crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Best place to order BSI product's ? Could not find an order form on their site. Did I overlook it ? Not at Tower or Horizon.

Thanks,

Crank

RFJ

Not an answer to your question Crank but ................. BSI 5 minute epoxy is the best I have ever used [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Ray

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks. Going to try one of their product's, for fillet's, maybe glassing wing skin's. I have been using Zap Finishing Resin, and have been advised that BSI is much better, application and finish sanding. Zap has worked fine thru the year's, but if there is a better method, I want to give it a go, ready to lay some lite cloth on these Phoenix 6 wing panel's. For fillet's I have been using finishing resin and micro-baloon's.

Crank

jfuller

My Feedback: (8)

Hi,

There is a "dealer locator" tab on the BSI site that should get you to someone close. Chief Aircraft sells it and you can find their ad in MAN.

jamesf

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks James, you are right, it was right in front of me.

Crank

Gregg G

My Feedback: (7)

Hey Crank,
Not to sound stupid, but have you thought about using polyurathane glue to join wing skins? I've had great success with it.

Greg Grigsby

KLXMASTER14

Vince,
I get mine from my LHS.

Disclaimer (of sorts): I have mentioned that I worked for Bob Smith many decades ago, I am not affiliated with BSI in any way. My hearty endorsement of his products are based solely on my satisfaction with their performance. If they were crap, I would use something else.

-Robert

dhal22

you can not beat PU glue for skinning wings. it can be applied (rolled) so thin only a sheen visible by holding the core up to the light is seen yet it will still expand 1/4" into the foam. instead of weights i use thick mdf pieces and clamp firmly. and i also lightly mist the balsa skins.

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

Hey All - Years ago, I built many a Phoenix' with Dave Brown, in his basement. before DB Product's. That was over 40 year's ago, we drank a lot of Stroh's. We were buying Sorghum from Southern RC Product's. Living on World Engine's pay wasn't the best, but we bought engine's, etc., at huge discount's. Super Tigre 60BB RC's were retailed at $39.95, employee cost, $20.00, no tax. The G-60's or 61's were $25.00 employee cost. There were many modeler's working there. Lot of engine's just disappeared. The sales manager, named Paul. I remember he went to the back one day to pull an engine off the shelf. He came back out to the shipping area, cussing up a storm. He said that he did not mind guy's stealing an engine once in a while, but they shouldn't put the empty box back on the shelf.
Usually most of the popular OS and Super-Tigre engine's would be eaten up by back-order's.

Back to the Sorghum. That is the only method I know and understand. Dave bought Southern RC a little while after starting his own company, the retract's and Sorghum came with it. After I left World and got a real job, I would buy Sorghum from DB Product's. Took a very long vacation from the hobby, and started building glass and foam planes again about 3 years ago. DBP was still selling the stuff.

Tried to buy some about a year ago, and they quit handling it. Sally said they had about 7 gallon's left, and shipped it all to Wing Mfg. I called him up, he said he was going to bottle it, sell rest of it off. I told him to backorder me about 7 bottle's. That was the last I heard of it. I put an APB out on RCU and a couple other place's, got a good response. I bought some, and some guy's just sent it to me no charge, to get rid of it, they are using other method's.

I now have about 10 bottle's, and skinned a wing on another P-6, it worked great. I wrap the LE's, best way for me. You guy's are right, the other method's work fine also. Long answer here.

Vince

Charlee Smith

Jupiter Hobbies (which is changing its name to Legend R/C) in Jupiter is the closest dealer. Their lastest order will be in on Wednesday and it includes Finish-Cure.

Charlee Smith
BSI

KLXMASTER14

Hi Charlee!

-Robert Fish

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

I have used the Bob Smith finishing resin several times, and everytime it comes out a bit soft. It never did sand well, and while in the end with careful wet sanding and post curing in the hot son, it did look ok, it was way too much worked needed vs. Zpoxy Finishing resin. With the BSI, I even used syringes to measure it out after the first batch didn't get as hard as I thought it should. I was using it in a 70ish degree heated garage, low humidity(winter time), all of the normal issues were addressed, and it always came out softer.
I love their Foam Safe CA though!

Charlee Smith

Finish-Cure must be at 75 degrees or more for the entire 8 hour curing time. Exposing it to higher temperatures after the initial curing period can sometimes work, but it usually doesn't. Was your garage heated (since you said it was winter) the full curing time?

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

The garage was heated 24-7. It was the same temperature as the house since the garage was on the central hvac system. It merely a garage from the outside, on the inside it was insulated, heat/air/tv/phone etc etc...
I do not even keep my house at 75 degrees. In the winter it is 68-69, and the summer is 71.
My favorite glassing method was K&B clear mixed with satin catalyst.

RFJ

I doubt that very much. I said BSI is the best 5 minute epoxy but I believe, with the demise of K&B, Zap now produce the best finishing resin. It even cures in an Irish garage in winter and that is cold []

Ray

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

I do like Zap better than BSI, however, I am not going to say the BSI is junk.
I could have a bad batch, old batch, who knows. I know that with Zap, I let it cure for three days, and I can dry sand it. I despise wet sanding, so I try to avoid at all costs.

smacfe

Speaking of BSI products, I am building a T2A kit. The fuselage has been cut off where the firewall should be, making it look like it is a cowl. I don't recall the kits to be like this. The cut does indicate 4 degrees of downthrust instead of 2 degrees as called for on the plans. The cut looks clean like it was done in a jig - does anyone remember the kits like this?
Scott

crankpin

My Feedback: (15)

RFJ - Finising Resin. ZAP. Best I ever used, and I have tried other's. For fillet's, ZAP and micro-baloon's. There may be better, so my opinion is only from what I have success with.

Crank

Deadstik

My Feedback: (8)

Scott,

I currently kit the T2A MK I and can tell you that yours is the first T2A I have ever seen with the front end cut as a cowl. The airplane most certainly does NOT need 4 degrees downthrust. My guess is whomever had the kit was trying to make it easier to mount and service the engine. If I were you, I would make it back into a one piece fuselage. That can be done by butting the two pieces together and then overlapping them with 6 oz cloth. If you need any help on this, just email me at [email protected] and I could send you some detailed instructions.


Dan





Dan Hines
Carolina Custom Aircraft
[email protected]