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Banshee
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Hello,</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Firstly, I’d like to thank all of you who have contributed to this forum.I’ve done much reading here, and learned a lot.It is very much appreciated.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">I’m fairly well along on the Banshee, and have some time now to be able to post some photos, as well as a few specifics regarding any deviations from the plans that I’ve incorporated.This is actually my second Banshee, but the first was built over 30 years ago, and nearly 30 years passed since I’ve pick up the hobby again.My most vivid memory of the first Banshee is aileron flutter……. one of those things that stick with you.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">A short kit was obtained from Eureka Aircraft, but the desire to use barn door ailerons (see above) steered me to cutting ribs based on the original design as documented in the Flying Models plans.Ribs were drawn and cut using Profili software.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">
The original airfoil, at approximatley 13%, is a bit thicker than the J&J plans. Please feel free to jump in. Doug</div> |
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Dave Brown retracts are installed.In an attempt to get a bargain, I purchased an older Airtronics Retract servo.Hey, it was $10!……however.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The servo rotates about 190 degrees, and when used on the DB retracts, will rotate past the point of locking the legs in place.So a Futaba gets the job.Installation of the main gear was fairly straight forward.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Standard Digital JR servos just fit into the wing completely enclosed.</div>
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RE: Banshee
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The DB nose wheel retract did require that plywood stand-offs had to be attached to the rear of the firewall. A front bracket on the nose wheel extends past themounting plane, preventing a flush fit to the firewall. I suspect that the bracket is just not bent at asharp enough angle, as a replacement backet that was sent to me exhibited the same issue.
Anotherfall back to theFlyingModels plans was the use of angleddowels for thefront of the wing. Sincethe nosewheelcutout removed the center section of the bulkhead, two dowels seem to be required. With the mid-wing design, I suspect that straight dowels will eventually go oblong with the wing being removed with a downward motion before they can be pulled rearward. |
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Very nice workmanship Doug. What Banshee variations are out there? You mentioned Eureka, FM and other sources? I have the FM plans somewhere in my stash. </p> Several years ago, Jersey Jim was at an airshow at our local flying strip and put on a demo that rivaled the full size aerobatics. The crowd loved it. IIRC, Jim was using a Proline radio, Rom-Air retracts and a Webra Blackhead .61.</p> |
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Regarding Banshee variations, from what I understand, the Eureka short kit is a exact replication of the original kit produced by J&J Industries in the early '70s. In comparing the J&J plans to the FM plans, two things jump out at me; 1) a difference in the airfoil, and 2) the length of the fuselage being longer from the leading edge bulkhead to the nose on the J&Jkit. I would speculate that the airfoil was changed on the J&J kit to allow for "standard" strip aileron stock to be used in the kit (the thicker airfoil on the FM plans does not transition into what I found available for aileron stock), and, the longer nose on the J&J kit makes it easier to install the fuel tank and retracts. Actually, placing retracts and a fuel tank into the FM layout would probably cause me to develope a twitch. You got to see Jersey Jim put on a demo! Just too cool. I understand that he's capable of being quite the showman. I still have my ProLine single stick, but it will probably remain on the shelf a bit longer. Doug</p> |
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Prior to placing the top sheeting on the wing, both the bottom sheeting and the ribs were scored at the location of the aileron cut-out.With the top sheeting installed, the score marks were simply cut through, and the aileron snapped out.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Also, balsa blocks were installed in the wing for hinge attachment and for producing the concave shape for the military style hinges.All control surfaces are of the concave/convex configuration.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Additional block was installed for the angled wing dowels, and 1/16 shear webbing from the aileron servo inward, anda plywood dihedral brace was also included.</div>
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Very nice. I remember Jim Martin at bunches of meets in the early 70's.
I built 2 banshees back then. One from FM plans, one from the J&J kit. Both flew the same. Don't remember if there were any differences. |
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WEDJ, is the photo taken in the field the FM plans?
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">A couple of things on the Fuselage were done differently than indicated on the plans.Firstly, the top sheeting is called out as a piece of 3/8, and shows that the sheeting will require cross-grain saw cuts part way through the wood in order to facilitate bending to the top contour.I recall that this method, although allowing me to make the bend, did not necessarily make life that much easier, and created a lot of voids that filled with glue, making the final shaping that much more difficult.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">So….two pieces of 3/16” were used.This thickness made the bend easily, and produced a typical amount of glue for a laminate joint.As a bonus, you get the added strength of a laminate.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">In regards to the ¾ thick triangle stock longeron, I found these impossible to sufficiently bend to shape (and remain flat), even after soaking in water for 24 hours.However, these little darlings were ceremoniously split length wise.After cutting in this manner, installation was a nonevent.Of course once the second/top piece of the triangle stock is installed on top of the first, it’s a bit longer than the bottom piece, and doesn’t align perfectly, resulting in a few small gaps.However, these gaps are insignificant compared to the gaps from relieving with a Zona saw.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"> Finally, I did the majority of the fuselage shaping prior to putting the nose blocks on.This allowed the shape to be drawn on the firewall, and to be referenced during shaping.With the nose blocks on, it can be difficult to know how far into the fuselage has been sanded.A sanding fixture was used to bring the edges to 45 degrees.I found this helpful, as it gave me “something to sand to”, a point of reference, when making the final curve.The fixture shown was used from the firewall to the trailing edge location of the fuselage.</div> |
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ORIGINAL: DougC1 WEDJ, is the photo taken in the field the FM plans? Nice sanding jig, BTW. |
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Being a mid-wing, and with the retract servo and linkage mounted on the bottom of the wing, a removable belly pan is nearly a necessity.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">In regards to the rearward plate, an alignment plate with two dowels, and a 10-32 nut was mounted on the wing.The surface of the plate was eyeballed as being parallel with the centerline of the wing.This is to allow the belly pan to be removed perpendicular to the zero axis of the plane.If the alignment plate was attached flush to the rearward section of the wing, the pan would have to be removed in a reward direction because the dowels would be angled towards the rear; and that is not possible as the front of the pan would hang-up on the leading edge of the wing.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The pan has to be removable straight upward with this layout.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Both of the rear plates were clamped together and drilled with ¼” holes.Dowels were glued into the bottom plate, along with the nut, and then mounted to the wing.The top plate was then located and screwed on the bottom plate.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Drill the access hole for the 10-32 bolt into the belly pan.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Now it was just a matter of getting a ½” balsa block to fit over the plywood plate, with clearance holes for the dowels, and a slip fit with the sides of the pan.This balsa block is what will attach the plate with the holes onto the pan.Epoxy was applied to the balsa block, placed onto the exposed plate, and the pan aligned.The balsa block can be pressed down onto the plywood through the 10-32 access hole.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The front plate was done similarly.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><span style="font-size: xx-small">I hope the pictures help…………</span>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The canopy turned out to be significantly easier than I had anticipated.And although I make every attempt to not use CA adhesive, it made this assembly neat and strong.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Two templates for the canopy can be taken from the plans.The first is a profile former, which will form a “spine” on the center of the fuselage, and, the second template is the top of the canopy.After the former is traced from the plans, two adjustments are needed.The top of the former needs to have ¼” removed from the top, and 1/16” from the front.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The top is made from ¼” stock cut to shape, and its’ sides sanded to an angle such that when the canopy sides are installed, they will have some area that is flush to be glued.The profile former and the top are glued in place.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The canopy front and sides are made from four pieces of 1/16” balsa.The templates for the front section were made by taping paper to the former and top, slowly creasing the paper with a fingernail, and cutting away what doesn’t belong.Note the grain direction of the front pieces on the photos.The two front pieces were joined and the bottom edges feathered prior to gluing in place on the plane.A bit of water was used to encourage bending.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The two sides pieces were cut from templates.If I had do make these pieces again, I would run the grain vertically, rather than horizontally as shown in the photo.There is a slight concavity to the sides, and although it looks cool, it wasn’t what I intended, and will be difficult to finish both sides of the canopy evenly.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">A piece of tape marks the line where the sides need to be cut, and the bottom edges of the sides are also feathered.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">A judicious amount of filler, and done.</div>
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">I’ve got a bit of filling and sanding, pushrod installation, and general fussing to do and then she’ll be ready for glassing.The weight of the empty plane prior to finishing will be under 3 ½ pounds, and might just put me on target of under 7 ½ pounds auw.With the flying season in full swing, and some other commitments, I don’t know if there will be air under its’ wings this year or not.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Thanks for checking in.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Doug</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div>
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Looks like it's going 200mph just sitting there. Nice job.
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Beautiful work Doug! That front 3/4 view looks pretty mean, and fast.
David |
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Nice job on the canopy - It is part of the Banshee "signature"
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With snow on the ground, I guess it’s time to get back at it. Hope that everyone managed to get a few flights in this summer.
The servo’s, pushrods, and control horn bearing surfaces are installed. The control horn bearing surfaces are simply balsa inserts place with the grain parallel with the horn screws. The inserts are then hardened with thin CA. Elevator and rudder servos are installed, but I’m wondering if a metal gear servo might be best on the rudder/nose wheel. Currently it’s just a standard JR digital. It isn’t so much damage to the gear train that concerns me, as it is having a damaged servo pulling excess current, and not being aware of it. I’ll be flying from a grass field, but it probably rates an 8 out 10 as far as roughness. Thoughts? The rudder itself is nearly contest grade balsa, which is nice and light, but I thought it best to inlay two pieces of carbon fiber rod. They are epoxyed in place, and attached to the control horn bearing surface. |
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outstanding craftsmanship. very neat. thanks for sharing.
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You won't need special servos in any part of the airplane. Remember, the airplane was first flown when servos were rated at about 3-4 inch-pounds of torque, which is 48-64 ounce-inches of torque. Nosegear steering and rudder were almost aways controlled from the same servo. Only five servos were usually found inside those models: one each for ailerons, elevator, rudder/nosegear steering, throttle, and retracts. Some people would add a sixth servo for fine-tuning the needle valve.
You could use four S-148 servos or equivalent and do OK, but a midrange servo , such as the S3102 would be nearly ideal for most vintage Pattern models. |
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Only five servos were usually found inside those models Ray |
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That's right. Four servos for fixed gear, five servos with retracts (when used).
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ORIGINAL: Bax That's right. Four servos for fixed gear, five servos with retracts (when used). I see that you have recommended a Metal Gear Servo with the S3102. I'm uncertain what the "weak link" is in a servo that is subject to cyclic shock, as I suspect would be the case with a nose wheel. But I think that the simplest/cheapest/lightest way to mitigate a failure would be to use a Metal Gear Servo. I think I'll get one. My primary reason for using seperate aileron servos was not for torque purposes, but to allow for programming differential into this bird if need be. Secondarily was the use of shorter pushrods to reduce any potential flex. Ray, I wish you'd let me know earlier about the ProLine servos. I could have saved a couple of bucks .............;) Doug |
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Sorry Bax - misread your post.
Doug - I envy you having a ProLine. I always wanted one after fondling Bob Violett's transmitter (pardon [X(]) at the 1972 Pylon W/Cs. Those sticks were works of art. I don't think ProLine were ever distributed in the UK. Even if they had been the cost would probably have been prohibitive although I did briefly use a (second hand) Kraft Gold Medal set. Ray |
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ORIGINAL: DougC1 I see that you have recommended a Metal Gear Servo with the S3102. I'm uncertain what the ''weak link'' is in a servo that is subject to cyclic shock, as I suspect would be the case with a nose wheel. But I think that the simplest/cheapest/lightest way to mitigate a failure would be to use a Metal Gear Servo. I think I'll get one. |
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Doug seeing your thread and the pictures sure brings back memories.
Here is my old Banshee from 1974 flying on a Rossi rear rotor 60 and rhom Air retracts. Great flying bird but in the end I fell in love with the Tiger Tail. The Proline radio brought back additional memories as this plane was flown using their open gimble single stick model. In fact I may still have a set of servo gears floating in the recesses of my "stuff". If you stay with the strip ailerons I would stiffen them with carbon veil to help insure that flutter doesnot start because of torsional weakness. |
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So far as rudder/nosewheel steering servos are concerned the nylon gear types are best. The plastic will absorb a lot more shock the a metal gear servo, and standard servos are fine, as Bax and RFJ allude. Use a yellow nyrod inner for the steering bit and any major shock will simply deflect the rod and leave the servo alone. My models (Atlas, Curare, Superstar, Sicroly etc) have only flown off grass and have been doing so for over five years with no servo problems at all. Consider to, that taxiing around the field is not the major part of model flying, and takeoffs and landings are all done with the nosewheel off the ground anyway, so there is little need for much steering, and very little wheel movement (left and right) is actually needed. You have probably seen trike models darting all over the field on takeoff and landing, a sure sign of way too much steering movement. Rudders steer airplanes, not wheels.
Evan, WB #12. |
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David,
Thanks for the compliment. Having built a few electrics, and needing to pay particular attention to weight with those planes, tight joints and minimal glue have nearly become a habit. Gremlin, What a cool color scheme on that Banshee of yours! It’s nearly a negative of its’ self! I have gone with the barn door ailerons. Although I won’t have anything to compare it to, I’m confident that they will work out fine. Jim Martin’s original had the barn doors, and I suspect that the strips were just a matter of ease of assembly, and, cost for the production J&J kit. Evan, Yup, that last sentence drives home the point. Not a lot of feedback to the servo from the nosewheel when properly set up. I really didn’t want to put a MG servo on the rudder; just trying to out-think myself…… A correctly laid out pushrod system should be sufficient. Thanks. |
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Doug, sorry for the poor photo quality but that is what you get when scanning a 35 year old photograph.
The color was a brilliant transparent blue epoxy made by leaching the dye out of Rit Dye using the K&B epoxy thinner and then putting the concentrated blue thinner in clear K&B epoxy and spraying it over a silver base coat. The bottom was left silver for high contrast in the rolls. Some days when the sun was right it flashed like a hooked marlin during the rolls. The barn door ailerons should be just fine. Are you using two servos? |
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Fiberglassing has commenced. I’m using Great Planes ¾ oz fiberglass, and Great Planes Finishing resin.
The resin is mixed 1 part resin, 1 part hardener, and 1 part Denatured alcohol. The alcohol and the hardener are combined and thoroughly mixed. The thinned hardener is then combined with the resin, mixed well, and allowed to sit for a few minutes. The cloth is laid in place, brushed down with a natural hair paintbrush (places a bit of static cling to the cloth), and a foam brush is used to apply the thinned resin. I start in the center of the section to be ‘glassed, and work my way outward with a light jabbing motion. This method applies a very thin coat of resin, and rarely induces a wrinkle. Generally, I like to have control over where the overlap seams are going to be, so I tend to place masking tape on the plane, and ‘glass just over the tape. Once the resin has dried, the raised edge created by the tape provides a good surface to sand/cut through the applied ‘glass. Although a bit more time is involved, I’ve found that having a straight line for the joint makes my life easier when feathering the seam (I know where it is….). Also, in tight locations, the seam can be cut/scored, and sanded lightly to remove the tape. This can allow for a butt joint with adjoining pieces, an advantage where swinging a sanding bar is difficult. Seams and edges are cut with 220 Wet/Dry, but most of the sanding is with 320 grit. The resin is thin enough so that minimal sanding is needed. Usually a couple of passes are made with a hair dryer to help the resin penetrate the glass and balsa The starting weight of the wing, less the ailerons and aileron servo covers, is 1.5 pounds (669 grams). We'll see where we end up. |
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looks great doug, not a lot of us glass the wings. glad to see it.
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Beautiful work Doug!! I Really like the masking tape trick for the straight line!! Very kewl..
I hope I'll get to this stage on some of my projects soon and have never done it before..I really appreciate you sharing the info and photos... I've about decided I'm going to glass and paint everything I've got except my Calypso which I'll just cover... Keep up the good work!! Have Fun.. Chuck |
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I’d like to start with a warning:
Do not operate Photo Software while under the influence of Over the Counter Cold Medicine, as you’ll probably delete half of your photos. So with that in mind, I’ll do the best I can……… The wheel wells have been ‘glassed. The photos show the strut recess being taped and ‘glassed. As far as the wheel wells themselves, I’ll try to describe as best I can. -Cut a paper template of the bottom of the well, and of the sidewalls. The sidewall template should be accurate in circumference, but intentionally cut oversized in length (depth). This extra length will allow overhang out of the wells. -Sandwich a piece of fiberglass between two pieces of paper. Smooth the fiberglass, and try to straighten the weave prior to placing the top piece of paper. -Staple the paper/fiberglass/paper together around the edges. The staples should be placed just to the outside perimeter of the paper template of the piece that is to be cut (in this case, either the bottom of the well, or the sidewalls). -Tape the template on the sandwich with clear tape. -Cut out the fiberglass, using the template as a guide. The bottom of the wells was fairly simple; drop the fiberglass in, and slowly apply the resin. The foam brush needs to stay put for several seconds so as to allow the resin to penetrate through to the balsa, and not lift off when removing the brush. This can be particularly troublesome on the sidewalls. The bottom of the wing had masking tape covering the wheel well, and then the tape was cut to expose the well, using the sidewall as a guide. The first sidewall went smoothly, however, the amount of time I consumed waiting for the resin to penetrate the first sidewall allowed the resin to thicken enough that the glass would lift when ‘glassing the second one. Next time, I’ll make a second batch of resin. With the top of the wing and the wheel wells glassed with one coat, I’ve added 1.6oz thus far. Oh yeah, if using a foam brush, you can save a few bucks by simply making your own with a hunk of foam and some tape. Sorry for the lack of photos. You know you’re getting old when Children’s Dimetapp and computers don’t mix……….. |
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ORIGINAL: DougC1 I’d like to start with a warning: Do not operate Photo Software while under the influence of Over the Counter Cold Medicine, as you’ll probably delete half of your photos. So with that in mind, I’ll do the best I can……… The wheel wells have been ‘glassed. The photos show the strut recess being taped and ‘glassed. As far as the wheel wells themselves, I’ll try to describe as best I can. -Cut a paper template of the bottom of the well, and of the sidewalls. The sidewall template should be accurate in circumference, but intentionally cut oversized in length (depth). This extra length will allow overhang out of the wells. -Sandwich a piece of fiberglass between two pieces of paper. Smooth the fiberglass, and try to straighten the weave prior to placing the top piece of paper. -Staple the paper/fiberglass/paper together around the edges. The staples should be placed just to the outside perimeter of the paper template of the piece that is to be cut (in this case, either the bottom of the well, or the sidewalls). -Tape the template on the sandwich with clear tape. -Cut out the fiberglass, using the template as a guide. The bottom of the wells was fairly simple; drop the fiberglass in, and slowly apply the resin. The foam brush needs to stay put for several seconds so as to allow the resin to penetrate through to the balsa, and not lift off when removing the brush. This can be particularly troublesome on the sidewalls. The bottom of the wing had masking tape covering the wheel well, and then the tape was cut to expose the well, using the sidewall as a guide. The first sidewall went smoothly, however, the amount of time I consumed waiting for the resin to penetrate the first sidewall allowed the resin to thicken enough that the glass would lift when ‘glassing the second one. Next time, I’ll make a second batch of resin. With the top of the wing and the wheel wells glassed with one coat, I’ve added 1.6oz thus far. Oh yeah, if using a foam brush, you can save a few bucks by simply making your own with a hunk of foam and some tape. Sorry for the lack of photos. You know you’re getting old when Children’s Dimetapp and computers don’t mix……….. I first saw the Banshee 38 years ago. Jim Martin flew the thing at an astounding pace practicing for the Nats. I was too young and shy to go up and talk to him. Fast forward 38 years....I met up with him just this Fall at his home field at the urging of Ed Alt who belong to that club. All I can say is a really nice man and full of ideas. I found out that he is of Armenian dissent just like me. Who knew! Jim has been very gracious to me and invited me to join him anytime. I will probably join that club. Who knows I may get him to fly real pattern models again in addition to the IMAC types he flies now. He did share that he is planning to build an electric Banshee and we talked some about making it lighter. Good luck with yours Doug Matt Kebabjian |
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ORIGINAL: DougC1 The DB nose wheel retract did require that plywood stand-offs had to be attached to the rear of the firewall. A front bracket on the nose wheel extends past the mounting plane, preventing a flush fit to the firewall. I suspect that the bracket is just not bent at a sharp enough angle, as a replacement backet that was sent to me exhibited the same issue. Another fall back to the Flying Models plans was the use of angled dowels for the front of the wing. Since the nosewheel cutout removed the center section of the bulkhead, two dowels seem to be required. With the mid-wing design, I suspect that straight dowels will eventually go oblong with the wing being removed with a downward motion before they can be pulled rearward. I'm glad that you pointed out the DB retract protrusion problem (into the back of the firewall). I have a new set of DB retracts and a used set of Rhoms that I have accumulated. The belly mount nose gear of the Rom-Air gear will be tons easier to mount, just at a cursory glance. I can't say that the Rom-Airs will work any better or be more reliable than the DB Products retracts, which will surely be a lighter set up. That carries some weight too. Nice job. Keep up the good work. Ed Cregger |
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ORIGINAL: DougC1 Regarding Banshee variations, from what I understand, the Eureka short kit is a exact replication of the original kit produced by J&J Industries in the early '70s. In comparing the J&J plans to the FM plans, two things jump out at me; 1) a difference in the airfoil, and 2) the length of the fuselage being longer from the leading edge bulkhead to the nose on the J&J kit. I would speculate that the airfoil was changed on the J&J kit to allow for ''standard'' strip aileron stock to be used in the kit (the thicker airfoil on the FM plans does not transition into what I found available for aileron stock), and, the longer nose on the J&J kit makes it easier to install the fuel tank and retracts. Actually, placing retracts and a fuel tank into the FM layout would probably cause me to develope a twitch. You got to see Jersey Jim put on a demo! Just too cool. I understand that he's capable of being quite the showman. I still have my ProLine single stick, but it will probably remain on the shelf a bit longer. Doug</p> I have built wood kits, fiberglass and foam and have even designed my own scratch built models from time to time. I never found the hobbyshop's aileron stock to be of any use, and always ended up buying thick sheets of balsawood and drawing up the ailerons on the rectangular sheets. I'd rough out the ailerons using my little Dremel Table Saw. After that it was whittling and sanding to get them to shape. Make two identical ailerons was tough at times, but I did it. I didn't have a choice. The aileron stock available at the hobbyshop was always too small in the places where it counted. Had I to do it all again today, I would make built-up ailerons instead of using heavy sheets of solid balsa, sawn, cut and sanded to shape. I saw Jersey Jim Martin flying exhibition flights at the Lakehurst Naval Air Station in NJ. He was a master showman and an unbelieveably good pilot. That was back in 1970 or 71. Ed Cregger |
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With all of you guys having had to opportunity to either meet, or see Jim Martin fly, I’m beginning to think that living in New England all of my life thus far has kept me too sheltered. I’ve really got to make an effort to get to a SPA event this summer, as I must confess that I’ve never been to any sort of competitive event.
Here is the build article from Flying Models. http://www.trentonrcflyers.com/patte...es/banshee.pdf It’s an informative, and often humorous read. Although Google yielded no results, Jim’s reference to “Snoopy’s Institute of Dog House Design”, leads me to believe that he is a degreed Aeronautical Engineer. It also seems that he designed, built, and flew at least two iteration of the aircraft before settling on the final plane. In my opinion, the Banshee is a very purposeful design, from the amount of fuselage side area, the lifting profile of the fuselage, the canopy placement, to the inverted “V” rudder. Matt, I’m pleased to know that Jim is still active, and by your location, he might still be “Jersey” Jim! I had started toying with an electric Banshee. I’d reduced it to a 50” wing to keep the battery cost down, and had the foam core cut. Hope to get back to it at some point. Ed, There are a few other annoyances with the DB retracts, such as the mounting plates on the mains aren’t parallel/flat, and several of the plastic standoff bosses were crushed during assembly. Nothing that can’t be rectified, but annoying nonetheless. I’ve read many of your posts over the years; always informative and insightful. Thanks for checking in. Doug |
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I read with great pleasure the Banshee article, but one question please - was it common to use a diamond shape airfoil for elevator? Never heard that before....
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Jim Kirkland used a diamond airfoil stab on several of his designs too.
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RE: Banshee
ORIGINAL: speed-panzer I read with great pleasure the Banshee article, but one question please - was it common to use a diamond shape airfoil for elevator? Never heard that before.... Here is an explaination; http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7769135 I'm sure that there are others here that can provide additional insight beyond my limited knowledge. |
RE: Banshee
Thanks, this was good source of information. It seems I am born too late to have ever witnessed a diamond airfoiled stab on some pattern plane. For me there has always been the "exponential" function doing the trick.
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RE: Banshee
1 Attachment(s)
Diamond airfoil stab. This is the Vertigo II. Klxmaster is doing a build thread on one.
Crank |
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