The wing sheeting is carefully assembled with parallel sheets to the LE and TE with a triangle sliver at the main spar...tedious, results always are good. The sheets are taped together using 1" painters tape and yellow Titebond glue, weighted overnight. Sanding consists of a long straight block with NEW 80 grit paper and finished with an aluminum T bar sanding bar. Vaccuum, a little angle is added to the leading edge of the sheeting to properly fit against the LE attached to wing.
Titebond Trim glue (does not run) is used on the ribs, spar and TE with thick cyano used on the LE of sheeting aligned with a long straight edge as it is attached...straight is what straight does. Pins are added after pressing and repressing the sheeting to the very solid structure. Let dry overnight. The wing will be broken free from the little sticks, the tape removed from the work bench and the top sheeting will be applied using a similar process. The structure is very accurate.
Time...wing sheeting took about 3 hours to make. The raw wing panels took 2 hours. Gluing the wing to the bench took about an hour. Sanding wing sheeting, cut (2) sheets and apply took about 2 more hours.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
How I build MK (Japanese style well engineered) wings. If you have not built an MK kit, you really have missed "classic wood modeling" at its best. The wings are always built up balsa wood and fully sheeted. A well built built up wing can be lighter than an average constructed foam wing, recognizing that a "Pro-built" foam wing made with hand selected balsa will be lighter, straighter, stronger.
Rusty's Rule #1- A straight and light airplane can be set-up and trimmed to be a great model. A crooked and heavy airplane should be given away.
Rusty's Rule #2- The wing is what flies so make every effort to make it straight, symmetrical left to right and as light as the you can.
The following method was not invented by me, I am not suggesting that I thought of it. The method does work as long the building surface is flat and straight...your eyeballs straight. I use a maple top mounted to (2) IKEA cabinet bases with (8) adjustable legs. The cabinet bases are connected with 1 x 4's and have a few cross braces. I check it every so often to see how it is moving. THe finish is about (6) coats of clear urethane, waxed and recoated every few months.
Process: I acually glue the wing to the work bench. Painters tape is used as a "mold release" with little balsa sticks glued to the wing and the tape on the work bench. Each rib had a centerline drawn on it as well as the leading edge during initial construction. The MK Champion has the top of the wing flat and no wash in/out so it is glued together with the top down. The spar is tack glued, then the tips are floated parallel to the work surface, then the center.
Straight trailing edges are created using square aluminum tubing then shimmed along the TE with little balsa sticks. The photos of the Champion show many used on the right wing panel due to the crappy crooked TE piece and the left was much better.
The wing sheeting is carefully assembled with parallel sheets to the LE and TE with a triangle sliver at the main spar...tedious, results always are good. The sheets are taped together using 1" painters tape and yellow Titebond glue, weighted overnight. Sanding consists of a long straight block with NEW 80 grit paper and finished with an aluminum T bar sanding bar. Vaccuum, a little angle is added to the leading edge of the sheeting to properly fit against the LE attached to wing.
Titebond Trim glue (does not run) is used on the ribs, spar and TE with thick cyano used on the LE of sheeting aligned with a long straight edge as it is attached...straight is what straight does. Pins are added after pressing and repressing the sheeting to the very solid structure. Let dry overnight. The wing will be broken free from the little sticks, the tape removed from the work bench and the top sheeting will be applied using a similar process. The structure is very accurate.
Time...wing sheeting took about 3 hours to make. The raw wing panels took 2 hours. Gluing the wing to the bench took about an hour. Sanding wing sheeting, cut (2) sheets and apply took about 2 more hours.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
08-24-2009 | 06:46 PM
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From: Naperville, IL
RE: MK Champion Project
Sneek peek...
The MK Champion Project as a "Review: MK Champion" (like the original Radio Control Modeler reviews) will be featured in the September 2009 issue of the Classic Pattern-Trader, available in late September 2009. The comprehensive review will discuss kit features, construction details and of course flight characteristics.
Classic Pattern Reference: The World Models Intruder
I have decided to use the World Models Intruder as the "Classic Reference" for the series of planned reviews due to it's market acceptance (they have sold a bunch of these!) ease of assembly, excellent flight characteristics and fine value at $200. The Intruder will also be featured in the September Classic Pattern-Trader as a "Review: World Models Intruder". I have used a number of engine/prop/no pipe/pipe combinations on my O.S. .61 FX version and discuss each flying the 1973 FAI sequence. No discussions will be made supporting the convenient rules of the SPA allowing the OS .91 4-cycle (the YS is not allowed!).
The photos below show the CP-T creative staff holding the MK Champion, decorated per the manufacturer's box art.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
Editor CP-T
The MK Champion Project as a "Review: MK Champion" (like the original Radio Control Modeler reviews) will be featured in the September 2009 issue of the Classic Pattern-Trader, available in late September 2009. The comprehensive review will discuss kit features, construction details and of course flight characteristics.
Classic Pattern Reference: The World Models Intruder
I have decided to use the World Models Intruder as the "Classic Reference" for the series of planned reviews due to it's market acceptance (they have sold a bunch of these!) ease of assembly, excellent flight characteristics and fine value at $200. The Intruder will also be featured in the September Classic Pattern-Trader as a "Review: World Models Intruder". I have used a number of engine/prop/no pipe/pipe combinations on my O.S. .61 FX version and discuss each flying the 1973 FAI sequence. No discussions will be made supporting the convenient rules of the SPA allowing the OS .91 4-cycle (the YS is not allowed!).
The photos below show the CP-T creative staff holding the MK Champion, decorated per the manufacturer's box art.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service
Editor CP-T
01-12-2010 | 02:26 PM
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From: Naperville, IL
RE: MK Champion Project
MK Champion Project...from the January 2010 Classic Pattern-Trader!
The final version of the MK Champion review from the January 2010 Classic Pattern-Trader...I know..I missed the September deadline!
Thank you for your interest!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Editor, Classic Pattern-Trader
The final version of the MK Champion review from the January 2010 Classic Pattern-Trader...I know..I missed the September deadline!
Thank you for your interest!
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Editor, Classic Pattern-Trader
