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RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
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RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
I believe what you have in the Pattern Master is a fresh kitting by Midwest of the deBolt Viscount. The Viscount was deBolt's design from the early 60's. I built one around 1965 but was unsuccessful in flying it with multi-channel reeds because of inexperience. In search of Viscount plans for a second chance at building and flying this airplane, I was steered to Fran Ptaszkiewicz who worked in deBolt's shop and had some left over plans which I purchased. One of the plans I requested was the Viscount. I had a very interesting conversation with Fran and I recall being told that the Pattern Master was the Viscount under a different name. The Viscount is on my list of airplanes to build ASAP. I would like to realize how it did fly, only this time with flying experience and modern, reliable radio and engine.
I hope you are having a good time flying this remake of a classic. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
I have three flights on this one so far. It's a very nice flyer with no bad habits. I have it powered with a "new" 2nd gen AXII . Newer design that has it's needle
back on the carb, unlike the first having the remote needle. Tight fit with engine in it's bay / fuel line routing. Really no room for the remote mounted on the backing plate area. Tried different locations / positions with an AX and could not come up with a happy mounting with out running into a fuel pick up problem. I picked up an AX II for that reason. But, it's a tight fit for gear as well, as I'm sure you know if you've built this one I can see how it would be difficult to fit an older AM or even an FM receiver in this one. That would be a real chore to try and get it to balance out right. I fly Spectrum. So the forward area, in front of servo tray area compartment, made for the location to mount the receiver with it's remote. 2.4 Receivers weigh nothing. Running a 4.8 flat pack for the RX pack. In mine I have it mounted just in front of the rear wing saddle bulkhead under the rud. and ele. push rods. As far back as I could get it with out cannibalizing the fuse. The OS .46 AX is a fairly heavy piece for what it is.... and when balancing ( I use a Sig Balancer) ... it took an OZ. and a 1/4 on the tail for balance to give a level flight attitude with placing the pack as mentioned. I really didn't want to start jockeying the servo tray back. I followed what was drawn for location. Push rods were made up in length accordingly. They're CF rods with 4-40 hardware. As mentioned, I airfoiled a taper for the elevator and rudder. Seeing this has a flying stab, I believe the level balance is critical for a level flight. When trimming, it only took a few "beeps" of elevator which isn't to much with digital trims, with nothing else needed for a hands off into the wind ( maybe 4-6mph) flight. It's very good flier. I think this would be very difficult to obtain with older equipment, but with todays technology and equipment available, and balanced right .. it makes for a very good sport flier. I had a 10/6 mounted up for those first flights and it could of used more. Trying to get it to pull through a Top Hat, it was a little under propped. It'll be getting a 7 on next time I can make it out. Weather has not been cooperating around here. But, an 11" is to big for ground clearance. I still do have the prints, supplements and manual available for those that may need copies if needed. I'd be more than happy to have Kinko's copy for anyone requesting or needing. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
I have enjoyed looking at your construction pictures and am wishing I didn't have 2 or 3 other projects in process. Otherwise, I might be cutting wing ribs and fuse sides for the Viscount. It appears to be a relatively easy airplane to build with slab sides and constant chord wings. Will there be more pictures regarding wing construction?
I am kind of holding off building the Viscount from plans as I have a lead on an actual Viscount kit. That would make life a bit easier with a quicker build. There are other deBolt airplanes that I would like to build also. I have plans for the Acrobat, Jenny, Sonic Cruiser and the Champ. I just can't see assembling an ARF when there are so many fun airplanes to build and fly that are different from anythig else. I look forward to additional installments of the build if you have them. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
70's design were for very light engines with small cases that were often bushed instead of ball bearing. When using modern engines everything can be moved back, including the engine. My Kaos 40's are all equipped with battery packs behind the wing.<div>Chris...</div>
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RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
heggen
Glad you like the pics. No, I no longer have have any pics of wing construction. Wish I did. I did have those of the wing and stab showing the dihedral jig for the wing, But have lost those do to a drive problem on a computer , lost the photos. Those that I have shown were the only remaining pics I had on a sim card for the camera I used. I was going to do a full build thread at the time on this but never got around to doing it. I got to involved with the build and didn't want to spend my time on the computer. Wing const. was a relatively straight forward build, just in one piece on the "jig" upside down. Supplement plan showed how to build this jig using 5/8" ply. At the time, MDF was a thing of the future and not yet available. I used MDF ( as shown for the fuse const. also). Relatively cheap, compared to buying a full 4x8 sheet of ply, and just using two small ripped/ cut pieces from it, approximately 14"x30". This jig is really simple to build. Just to pieces with a bevel cut to join at the center, cut to the required length. Then a riser block is ripped /cut for middle in order to raise the center giving it's dihedral angle. I believe it was 2" or so. Then two scabbed pieces of pine on both sides cut to the angle acting as angled gussets ... support stiffeners. MDF shelving can be obtained fairly cheap at home centers in 16"x 48" pieces for under $6 a piece ( I could be wrong within pennies don't mark my word on that price), compared to a sheet of 5/8 -3/4" AC ply at $35 or so a sheet. MDF is straighter than any piece of ply you could obtain in my own experience anyway. I'm a carpenter. This jig is a consumable piece. The wing rib layout / spar center line are drawn and laid out on the MDF jig on both pieces - halves, for construction. Just transferring what's on the print to the MDF. Wing ribs are full symmetrical and yes, the wing is a constant chord with strip ailerons but, it has a tapering airfoil ( root too tip). A few of the ribs ( think it was 4 per side/ wing half) come with cradles, that match the rib, which are then positioned- glued to the jig at corresponding locations. I think you understand the need for these cradles in the wings construction. Sheets /Pieces needed for the leading and trailing edge sheeting are then laid in these cradles ..with wing ribs glued to the LE and TE sheeting @ a 90 deg opposing angle to the table. Bottom main spar is then laid in followed by bottom center section sheeting and cap stripping ... blah ... blah ... blah ... thus construction /building the wing in one piece up side down. It's then removed from its "cradle" / jig and the top of wing is then completed in same fashion. I'm thinking having just the prints in hand for this one, really wouldn't help to much. You need the manual plus the other supplemental drawings to refer too showing the exploded views in order to understand and gather it's construction up. But, if your a seasoned scratch builder,yes you could work with just the prints. That's just in my own opinion though. If you have access too or own a CNC router or can have them laser cut... then yes heggen, you could cut your own. But as mentioned, this is a tapering airfoil. Those might be a bit of a trick to cut with out having patterns on hand for those. "I know longer have rib punch outs saved and marked." I thought about it at the time when building this one, but I didn't save them. Stab is constructed in the same fashion as the wing. Just with-out a dihedral jig of course. So I think that if you had a kit on hand, it would be relatively easy. Even if you had to replace any of the balsa. You'd still have "full size" templates to work with. I also mentioned nun of the die cuts were marked. At least the kit I had anyway. You kind of need the manual also to refer to in order to mark pieces. It shows the sheets and parts layout included within the kit (in smaller scale ) that show the parts .. #'ed on 3"x30" -3/32", 1/8" etc . Thinking these drawings could be blown up to scale size and then you'd have full-size drawings of ribs /parts etc. Those could then be entered into a CNC / program for cutting. Just a thought tho. But, thanks for the compliment on the pics I have shown. Always enjoy corresponding with those who build. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
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I've done the same. I've moved batteries behind the wing in order to gain a CG on others. There's not a lot of room
in the PM to play with though with out seriously cutting into it. I.E - few of the pics shows the tank. It is squeezed. I discussed with an experienced older flyer that helped out with maiden and wondered about dropping it down too an 8oz. Advised there's really no problem. Your not having any foaming or pick up issues as of now. But, the first sign of foaming, I'll be dropping the tank down to an 8 in order to gain room for foam. Print / plans showed use of an SS-10 .. slant.. which is what I followed and used. Tank has compartment has foam on the floor. Just a really tight squeeze between the fuse sides for a 10. I'm thinking that if it had the slightest room to shake / move I'd have foaming issues. But, seeing it's squeezed, it's not giving ample room to move from vibration ( if that makes any sense). I'm not competing with it where that may become an issue. Just for sport. A few pics to show it on the balancer and also gear with battery placement. You can kind of get an idea how much of a squeeze every thing is with out a lot room to play as far moving aft. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
Today I couldn't resist pulling out the plans for the Viscount and do some comparing of what I have read in your writings and pictures and my plans. It appears things are very close to the Pattern Master except for:
The wing is a constant chord, constant thickness, the engine is mounted on hardwood beams that go through the firewall and block fills in at the nose under the engine, the rudder stops at the top of the elevator and the elevator is rounded at the outer aft corners. In a weak moment this morning, I cut out the wing and stab rib tracings that I had traced from the plan, put them on a piece of 1/16" plywood, and sawed them out with my jigsaw. I checked my wood supply and found I have enough to do the airplane. It will be a build that will be done in between more important things, but I can't stand not starting this build. Also I want some more practice with Stits paint before I cover and paint my 1/3 scale Pitts S2 with it. I think having put off building another Viscount the past 48 years is long enough. And, yes, I am a seasoned builder, and am loving building more with every new scratch project I start. I only wish I had as much good flying weather as I have building time. I intend to post some pictures as things progress. I hope your Pattern Master gives you many, many happy flights. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
Preview This preview windows does not show attachments RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master Heggen, The radial mount shown, was my own doing. I chose to go with a DB radial sized for the 46 when I started the build and incorporate the front gear with it as shown. What came in the kit; which I still have, was an aluminum one piece ( like a radial) that mounted to the FW and then used 2 hardwood maple blocks that mounted to that as the engine bearing blocks( mounting). Those were to be held to the aluminum mount with a pair of #6 / #8 wood screws for each side. I went with the Radial for ease and also the fact being I didn't have much faith with those blocks lasting too long being held with a pair of wood screws. I figured those ( blocks) would eventually deteriorate /shrink/ move easily with fuel spillage .. etc. and those screws would eventually loosen up and walk out. But, I saved it as a collectors piece. I had the thought of using it and replacing the wood blocking with a pair of 3/8"x 3/8" ( or what ever it took) pieces of aluminum stock tapped and held on with a pair 6-32's or 8-32's machines for each side. Getting a little bit to involved I thought and wanted to fly and decided to take the easy way.... DB radial for a .46. $3 or so at the local HS. Done. I want to fly it.. I didn't want to baby sit it. But with yours ... I know of the solid beam type and carrying through bearing on the FW and epoxied to that and the fuse sides. I would think you'd have to use a blind to capture the bolt if going from top. Or, going up from bottom and studding it with use of 6-32 nut and lock washer. Also setting in down thrust angles, I'm not very good when it comes to that. I rely on the firewall's incorporated position on the print for the correct down / right thrusts, that are upon the thrust line, and just using a 0-0 deg. "squared" mount. It makes it simple for me. The mount can be shimmed if it needs and it shows the wrong thrust when in flight.. too a slight degree. If you decided to go this route with yours though - the Viscount, I don't think it would be a difficult job setting up the fire wall to give the needed; correct, down and right thrust angles and using a mount that's "squared" 0-0 deg for what ever size your running .... rather than gluing in permanent beam mounting to incorporate those angles. I think the original TF Contender was one that used that same beam mount type const method if memory serves right, along with most others of the period. Again, I have no faith in my self if I had to do that. For mounting, I prefer to run down and just tap.. extend and capture a nut on the bottom of the exposed threads if needed and possible. Going with the above method that came with the P Master kit though, I'd have constantly remove the whole thing to check those screws holding the blocks to the aluminum. Way I went, I don't have any issues with it wanting to climb upon throttle, or dropping. I can very easily check the 4 mounting with a long ball drive allen and be done. As far as the rudder, I had the thought it wouldn't have a lot of authority because of it's size.. but it does. I haven't tried to throw it in a knife yet. Not sure how well it'll hold it with the dihedral. But tracking, level flight, vertical, it's very good for what it is. Like tracking upon a final ... it's great. I'm Very happy with it's performance. You state the wing of the Viscount is a non tapering airfoil. That makes it easy. Hal must have come up with a tapering airfoil after doing the Viscount trying to gain something more. I'm curious if it has the same NACA airfoil # as the Pattern Master? I had to go threw and locate each rib and pair them up with PM ; number them up, for each wing half panel so I could build the wing. Again, no marking ... lol And as I can remember, they didn't have "exactly" the shape - curve, top and bottom. It's not a semi like you'd think, but not quite a full on full symmetrical. As I remember. Leading edge has the same shape / sweep on the top and the bottom. Bottom is curved in shape. Just not as much as the top. It's not like a semi; curved sweeping LE top and bottom... with the bottom leading to a more or less slightly "flattened" bottom side... then gently sweeping back up to the TE. Not sure of the NACA # it may have.. but I could look it up ( if it's not stated somewhere in the print, manual or box) What I will do heggen if your interested, is take a few pics of the P Master print and load them up on here. They will be separate portions - like 4 photos, but clear enough to make out and compare. I'll also do the manual. But I'll have to do pages. Give me a little time. I will get to doing that when I get a chance. Ken |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
I look forward to those pics Heggen. Thad be great! A question I have though when you mention the rudder doesn't continue down to the bottom
of the fuse, like it does with the P Master, Is that stab air foiled w/ ribs? Or is it framed up with like 1/4"x1/4" sq. stock and sheeted? I'm really curious on that ? Pondering and trying to figure out the evolution of the different wings; tapering versus non tapering air foil shapes used, that the Viscount and P Master share. I find it an interesting concept. Kind of shows the evolution of the competing pattern planes and what their type of flying and styles were, with attempts and advantages being made towards others, that were brought forth back then. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
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Here's few photos of the print, manual and supplement showing wing jig const and an exploded view of wing framing ... I'm not a photographer. Best I can get.
These are kind of like the Dead Sea Scrolls to myself. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
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Few more pics of the print, manual and supplement showing the exploded wing const and dihedral jig
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RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
Ribs are being cut. I do it the old fashioned, satisfying way - a 1/6" plywood template with sandpaper glued to the back and a # 11 Xacto blade on a cutting mat. Oh, and the TV is on. Don't expect frequent posting as this is a "do as can do" project. I still have to finish the Byron Christen Eagle and the Sheber 1/3 scale Pitts among other more important things in life.
The plans I have are direct copies from the originals from deBolt. They include pictures of the finished plane for color scheme reference. The build will be simple as it is soooo basic in design. The plans are more than adequate. The airfoil is the 65015 and the stab is symetrical as on the PM. I might change the rudder to go to the bottom of the fuse as on the PM but I don't see much else that would need changing. The dihedral could be cut in half but then the look would be altered. The negative thing with a lot of dihedral is that rudder then rolls the airplane instead of yawing it. My Goldberg Skylark 56 has a lot of dihedral and that is troublesome when trying to steer into a crosswind landing. Ah nuts! I think I will just build it stock and fly it like it was in the 60's. How else can one relive that era correctly. Thanks for all the effort on the pictures. You can relax now. I am on the build and will periodically be posting progress. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
Thanks guys for takeing the time to post pics as you go. Great job on your build Hab! I'll keep checking back to look for your progress heggen. Glad to see this one revived.......Gene;)
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RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
Thanks ... I looked for build threads or related on this one. Unsuccessful, couldn't come up with any. Found a few links for kits still around for sale....in the hands of
kit collectors. Bout it though. Glad I could spark a little enthusiasm in those that know this one. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
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As promised here is the start of a build thread regarding the deBolt Viscount. Perhaps I should have started a new thread for the Viscount but it blends in with the Pattern Master so here it will be. Bare with my inexperience with this process. I will try to be informative in the build documentation, but I am not going to go overboard with every step in the process.
I do not have a lot of background regarding the Viscount. I am just happy to get a set of plans. Perhaps others can contribute as we go along as to what they know of this airplane. I am just as curious as anyone else. For me, it is merely a model that I built about 48 years ago about 4 years into my R/C hobby addiction. I thought it was a beautiful airplane and unfortunately was not able to get it more than 100 feet from its take-off point before it crashed. It was too much airplane with too little experience on my part. Thankfully my flying skills have developed over ther past years and I expect success with flying the Viscount that I am building now. As I stated earlier, I am going to build it as shown on the plans with only minor modifications to internal structure here and there. The nose gear was a deBolt designed unit that fit on the bottom of the nose. I do not have that unit anymore. It disappeared with the wreckage of the first Viscount. Instead, I will install the typical nylon block on the firewall and a nose gear wire. The original plans for the Viscount showed two different radio installations. One was the multi-channel reed version and the other was the new Space Control proportional. Wow! It was some advanced stuff back then. I will be installing a modern 2.4 Hitec receiver with probably an OS 46 for the engine. For me, this is going to be fun as I love building and flying the airplanes which I wished I could have had 45 - 50 years ago. There are many and I will probably never run out of that next airplane to build that I wished I could have had back then. Do airplanes like the Blackwell Raider 10, Top Flite Orion and Taurus, deBolt Acrobat, Jenny, and Champ mean anything to anyone else? Eventually, they will all be on my built and flown list. Now, the Viscount. Every build journey for me starts with rib templates made of 1/16" plywood. Then it is on to cutting out the required number of ribs and cutting spars to size. I transfer spar location and rib spacing onto a piece of paper (blank newspaper stock) and the build gets started. I love the sight of balsa sheets and sticks taking the shape of an obect that eventually will take to the air. I hope you enjoy this build as much as I know I will. Attached are the pictures of the first steps accomplished so far. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
Heggen, that's great! No need to start another thread. Like you said, they both share the same
parameters, besides minor changes. Same plane. This is the place to post. Look forward to reading what you post and show for your build. Wish I could of found a build thread on the P-Master before I started. Tried for another today (flight). Man, it's blowing a little bit to much for me / P Master. Watched as another flew a 22lb Extra 300. He was even having a little bit of a time with it getting tossed. I didn't want chance it. Some day I'll manage to get a video, if the weather / winds ever calm down and I can get some one to shoot for me. |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
Ken, heggen....
Fantastic subject to model! Thank you very much for posting this. It would be great to fly more of this genre in organized events! heggen- we should talk! You aren't that far from me at all. It would be great to see these airplanes, the Sunf Fli's, Daddy Rabbits, etc doing what they do best... Only being held true to outline. Brian |
RE: Hal DeBolt's / Midwest Pattern Master
I am glad to see some interest in the Viscount. It is good incentive for me to follow through with a build to fly thread. Other projects are going to have to be set aside for a bit.
The left wing panel is framed and LE and TE sheeting is on. Will start the right wing panel tomorrow. Also, a small correction. I stated there was two different radio installations shown on the plans. Well, no. There is only one with a ten channel reed set up with Don Steeb servos. Don't remember where I saw the Space Control set up on a classic model. So, stay tuned. There is more to come. In the mean time get into the shop and build something. |
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